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Old 03-08-2016, 04:32 PM   #1
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Refrigerator won't work

Hey fellow rv'ers I have a 2006 Monaco Camelot and I am new to rving. When I bought the unit used in November of 2015 the refigerator worked fine but I am traveling in Florida and I can't get the thing to run. The LED panel on the unit will not light up and I have checked fuses, made sure the plugs in the back are in, house batteries are on, and I am on 50 service here at the campsite. I had it winterized by the dealer since I have seen it work. Any ideas??
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Old 03-08-2016, 06:36 PM   #2
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try 110 volt first then go check fridge lights ....disconnect from 110v then go check fridge lights... does it work on gas?
not sure how old of post but have you got this sorted out yet?

also is it plugged in to 110volt at back of fridge? open exterior vent and check

also there should be a fuse panel inside your coach with 12v fuses and it should be located near the 110volt breakers..
what make and model fridge?


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Old 03-08-2016, 06:43 PM   #3
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it is possible that the LED panel is 12 volt as in My Knight

did you hit the salesman switch by accident do you have 12v to other lights, seat controls.
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:09 PM   #4
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On my 2005 the 12 volt for the refer is fused thru the fuse box in the bedroom. It does not go thru the salesman switch solenoid. Want to know how I figured this out? About the only thing that still worked when the solenoid failed.
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:41 PM   #5
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The fridge is a Norcold four door. I do not see a fuse for the fridge in the fuse panel by the breakers at the back interior wall. Yes a think the controls are 12volt according to the manual. Is this thru a fuse not labeled refer?
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:42 PM   #6
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Yes the lights in the unit, seat controls all work.
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:44 PM   #7
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Can't check the fridge for LP gas operation because the regulator valve will not let gas thru. No I have not resolved.
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:13 PM   #8
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The best way is to trouble shoot from the back of fridge till you find the problem. Start with a multimeter and measure the input voltage at the fridge for both 12 volt Dc and the 120 volt AC. If you have power then start working on the fridge-no power then start working your way back to the source of 12 and 120 volts.
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:49 PM   #9
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Fridge uses 12V DC to operate on AC Electric or Propane. 12V DC is source of power for ALL controls, panel lights and interior light
No 12V DC --------no workie


Open outside access panel and check for 12V DC at terminal block
No 12V then fuse for fridge in DC Dist Panel is blown
YES 12V DC at terminal then check if 12V is coming out of block going to control module (Recall Box LED light ON or temp sensor on stack tripped..NO DC to module)
YES 12V out of terminal block then need to remove cover and check the DC fuse (F1 position) on circuit board (either 3A or 5A auto blade type fuse depending on serial # of your fridge)
Blown fuse..short on circuit board or controls

Unable to get LP solenoid to open........LP Detector tripped?
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Old 03-09-2016, 01:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mb2875 View Post
The fridge is a Norcold four door. I do not see a fuse for the fridge in the fuse panel by the breakers at the back interior wall. Yes a think the controls are 12volt according to the manual. Is this thru a fuse not labeled refer?
There has to be in a cupboard a box of some sort you can pull the cover off to gain access to 12v spade fuses
ATC type ? That's your problem I'm betting!
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:42 AM   #11
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Thanks for all the replies!! I don't have a meter with me and I will need to purchase one. I think this problem may be better repaired by the warranty I have purchased and I am leaving in a few days so I can get along without the fridge. This is my first request for help on this forum and I am amazed by the response and the number of folks who are willing to help. I will try to help in the same as I gain more experience. You guys are the best!!
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:01 AM   #12
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Update

Update on the above issue-After some more research I found that there was a recall on this unit and a thermal overload module was retrofitted on these units. Mine appears to have been done because of the added looking wiring going to it and the label that says "retrofit thermal switch". I bypassed this and I have power back to my control panel and the unit is working fine. Looks like I may need a need thermal switch unit. Thanks for all your help!!
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:46 PM   #13
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Thanks for the update, it's always good to know the resolution to a problem.
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