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03-20-2018, 11:46 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 691
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Remove Unused Dash A/C Compressor Belt?
Hello All,
The dash air on our 2003 Windsor works very poorly at best. When we need a/c when travelling we just run the roof air.
Would there be any problem with removing the a/c compressor belt? We don't need or use the dash air anyway.
Are there any pros or cons to removing the a/c compressor belt? It is a separate belt to the serpentine belt.
Irishguy
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03-21-2018, 12:09 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: anywhere U.S.A, Currently back home in Thailand!
Posts: 4,245
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__________________
Retired, and "Always on Holiday!"
1996 Monaco Windsor 38PB, "Mona" 275 HP., 8.3 Cummins, 3060 Allison 6 speed, 2001 PT Cruiser, "Bailey"
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03-21-2018, 06:50 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishguy
Hello All,
The dash air on our 2003 Windsor works very poorly at best. When we need a/c when travelling we just run the roof air.
Would there be any problem with removing the a/c compressor belt? We don't need or use the dash air anyway.
Are there any pros or cons to removing the a/c compressor belt? It is a separate belt to the serpentine belt.
Irishguy
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As far as you poor a/c cooling from your front chassis a/c?
Have you shut off the water going thru the heater core?
The water control valve for the heater core not shutting off the hot water flow thu the heater core is a common problem reported here @ iRV2 and if the problem it will diminish the a/c cooling effect to almost nothing in many cases.
You may want to try that first ..it's a fairly common problem and there some very easy and cheap work around's if that is the problem.
Clamp off one of the coolant lines to the heater core so that no water can flow thu it. Then take for a test drive and see if this fixes your a/c poor performance issue.
If so? buy a $ 3.99 ball valve shut off valve and install it ..... and shut the water flow off in the summer months
This only applies assuming that the a/c is charged correctly and that the other system components are functioning as designed.
Without seeing you're belt setup it's hard to say.... but most likely no problem with removing the belt.
That said.... I also see no benefit to removing the belt ...but that can be debated at length Im sure.
Happy Trails
__________________
2004 HR Navagator 500 ISM
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03-21-2018, 08:04 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobRoy
I also see no benefit to removing the belt ...but that can be debated at length Im sure.Happy Trails
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No reason to spin the compressor bearing if it isn't used.
For a handy person A/C repairs are relatively inexpensive but some climates don't justify the expense.
__________________
2014 Newell 2020P 45'8" ISX 600 HP
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03-21-2018, 01:25 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 691
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Thanks all,
It would be nice to have working a/c at the dash but not necessary. When the sun is blasting through that big windshield while travelling down the highway it is nice to supplement the roof air but doesn't happen that often.
I will have to see if there is a shutoff for the heater core. I have never thought to look or even consider that issue. Not quite sure where to look though.
Other wise I will probably just remove the belt.
Irishguy
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03-21-2018, 02:11 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 6,579
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I had to install a vacuum operated hot water shutoff on our Windsor. The original one just would not stop the hot coolant flow.
__________________
97 Monaco Windsor- Sold
07 Monaco Executive McKinley- Sold
04 Monaco Signature Chateau IV
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03-23-2018, 01:52 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,804
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Hi Irishguy; I agree with RobRoy that a look into the blending valve on the firewall in the generator compartment should be inspected. I had mine stick in the full open position letting hot coolant be run through the heater core all the time. With the engine up to full temp., run your heat control up to full hot and feel the hoses going to the heater core. Now turn temp all the way down to cold. Wait a few minutes and fell hoses again. Should be much cooler. If not, I would say that the coolant blend valve is stuck in the full open position and this would make the dash A/C seem not to be cooling properly. My dash A/C works great on my 01 Windsor. Also one thing that I have found to increase the cooling of the dash A/C is to run it in the Max A/C position. This position closes the door on the plenum so out side air is not introduced into the coach. I find that this setting cools better. I have known for years that dash A/C systems should always be exercised once a month for at least 10 minutes to keep the component's of the system lubricated as well as the O rings. A lot of systems loose refrigerant due to being inactive. I have done this since owning my first vehicle that had A/C with good results over the last 50+ years. As to your question, if you want to remove the belt, go for it. Sorry for the long post. Just wanted to let others know what has worked for me. Everyone have a great weekend!
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03-23-2018, 02:43 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Naples, Florida & Cape Cod, Ma,
Posts: 547
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Have you charged the A/C dryer, this is the main cause for poor dash air performance.
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03-24-2018, 11:09 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8.3Oilbuner
Hi Irishguy; I agree with RobRoy that a look into the blending valve on the firewall in the generator compartment should be inspected. I had mine stick in the full open position letting hot coolant be run through the heater core all the time. With the engine up to full temp., run your heat control up to full hot and feel the hoses going to the heater core. Now turn temp all the way down to cold. Wait a few minutes and fell hoses again. Should be much cooler. If not, I would say that the coolant blend valve is stuck in the full open position and this would make the dash A/C seem not to be cooling properly. My dash A/C works great on my 01 Windsor. Also one thing that I have found to increase the cooling of the dash A/C is to run it in the Max A/C position. This position closes the door on the plenum so out side air is not introduced into the coach. I find that this setting cools better. I have known for years that dash A/C systems should always be exercised once a month for at least 10 minutes to keep the component's of the system lubricated as well as the O rings. A lot of systems loose refrigerant due to being inactive. I have done this since owning my first vehicle that had A/C with good results over the last 50+ years. As to your question, if you want to remove the belt, go for it. Sorry for the long post. Just wanted to let others know what has worked for me. Everyone have a great weekend!
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I'm definitely going to check that out...that would be an easy fix if that is the issue. Unfortunately our MH is currently surrounded by a 5 foot snow bank. The March weather in Western Canada has not been kind this year. Hopefully it smartens up as we are planning on a two week trip later next month.
Irishguy
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03-24-2018, 11:13 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rburian
Have you charged the A/C dryer, this is the main cause for poor dash air performance.
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That is something I haven't done. We bought our MH two years ago and the previous owner said the dash a/c didn't work. I don't want to spend too much money and time on it but may try that route.
Irishguy
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03-24-2018, 02:37 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishguy
That is something I haven't done. We bought our MH two years ago and the previous owner said the dash a/c didn't work. I don't want to spend too much money and time on it but may try that route.
Irishguy
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In fifty years of dealing with mobil a/c I've yet to see the receiver dryer as a "Common" cause of a/c major performance issues ...not that the receiver dryer should not be changed any time the a/c is opened ...because it should.
But I myself have never seen it be a major measurable issue........ unlike the water control valve that when it fails it REALLY hinders the a/c performance and has a very high failure rate as reported here at iRV2
Im not looking for an argument just trying to see you head down a logical path. Assuming the rest of your a/c is working correctly you can take a pair of these and pinch off a heater hose take you steed for a ride and know if the water control valve is leaking and is your problem.
Or you can evacuate you a/c syatem replace the receiver dryer pull the system into a vacuum the re-charge the a/c system and see if it repaired?...your choice.
You probably have a pair of wood clamps lying around the house so ...it doesn't get any simpler and cheaper to check. The other option is at best a guess a pricey as in comparison.
Also something important that hasn't been mentioned here ( or I didnt see it) is that when you by-pass your a/c ( via cutting the belt off or otherwise) you lose the de-humidifying effect when in the defrost mode ....... in most cases not a issue, but once in that right climate conditions and trying to navigate thu the mess on your windshield you will wish you had the system working correctly ......because reaching to wipe off the windshied on your car while driving is one thing..............good luck reaching that windshied on your coach while driving .
Happy Hunting
" I'll take bad water control valve for $100.00 Alex "
__________________
2004 HR Navagator 500 ISM
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03-24-2018, 04:12 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 691
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Thanks RobRoy, I am a fan of trying the simple and easy first so will try that.
I definitely don't want to lose the dehumidifying for the window defrost. Up here in Canada that is something one may need.
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03-24-2018, 04:19 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Naples, Florida & Cape Cod, Ma,
Posts: 547
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I still would check the ac dryer, two of my MH, had poor dash ac, after changing the dryer, major improvement. It’s not an expensive repair.
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03-26-2018, 04:52 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 32
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I agree with RobRoy, also a lot of AC/Heating systems are designed to operate together ,when in the defrost mode it is designed to run Ac compressor to draw the moisture out of the air so windows do not fog up. Also in this operation the AC compressor runs and keeps the seals lubricated to help prevent losing Freon in the winter or so it goes for newer model cars and trucks. MOTOR HOMES ????? The receiver/dryer takes the moisture out of the freon and should be replaced if system is opened up. RobRoy can corret me if I left anything out. thanks keeney
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