Replacing fuel filters

[stillthinkin]

I used to drive a 2002 Expedition with a 300 HP Cummins that had the same problems on hills / under a load. I changed filters like you and after another year the engine went into derate mode - lucky for me I was near a Cummins Service Center.
Turns out the problem all along was a failing high pressure fuel pump. I had the lift pump changed first because it was much cheaper but the real problem was the $2,100 fuel pump.

After the fuel pump change no more hiccups under a load.

Mark

[RobRoy]

Something else to consider to measure Fuel Filter life expectancy from Racor

https://www.google.com/search?q=RACO...50621012573692

[TwelveVolt]

Originally Posted by Jeff753

I'd love to get more details on the part list for this addition if you have any notes. I have both a primary and secondary. Would I install two gauges?

The idea of a two (or more) filter system is to remove consecutively smaller particles with each filter. For example, a 10 micron would remove everything larger than 10 microns, followed by a 2 micron to remove everything in the 2 to 10 micron range. Similar to the way gravel is sifted into size categories using consecutively finer screens. Because the gauge shows the status of the first (easy to change) filter, the approach I am using is to do all the filtering with a 2 micron cartridge in the first filter (Racor). I know the second filter will never clog, so no need to monitor it.

The first step was to call Racor to verify which size was suitable for my engine. The 500fg is rated at 60GPH which matched my Cummins 330HP. The 900fg is 90GPH. Note that this is not how much fuel you use in an hour, but the maximum flow rate you need when climbing a mountain.

http://racorstore.com/racor-500fg10-...separator.html

http://racorstore.com/racor-900fh10-...separator.html

The filter housing usually shows a micron rating in the description, but that is just the cartridge that comes with it. The cartridges come in 2, 10 and 30 micron. I always use the Racor brand 2 micron, but when I ran out of filters due to a tank of dirty fuel, I discovered that other manufacturers make equivalents that are available at many auto parts stores. The problem is that most of the other brands do not clearly state the micron spec on the product. Each Racor cartridge comes with an O ring and gasket. I replace these ever third or fourth filter change, or if they look worn.

https://www.amazon.com/ELEMENT-Repla...s=Racor+filter

The second step was to check the size of the threaded fittings that connected the fuel hoses to my existing filter housing. I ordered the 500fg housing plus the appropriately sized in and out fittings. Note that these are special fittings with an O ring on the Racor side.

The simplest solution for a gauge is the Racor model pictured in an earlier post that screws into the top of the T handle. Just verify that it matches the filter housing you chose.

http://racorstore.com/racor-rk23284-...ne-series.html

There are some knock-offs on Amazon at half the price listed as "Racor 500fg equivalent", but I know nothing about their quality.

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by TwelveVolt

The idea of a two (or more) filter system is to remove consecutively smaller particles with each filter. For example, a 10 micron would remove everything larger than 10 microns, followed by a 2 micron to remove everything in the 2 to 10 micron range. Similar to the way gravel is sifted into size categories using consecutively finer screens. Because the gauge shows the status of the first (easy to change) filter, the approach I am using is to do all the filtering with a 2 micron cartridge in the first filter (Racor). I know the second filter will never clog, so no need to monitor it.

The first step was to call Racor to verify which size was suitable for my engine. The 500fg is rated at 60GPH which matched my Cummins 330HP. The 900fg is 90GPH. Note that this is not how much fuel you use in an hour, but the maximum flow rate you need when climbing a mountain.

RACOR 500FG10 FG FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPARATOR

RACOR 900FH10 FG-FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPARATOR

The filter housing usually shows a micron rating in the description, but that is just the cartridge that comes with it. The cartridges come in 2, 10 and 30 micron. I always use the Racor brand 2 micron, but when I ran out of filters due to a tank of dirty fuel, I discovered that other manufacturers make equivalents that are available at many auto parts stores. The problem is that most of the other brands do not clearly state the micron spec on the product. Each Racor cartridge comes with an O ring and gasket. I replace these ever third or fourth filter change, or if they look worn.

https://www.amazon.com/ELEMENT-Repla...s=Racor+filter

The second step was to check the size of the threaded fittings that connected the fuel hoses to my existing filter housing. I ordered the 500fg housing plus the appropriately sized in and out fittings. Note that these are special fittings with an O ring on the Racor side.

The simplest solution for a gauge is the Racor model pictured in an earlier post that screws into the top of the T handle. Just verify that it matches the filter housing you chose.

RK 23284 Stainless T-handle vacuum gauge Kit for all Turbine Series

There are some knock-offs on Amazon at half the price listed as "Racor 500fg equivalent", but I know nothing about their quality.

Nice post and thanks for sharing your information.

I just changed my older Racor filter with electric prime.... and on my unit, the prime pump has failed and the filter is pricey ( in comparison) and a hassle climbing under the coach to service it, where this one can be serviced from the above.

I like the 900 system that you show in your post for the ease of changing the filter from the top and also the cost of the cartridges.

What I'm trying to figure out is what you used for hose fittings on your new filter? The set up I looked at looks like it uses barbed push on hose type fittings and o-ring type seals at the filter housing side.

My current racor system uses large what I believe are referred to as " jic" fittings with pipe thread.

Also how that filter set up primed?

Yea I saw the Chinese knock off's as my nose retirement nose is always on the cost factor scent ......but my common sense tells me this isn't the application to try and save a buck on and push my luck.

Thanks again

[TwelveVolt]

Originally Posted by RobRoy

Nice post and thanks for sharing your information.
What I'm trying to figure out is what you used for hose fittings on your new filter? The set up I looked at looks like it uses barbed push on hose type fittings and o-ring type seals at the filter housing side.
My current racor system uses large what I believe are referred to as " jic" fittings with pipe thread.
Also how that filter set up primed?
Thanks again

I simply unscrewed the hose fittings from the old filter housing and into the new one without modification. If you look at the photo in post #21 you can see the two hex nuts at the hose fitting on the bottom of the T. One nut is part of the crimped hose side, and the other is on the rotating male pipe thread. The silver hex fitting attached to the Racor body can be ordered in different pipe thread sizes. I just ordered the one that matched my existing hose fittings.

After a filter change, I turn the key to the Start position without starting the engine. This runs the electric fuel pump that draws fuel into the filter and pushes any air to the engine and back down the return hose to the tank. Because the pump times out, I turn the switch to Off and back to Start every minute for four or five cycles. Then I start the engine and let it run for several minutes to ensure there is no air left in the line before getting back on the road.

I chose the 500 model because it was similar in size to the filter I replaced and my Napa dealer had it on hand. I change filters every 4000 to 5000 miles barring any fuel quality issues. In hindsight, the 900 might have been a better option because the cartridge is only a couple of dollars more and has a much larger surface area, meaning more miles between changes. I don't know if it would have fit in the same space, and hose re-work was not part of the plan.

I also added a length of plastic tubing to the barb on the bottom of the glass bowl. I place the end of the tube in an old plastic bottle and open the valve slightly to dump several ounces to remove any water that the filter has trapped.

Because it is this easy and the gauge gives me the information I need, the filter change gets done before it becomes a problem on the road.

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by TwelveVolt

I simply unscrewed the hose fittings from the old filter housing and into the new one without modification. If you look at the photo in post #21 you can see the two hex nuts at the hose fitting on the bottom of the T. One nut is part of the crimped hose side, and the other is on the rotating male pipe thread. The silver hex fitting attached to the Racor body can be ordered in different pipe thread sizes. I just ordered the one that matched my existing hose fittings.

After a filter change, I turn the key to the Start position without starting the engine. This runs the electric fuel pump that draws fuel into the filter and pushes any air to the engine and back down the return hose to the tank. Because the pump times out, I turn the switch to Off and back to Start every minute for four or five cycles. Then I start the engine and let it run for several minutes to ensure there is no air left in the line before getting back on the road.

I chose the 500 model because it was similar in size to the filter I replaced and my Napa dealer had it on hand. I change filters every 4000 to 5000 miles barring any fuel quality issues. In hindsight, the 900 might have been a better option because the cartridge is only a couple of dollars more and has a much larger surface area, meaning more miles between changes. I don't know if it would have fit in the same space, and hose re-work was not part of the plan.

I also added a length of plastic tubing to the barb on the bottom of the glass bowl. I place the end of the tube in an old plastic bottle and open the valve slightly to dump several ounces to remove any water that the filter has trapped.

Because it is this easy and the gauge gives me the information I need, the filter change gets done before it becomes a problem on the road.

It would have been prudent of me to read the whole thread and NOT start at #32



Thank you

Thank you

[Jeff753]

Originally Posted by TwelveVolt

The idea of a two (or more) filter system is to remove consecutively smaller particles with each filter. For example, a 10 micron would remove everything larger than 10 microns, followed by a 2 micron to remove everything in the 2 to 10 micron range. Similar to the way gravel is sifted into size categories using consecutively finer screens. Because the gauge shows the status of the first (easy to change) filter, the approach I am using is to do all the filtering with a 2 micron cartridge in the first filter (Racor). I know the second filter will never clog, so no need to monitor it.

The first step was to call Racor to verify which size was suitable for my engine. The 500fg is rated at 60GPH which matched my Cummins 330HP. The 900fg is 90GPH. Note that this is not how much fuel you use in an hour, but the maximum flow rate you need when climbing a mountain.

http://racorstore.com/racor-500fg10-...separator.html

http://racorstore.com/racor-900fh10-...separator.html

The filter housing usually shows a micron rating in the description, but that is just the cartridge that comes with it. The cartridges come in 2, 10 and 30 micron. I always use the Racor brand 2 micron, but when I ran out of filters due to a tank of dirty fuel, I discovered that other manufacturers make equivalents that are available at many auto parts stores. The problem is that most of the other brands do not clearly state the micron spec on the product. Each Racor cartridge comes with an O ring and gasket. I replace these ever third or fourth filter change, or if they look worn.

https://www.amazon.com/ELEMENT-Repla...s=Racor+filter

The second step was to check the size of the threaded fittings that connected the fuel hoses to my existing filter housing. I ordered the 500fg housing plus the appropriately sized in and out fittings. Note that these are special fittings with an O ring on the Racor side.

The simplest solution for a gauge is the Racor model pictured in an earlier post that screws into the top of the T handle. Just verify that it matches the filter housing you chose.

http://racorstore.com/racor-rk23284-...ne-series.html

There are some knock-offs on Amazon at half the price listed as "Racor 500fg equivalent", but I know nothing about their quality.

Awesome!! Thanks. I need to do some research on my current filters micron rating. I was thinking they were both 10 micron.
Thanks again for the info. Very interesting thread. Do silver leafs show fuel pressure too? I think the ECM reports it I Cummins Insight Software. I don't know if you can use that pressure to see filter degradation though


Jeff
2001 Dynasty Regent tag axle
Cummins 350 8.3 ISC
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
FMCA U60 Task Force Chairman