Community Forums

greystroke · 08-01-2016, 05:50 PM

After spending a lot time keeping my drivers side front well filled with oil, I am now going to replace the inner seal.

All of the tech info is available on the Freightliner site and I studied the sections before beginning.

Wheel is off. Just removed the brake drum.

If anybody out there has replaced this seal would appreciate some advice.

Right now I am cleanup mode. I am going to take my time since this is a first to me.

Mike Canter · 08-01-2016, 05:58 PM

Check both bearings and races for pitting and any blueness which is a sign of overheating. Probably worth installing new bearings and races at this point. You have to be real careful in putting the spindle back on that you don't nick the seal. Also lubricate the seal before you put it on. Lastly pay real close attention to setting the slack on the bearings. The best way is usually with a dial indicator

greystroke · 08-01-2016, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Canter

Check both bearings and races for pitting and any blueness which is a sign of overheating. Probably worth installing new bearings and races at this point. You have to be real careful in putting the spindle back on that you don't nick the seal. Also lubricate the seal before you put it on. Lastly pay real close attention to setting the slack on the bearings. The best way is usually with a dial indicator

Thanks Mike I will do just that. Years ago I replaced a lot of these but I am not the same man as I was 50 years ago.

I purchased a new dial indicator. Before I take the hub off I will check the end play to see how bad it is. I will check for blueness with a bright light.

the end play spec is 0 to .005. According to drawings it has an adjusting nut and a jam nut. I will follow procedure.

Thanks for the tips.

Mike Canter · 08-01-2016, 08:45 PM

Fifty years ago was a longtime ago for me also, I know just how you feel. Fifty years ago we probably would not have researched how to do it correctly first. It sounds like you are on the right track.

greystroke · 08-02-2016, 08:13 AM

Hope so. When I worked on bearings in the 40's 50's and 60's we just tightened the jam nut "pretty tight" and then backed off so the cotter key would work. Things have changed including my strength. Lifting that huge drum off did me in. As you get older you start using more levers and jacks to lift.

When I jacked the MH up my tire cleared the ground by about 1/8 of an inch. This is so I don't have to lift the tire to install it when I re-assemble.

zmotorsports · 08-05-2016, 02:14 PM

I also suggest using the proper installation tool for these unitized seals. If they are installed incorrectly and not allowed to turn inside itself it will self destruct in short order.

I have a pretty detailed assembly laid out in my coach mod/repair thread. There is a link in my signature and the section where I did my axle seal in on page # 11. Mine was the tag axle but installation of the seal and bearing preload will be the same. Spec's for the bearing are .001"-.005" end play after final torque.

Mike.

greystroke · 08-05-2016, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zmotorsports

I also suggest using the proper installation tool for these unitized seals. If they are installed incorrectly and not allowed to turn inside itself it will self destruct in short order.

I have a pretty detailed assembly laid out in my coach mod/repair thread. There is a link in my signature and the section where I did my axle seal in on page # 11. Mine was the tag axle but installation of the seal and bearing preload will be the same. Spec's for the bearing are .001"-.005" end play after final torque.

Mike.

Wow! Your link is so good I forgot why I clicked on it so it is a bookmarked item for me. I bought the seals from a Freightliner shop(southern Trucking) in Pratt Ks when I discovered the leaking seal. Unfortunately when I tried to install the hub the seal didn't work. I did a search at the stemco site against the Freightliner part number and the seals crossreferenced ok.

So I called Freightliner and found out they were not the proper seals. They said I must use the Guardian seals and not the Voyager. (A Guardian seal was removed from the hub) Any way I ordered the Stemco Guardian (308-0836) so I shut down til Tuesday.

I know about the installation tool BUT no one has them. Al least everyone I talked to does not know anything.(Southern Trucking, NAPA, and other parts stores. It appears that not to many shops use them. If you know of a place online that has Stemco installation tools that would be a big help.

I am installing IAW Freightliner procedures.

Thanks for tuning in Mike. Now I will go to P11 on your link.

greystroke · 08-05-2016, 04:21 PM

Mike

Just looked at your seal replacement and it is similar to mine.

My specs are within 005 endplay.

Procedure
Torque Adjusting nut to 100....then back off
Torque Adjusting nut to 20.......Turn hub a few times.
Back off nut 1/3 turn as a starting point.

install jam nut lockwasher and lockring
Torque to 200-300

Check endplay

If out loosen, adjust the adjusting nut, and re do the steps

-----------------------------------------

Before I removed the hub my endplay with the old seal was 004. The adjusting nut was about 1/8 to 1/4 turn backoff.

sjholt · 08-05-2016, 05:29 PM

If using a dial indicator- Set the play to around .002. When I set mine to .0045 it was too loose and you could feel and hear it clunk.
I have 74,000 miles on my oiler wheels and they are still "tight".

Skip H.
96 Windsor

greystroke · 08-05-2016, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjholt

If using a dial indicator- Set the play to around .002. When I set mine to .0045 it was too loose and you could feel and hear it clunk.
I have 74,000 miles on my oiler wheels and they are still "tight".

Skip H.
96 Windsor

That is a good idea. I will probably backoff the adjusting nut 1/8 turn to start and then toque it down and put the dial indicator on.