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Old 03-22-2017, 03:19 PM   #29
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( When you folks were removing your frig...about how many screws or bolts hold the old Norcold in place.(RIM 1200) I'm getting ready to pull mine out. It's hard to see in the back with only a small vent opening? Thanks. )


Its been several yrs since I installed our Samsung but I don't recall any
screws in the back just several around the front .
There will be elect , propane and water connections in back .

Ray
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Old 03-22-2017, 04:10 PM   #30
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Seems like there was only a few screws along the bottom rear, and a handful more behind the front trim/molding. I was surprised at how few there was altogether.
Same here. Seems like they were 2 square drive screws about an 1" or 1 1/2" long in the back. They were run down through the bottom metal pan of the Norcold into the plywood base. On the front there are a few from the Norcold flange into the refrigerator opening cabinet stiles. Pretty much what Rustytools said.

Chad
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Old 03-22-2017, 09:42 PM   #31
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And for the benefit of others who may be following this Thread.....how did you handle the LP line after removal from frig.....put a plug in the end of the line since there doesn't appear to be a cut off valve?
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Old 03-22-2017, 09:51 PM   #32
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And for the benefit of others who may be following this Thread.....how did you handle the LP line after removal from frig.....put a plug in the end of the line since there doesn't appear to be a cut off valve?
On my 07 Neptune there was a manifold (splitter) underneath the fridge. The fridge, cook top, furnace, and water heater all branched off the black iron hard pipe. I unscrewed the flare nut and removed the flexible copper line for fridge. I took that nut to Lowe's and bought a cap that size. IIRC it was a 1/2" cap. I used liquid pipe dope approved for gas line to seal the threads. Spray with soapy water to make sure it's not leaking.

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Old 03-22-2017, 11:48 PM   #33
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Thanks for the info. Congratulations to Biglars368 on your decision and install. It's always takes a while to make decisions and compromises. David
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Old 03-23-2017, 04:09 AM   #34
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I helped a friend replace his frig, so he felt inclined to help me do mine. He was very OCD about everything and said we needed to remove the now-useless 3ft stub of copper line. When we discussed it, his exact words were: "It's just that much less weight."

A flare-plug on the end solved that issue.
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Old 03-23-2017, 05:30 AM   #35
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When removing mine there were two vertical screws in the back and just a few top and bottom in the front. I pulled my cooling unit off for removal. I probably did not have to as I am sure it would have fit but it was so much lighter by doing so. Once it was out and I figured the 16CF would not fit I went ahead and immediately put the old one back together and hooked it up in my garage. Last I looked it was 28 in the box and 10 in the freezer and that's with no insulation on the chimney. Also it made things easier to take it apart by watching a youtube video. I have never taken one apart and did not want to break anything. As far as the gas line I just bought a compression fitting with a cap. I did so before looking underneath to see the tee where it slits off. Buying a cap would have been a little easier. Hell I may even have one in my tool box. I keep all that old brass stuff. After thinking about how to close in the gap we decided just to extend the stile out then cover it to make it appear like it's a cabinet door. We bought some 1/2" wood outside corner beading yesterday and we plan to paint it black and just trim the outside frame of the box with it. That way I can straighten any gaps with the fridge cause ain't nothing in this RV square...lol. I am taking pics as I go and will post when I am done.
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Old 04-04-2017, 07:07 PM   #36
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Well we just finished our install of the fridge but for some reason when I post a pic it is turned sideways. Can anyone help or advise how to fix that?
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Old 04-05-2017, 12:46 PM   #37
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And for the benefit of others who may be following this Thread.....how did you handle the LP line after removal from frig.....put a plug in the end of the line since there doesn't appear to be a cut off valve?
That's what I did. The connection to the copper pipe leading to the Norcold was actually in the basement and the copper pipe threaded up through a hole in the floor (caulked with a foam caulk) and wound around to the connection on the back of the fridge. I had the gas shut off, but disconnecting that joint proved to be a good test that my propane detector was operating correctly.

I capped the source fitting with a brass cap and used a really good thread dope (don't remember the name) to insure a sound fit. A couple of soapy water tests confirmed that all was well. Since the source fitting was brass and the cap was brass I really did not need the thread dope. But, I was careful to only get it on the threads and figured the extra "insurance" was worth it. My pipe terminates in an open basement and I certainly do not want propane loose in there.

I also plugged the hole where the copper pipe came into the coach with a 1" dowel piece and some glue. I wanted to keep the interior of the coach and the basement separation intact.
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Old 04-05-2017, 05:49 PM   #38
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Well this is the finished product. Gonna start a build thread and give a few more details. Big thanks to OneChadDude for the input.

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Old 04-05-2017, 05:59 PM   #39
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Well this is the finished product. Gonna start a build thread and give a few more details. Big thanks to OneChadDude for the input.

Attachment 157332
BigLar368, that looks awesome. I'd say you did a wonderful job. Congrats on getting it installed. It's a big undertaking but you can take pride knowing it's done correctly and YOU did it. Enjoy it. I know you will like I do mine.

Chad
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