Community Forums

veraken · 01-18-2017, 05:15 PM

Like many others on this forum, I am in the process of replacing my Norcold 9182 with a residential refrigerator - Frigidaire FFTR1022QB. The one I selected as well as all the others I considered call for a 15 amp breaker. The current breaker in my motorhome is a 10 amp breaker. Have others had this problem? If so, did you replace your breaker or just run the refrigerator on the 10 amp circuit? Any inputs/thoughts would be appreciated.

select55 · 01-18-2017, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by veraken

Like many others on this forum, I am in the process of replacing my Norcold 9182 with a residential refrigerator - Frigidaire FFTR1022QB. The one I selected as well as all the others I considered call for a 15 amp breaker. The current breaker in my motorhome is a 10 amp breaker. Have others had this problem? If so, did you replace your breaker or just run the refrigerator on the 10 amp circuit? Any inputs/thoughts would be appreciated.

never seen a 10 amp breaker but all that aside if the only thing on that circuit is a fridge your more than good to go

powderman · 01-18-2017, 05:32 PM

The 10 amp is 12volt. You need to find a 120 volt ac

veraken · 01-18-2017, 05:50 PM

My apologies to all!! You are correct. I read it wrong, it is a 20 amp breaker - problem solved.

Robin_M · 01-18-2017, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by veraken

My apologies to all!! You are correct. I read it wrong, it is a 20 amp breaker - problem solved.

Well THAT was easy. Hope the rest of the project goes as well for you.

jlturner · 01-18-2017, 09:41 PM

Which residential refer have you selected?

Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum

veraken · 01-19-2017, 04:26 AM

I have decided on a Frigidaire FFTR1022QB.

I did a ton of research before replacing my Norcold RV refrigerator and this one came out #1 by far. If you plan to make the conversion, there are some issues.
1. These fridges are not built-ins and will require clearance for air circulation. The Frigidaire needs only an inch on either side, which is probably all you'll have anyway. The back only requires 2" clearance. Other brands wanted far more. Don't be tempted to skip that. The sides get warm, so no doubt that's where the coils are located.
2. Operating temperature. Other brands I looked at said their fridge wouldn't operate below 60 or above 90 degrees, and warned against using in a garage. No such restriction on the Frigidaire. Just keep it between 10 and 110 degrees, per the manual.
3. It fit my existing opening with only minor modification.
4. MOST IMPORTANT TO DW the fronts were flat. I plan on taking the wooden front panels off my old unit and mounting on the new and terefore needed the flat front.

Robin_M · 01-19-2017, 04:43 AM

You DID do a ton of research, Ken. I am curious as to whether you took a look at the Samsung refrigerators. They are popular for Norcold 1200 series replacements due to their size being very similar, and the fact that they work well with a modified sine wave inverter. As I recall, they also require very little clearance.

Again, best of luck with your conversion. You will really enjoy it when you're done. My wife and I agree that having converted to a residential refrigerator is the best modification we had ever done with our 2007 Diplomat.

veraken · 01-19-2017, 06:32 AM

The refrigerator that I am replacing is a small (7.5 cu ft) unit. I wanted to find one that was roughly that same size so that I didn't have to do major modifications and/or loose the pantry next to it. The unit that I am installing is a 10 cu. ft and except for loosing @ 1" on one side requires no major mod. We seldom boondock so the invertor is a minor issue. Looking at the Samsung units I did not find one that would fit and was cost effective.

vito.a · 01-19-2017, 09:19 AM

I replaced the small 2-door Norcold in our Windsor with a Frigidaire. It’s the best thing we ever did to that coach! I had to trim the wood side openings about 1" for the required clearance. The bottom clearance is built into the base frame of the Frigidaire and the top clearance was no problem.

I secured the fridge with several large screws through the rear base into the floor (had to use a 90 degree drill). I found some L brackets and installed them onto the top front corners of the fridge where the existing doors screws were (it has door screws on both top front corners as the doors are reversible). I then screwed these brackets into the cabinet above the fridge to secure the top front. I later painted these brackets flat black.

My 110v breaker and inverter breaker boxes were right next to each other. I removed the fridge wire from the existing 110v breaker and added wire to extend it to the inverter panel. I added a new breaker to the inverter panel and installed the wire into it.

When I had the Norcold out I removed all the bottom and side insulation so the air can circulate. I also plugged the roof and side vents with insulation and secured some of the loose wires in the cabinet.

Some small tips: I removed the coach front door retainer bracket so it could swing all the way open to the outside mirror and put the passenger seat all the way back. I also removed the magazine rack and center dash console. I ordered the new fridge from Home Depot and when the delivery crew arrived, they took the doors off and brought it right inside the coach.

I left the shipping strapping tape on the new Frigidaire shelves to keep them in place.

I used Velcro straps secured with 3M double sticky to retain the doors (only when traveling).

Hope this helps.

veraken · 01-19-2017, 11:03 AM

Thanks for the info. I plan on putting rigid insulation on the refrigerator cavity walls, leave the side and roof vents open for ventilation, and seal (as best I can) the refrigerator from the interior of my motorhome. This is in essence how the old one was installed. I like your idea of the L brackets for securing the top.

vito.a · 01-19-2017, 10:18 PM

Unlike the Norcold, your residential fridge will work best circulating inside room temperature air and should be sealed from the elements. Coaches with factory option residential fridges are sealed from the outside air.

Picture of L brackets

Picture of Velcro door straps. Only used when driving.

L brackets painted flat black and old screw holes filled in.

veraken · 01-20-2017, 06:10 AM

Thought about sealing the outside. Since they say you need 1" on each side, 2" in back and 12" on top, I didn't think it would have enough air space for good circulation. My gut feel was to do as you suggest. In searching the web site, I've found proponents of both options.

Sweetbriar · 01-20-2017, 06:28 AM

Looks like you found a great fridge as a replacement. One small item for consideration is the defrost circuit. As the OP did mention their camping plans included limited boon docking but I would still consider adding a switch to the circuit, if possible, so when the days comes you can disable the defrost and save a few house battery volts.