RF 18 Automatic Door Catch Install

[zo66]

Originally Posted by BRex45

The Fridge Fixer appears to be the best solution yet and looks OK too.

Hey BRex45,

After reading your comment, I realized that there was a more fitting title for this thread that would help to clarify the intent. This is my first attempt at starting a thread and so please forgive my inexperience.

The title of the thread has since been edited to "RF 18 Automatic Door catch Install", so that the discussion doesn't become a debate as to which is better, "automatic" versus "manual". That wasn't the point of sharing the information on an easy way to install automatically operating catches on a residential fridge without penetrating the fridge cabinet. I have learned so much here on iRV2 in the past year and just wanted to attempt to share information that might help someone else. This idea of using these type of catches on a residential fridge is not new or original, I believe that it has been around for quite awhile I just wanted to see if I could actually start a thread. I made another attempt to video the installation and posted a 13 second video on post #22 that shows the finished product much better.

Thanks for your input,

Jim

[tmw188]

Originally Posted by zo66

Hey BRex45,



After reading your comment, I realized that there was a more fitting title for this thread that would help to clarify the intent. This is my first attempt at starting a thread and so please forgive my inexperience.



The title of the thread has since been edited to "RF 18 Automatic Door catch Install", so that the discussion doesn't become a debate as to which is better, "automatic" versus "manual". That wasn't the point of sharing the information on an easy way to install automatically operating catches on a residential fridge without penetrating the fridge cabinet. I have learned so much here on iRV2 in the past year and just wanted to attempt to share information that might help someone else. This idea of using these type of catches on a residential fridge is not new or original, I believe that it has been around for quite awhile I just wanted to see if I could actually start a thread. I made another attempt to video the installation and posted a 13 second video on post #22 that shows the finished product much better.



Thanks for your input,



Jim

You are absolutely right, and you did good on your thread and certainly on your modification to the fridge. These threads would be short if no one replied and everyone wants to show what they have done to accomplish the same thing. I don't think there is any intentional attempt to debate what is better it just evolves. I have said this same thing on other threads that they would be very short if all the replies would consist of praise although it should be given. This thread might be better in another forum but would still have the same responses. I like the mod didn't know they made those pcs. so it did exactly what you had hoped for and for probably more than just me. Good job.

[zo66]

Originally Posted by tmw188

You are absolutely right, and you did good on your thread and certainly on your modification to the fridge. These threads would be short if no one replied and everyone wants to show what they have done to accomplish the same thing. I don't think there is any intentional attempt to debate what is better it just evolves. I have said this same thing on other threads that they would be very short if all the replies would consist of praise although it should be given. This thread might be better in another forum but would still have the same responses. I like the mod didn't know they made those pcs. so it did exactly what you had hoped for and for probably more than just me. Good job.

tmw188,

Thank you, I appreciate your perspective

Jim

[426smartin]

Originally Posted by zo66

I recently installed a Samsung RF 18 residential refrigerator in our 2006 Monaco Camelot PDQ. Here is how I installed door catches without drilling into the refrigerator cabinet.

I purchased the following materials:

* 1/4" x 3/4" x 48" long aluminum flat bar

* 12" x 12" x 1/16" thick aluminum plate

* (3) 10 pound pull side mount grabber catches (Southco 4320)

* 3M Body Side Mounting tape 7/8" wide (3M 0316)

* 3M Body side Mounting tape 1/2" wide (3M 06384)

* Light weight cardboard for the template

Got my southco catches on order from Amazon 6.00 $ each ----What size sheet metal screws did you use? Thanks

[zo66]

Originally Posted by 426smartin

Got my southco catches on order from Amazon 6.00 $ each ----What size sheet metal screws did you use? Thanks

426smartin,

Glad to hear that you have parts on order.

The SouthCo catches have fairly small mounting holes, and so I used some small head #6 stainless sheet metal screws to attach the female side of the catch to the bottom edge of the fridge doors, and also the top edge of the freezer drawer. I scribed and drilled pilot holes with a small drill bit to assure accuracy, test fitting alignment one catch at a time.

I used 6-32 small head stainless machine screws that were threaded and tapped into the 1/4" thick flat bar to attach the male side of each catch. This portion was done on the bench, prior to mounting anything in the coach. Make sure that these 6-32 screws do not extend deeper than the flat bar.

I found small head screws at ACE hardware

[RustyTools]

Good job on the project and writeup, zo66. And thank you, tmw188, for expressing your comments.

[zo66]

Originally Posted by 426smartin

Got my southco catches on order from Amazon 6.00 $ each ----What size sheet metal screws did you use? Thanks

426smartin,

You probably already know this but the french doors on the RF 18 are easily adjustable using a small hex key (provided with the new fridge). This info may help some folks if their french doors are currently misaligned. The fridge doors need to be aligned so that the southco catches line up properly. Proper alignment also insures that proper door seal is achieved for efficient fridge operation.

[426smartin]

Originally Posted by zo66

426smartin,

You probably already know this but the french doors on the RF 18 are easily adjustable using a small hex key (provided with the new fridge). This info may help some folks if their french doors are currently misaligned. The fridge doors need to be aligned so that the southco catches line up properly. Proper alignment also insures that proper door seal is achieved for efficient fridge operation.

Thanks for the tip!

[Paul R. Haller]

I wanted to take a moment and thank the original poster ZO66 for this thread. After doing much research I too decided on the Samsung RF18. In my case, the new fridge is going into a 40 ft 5th wheel trailer and is further complicated by the fact that the original nocold was 24 inches wide, necessitating some cabinet work, and that the fridge was going into a slide out also. Since my original fridge didn’t have an ice maker. I had to add a flexible stainless water line, a filter, and an accessible shut off, I snaked the new line about 25 feet under the enclosed underbelly into the slide out. A 3 and 25 foot stainless wrapped lines were both available through amazon but nowhere locally. I removed and capped the LP hose under the slide out as well. I also have a 4000 watt MSW inverter that required adding a circuit to the fridge. I have a small petmanently mounted side table next to the fridge side panel where I placed both a white colored shore power duplex outlet as well as my dedicated inverter power duplex outlet in dark brown so I could tell the difference between them at a glance.
I followed the info given here with the exception of using a 1 X 1/4 aluminum bar which provides slightly more adhering surface area when attached to the fridge box and still clears all gaskets on the doors, A small detail. My installation also forced me to fabricate some mounting brackets for the front as well as the rear fridge out of 1/4 steel to prevent the fridge from movement while on the road. I used 6 1/2 stainless carriage bolts through the floor of the slide out and into the undercarriage of the fridge where I beefed up the undercarriage using 1 & 1/2 x 1/4 steel angle iron. The leveling feet in the front I upgraded to 3/8 bolts that are adjustable and bolted into the floor using 1/4 steel plate and 8 5/16 bolts. I do not want this fridge to move while on the road. On the roof of the slide inside the fridge cabinet I attached a sheet of 3/4 baltic birch with 1/2 stainless carriage bolts screwed to a sheet of 1/2 aluminum that is adheared to the fridge top using a lot of 3 M tape. There is a 1 inch air space around the entire fridge for air movement. I also added 1inch of rigged foam to the inside of the fridge surround to keep things quiet. Then installed a cover trim out of walnut as all my cabinets are made of walnut so I could access everything and so the new fridge can be removed if necessary for service. It looks as if it has always been there. I particularly like that all the hardwware is hidden so no unsightly add ons are visible and all works like it was originally made that way. I could not have done this without the original poster and his dedication to helping others who share his passions by giving this valuable info along with a parts list which details the necessary parts. Thank you again. I’ll try adding some photos here.

[Paul R. Haller]

Some photos.

[zo66]

Originally Posted by Paul R. Haller

I wanted to take a moment and thank the original poster ZO66 for this thread. After doing much research I too decided on the Samsung RF18. In my case, the new fridge is going into a 40 ft 5th wheel trailer and is further complicated by the fact that the original nocold was 24 inches wide, necessitating some cabinet work, and that the fridge was going into a slide out also. Since my original fridge didn’t have an ice maker. I had to add a flexible stainless water line, a filter, and an accessible shut off, I snaked about 25 feet under the enclosed underbelly into the slide out. I removed and capped the LP hose under the slide out as well. I also have a 4000 watt MSW inverter that required adding a circuit to the fridge. I have a small petmanently mounted side table next to the fridge side panel where I placed both a white colored shore power duplex outlet as well as my dedicated inverter power duplex outlet in dark brown so I could tell the difference between them at a glance.

I followed the info given here with the exception of using a 1 X 1/4 aluminum bar which provides slightly more adhering surface area when attached to the fridge box and still clears all gaskets on the doors, A small detail. My installation also forced me to fabricate some mounting brackets for the front as well as the rear fridge out of 1/4 steel to prevent the fridge from movement while on the road. I used 6 1/2 stainless carriage bolts through the floor of the slide out and into the undercarriage of the fridge where I beefed up the undercarriage using 1 & 1/2 x 1/4 steel angle iron. The leveling feet in the front I upgraded to 3/8 bolts that are adjustable and bolted into the floor using 1/4 steel plate and 8 5/16 bolts. I do not want this fridge to move while on the road. On the roof of the slide inside the fridge cabinet I attached a sheet of 3/4 baltic birch with 1/2 stainless carriage bolts screwed to a sheet of 1/2 aluminum that is adheared to the fridge top using a lot of 3 M tape. There is a 1 inch air space around the entire fridge for air movement. I also added 1inch of rigged foam to the surround to keep things quiet. Then installed a cover trim out of walnut as all my cabinets are made of walnut so I could access everything and so it can be removed if necessary for service. It looks as if it has always been there. I particularly like that all the hardwware is hidden so no unsightly add ons are visible and all works like it was originally made that way. I could not have done this without the original poster and his dedication to helping others who share his passions by giving this valuable info along with a parts list which details the necessary parts. Thank you again. I’ll try adding some photos here.

Hey Paul,

I'm glad it worked out for you. I recently attended a high end car auction here in LV. There was an extremely high end Prevost based coach on display with a price tag over $2M. When I was walking through the coach (just for fun) I opened the massive fridge, and was surprised to hear the now familiar click, click sound of the same door latches that we used on our RF 18! It made me smile! If it's good enough for a $2M coach, it's good enough for my 12 year old Camelot.

This forum is an amazing resource for sure. I would love to see your photos.

Jim

[Paul R. Haller]

Thank you Jim, and interesting point on the 2 M Prevost. I assume you are attending the Barrett Jackson auction and looking at some older cars there. I have a fully restored 71 GTO Judge in my garage that I worked on for almost 12 years in hemi orange with a white vinyl top and white interior. I do all my own paint and body work as well as all mechanical work. I am retired now but I worked for 34 years at UC Berkeley in Civil Engineering as their facilities manager. Not far from where you are in Pahrump NV, I attended every year the turbo diesel registers annual May madness diesel fest. We take over the speedway there and all the Viper guys come out in force to show support of the Dodge Cummns diesel trucks. I’ve been going now for about 22 years but it’s changed hands now and have no details yet for this year.

I’ll take some more photos of the install and post them here if I can later tonight. Thanks again for your details posted and my gaining the info here. It has been, over the years, a very supportive and helpful resource. I'm proud to be a member here. Thanks again, Paul R. Haller

[Paul R. Haller]

More photos of the RF18 Samsung install.

The first photo shows the two power outlets to the left of fridge. Brown is inverter Power, white for shore power. It also shows how no latches are visible when in use and the custom made front adjustable feet hold downs.

2nd photo shows custom made plates holding down adjustable feet in front of fridge.

3rd photo is the 1 inch aluminum plate mounted with tape between upper and lower doors along with freezer door female latch mechanism mounted to freezer drawer.

4 th photo shows all doors open with male latches applied to plate and adhered to fridge box.

[zo66]

Originally Posted by Paul R. Haller

Thank you Jim, and interesting point on the 2 M Prevost. I assume you are attending the Barrett Jackson auction and looking at some older cars there. I have a fully restored 71 GTO Judge in my garage that I worked on for almost 12 years in hemi orange with a white vinyl top and white interior. I do all my own paint and body work as well as all mechanical work. I am retired now but I worked for 34 years at UC Berkeley in Civil Engineering as their facilities manager. Not far from where you are in Pahrump NV, I attended every year the turbo diesel registers annual May madness diesel fest. We take over the speedway there and all the Viper guys come out in force to show support of the Dodge Cummns diesel trucks. I’ve been going now for about 22 years but it’s changed hands now and have no details yet for this year.

I’ll take some more photos of the install and post them here if I can later tonight. Thanks again for your details posted and my gaining the info here. It has been, over the years, a very supportive and helpful resource. I'm proud to be a member here. Thanks again, Paul R. Haller

Hey Paul,

It was Barrett Jackson. Your 71 GTO Judge sounds like a great project. I have one of those (long term projects) that is almost complete. It's a 1966 Chevy C-10 that I have been working on and off for years. Some day I will actually finish it up. We named it "Zo66" because it secretly has a Corvette Zo6 engine in the 66 pickup. I'll keep an eye out for the Judge, since we live in the same vicinity. I bet it is really nice.

Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it very much.

Jim

PS Your going to love the new RF-18 fridge!