Community Forums

oldguy70 · 07-09-2018, 04:40 PM

You haven't said what the temperature is. When I got my rig the high temp alarm was
disconnected so I reconnected it and the light would come on and the engine was not
hot so I bought a higher temperature sensor and no more problems. On steep climbs on
a hot day I never have a problem.

cndondi · 07-09-2018, 06:51 PM

I can't give you a temp since I have dumb gauge. I should probably install a real gauge so I know what I am dealing with. I did think maybe I had a bad sensor that was giving a warning at safe but on the high side temps.

windsorbill · 07-09-2018, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cndondi

I can't give you a temp since I have dumb gauge. I should probably install a real gauge so I know what I am dealing with. I did think maybe I had a bad sensor that was giving a warning at safe but on the high side temps.

I think the buzzer goes off at around 220-225, but not positive about that temp.

So the coach doesn't have an Aladdin system or equiv, I guess. That would display your temperatures.

YC1 · 07-10-2018, 04:12 PM

Have you researched how to burp the radiator. It is possible you have air in the system someplace.

I sure would want a real digital readout of the temps. There are things like Scanguage out there that would do the job.

I would want to know the transmission temps at the same time.

There was an new thermostat update as you mentioned and I had an overheating issue that came on after a couple of years of ownership. No problems since replacing the thermostat but on monster climbs I do watch the temps closely.

FL420 · 07-11-2018, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cndondi

I can't give you a temp since I have dumb gauge. I should probably install a real gauge so I know what I am dealing with. I did think maybe I had a bad sensor that was giving a warning at safe but on the high side temps.

I highly recommend you purchase a ScanGaugeD for your coach. Mine is without a doubt the most important tool I have protecting the most expensive equipment to repair that I own and operate. I originally bought it as most of the gauges in my new to me Monaco Knight were squirrely and unreliable.

Since I pull a toad and haul a motorcycle behind the radiator(yes I know it's highly frowned upon) I soon learned how important it was to be able to reliably monitor the temperature of the coolant as well as the transmission temperature. What I discovered travelling up the long slow climb from the lower elevations of the Great Plains to the foothills of the Rocky Mountains on a hot day was the analog OEM temperature gauge was reading at least 15 degrees hotter than the temperature from the ECM displayed on the ScanGaugeD.

Yesterday, we visited 4 states starting at an elevation of 3,000 feet and ending at an elevation of 9,000 feet after climbing Raton Pass and stopping in the San Isabel National Forest. The coolant temperature reading finally convinced me to pull over and take the toad off the dolly for my DW to drive the last 15 miles before overheating the engine. It was a great help in selecting the right gear and RPM settings for climbing the mountains while maintaining the coolest temperatures.

I wouldn't be without it.

rpasetto · 07-12-2018, 04:56 AM

Remember that Simple Green is a brand name with many products in their line, from household to industrial type products. My engine was running hotter than usual, so I bought the heavy duty cleaner , like this one (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simple-G...3421/100550784). Make sure you get a cleaner that is strong but label says "Non-corrosive formula safely cleans aluminum,...". That product was successful, whereas their "household" product did little.

If you do this, mix as directed on the label and added a few oz of dish detergent liquid. Then, after removing radiator grille, spray thoroughly on radiator inside and out. (I used a garden type pump sprayer with 2 gal+ of solution, let it sit for about 10 minutes). Then rinse, rinse thoroughly with clear water, inside and out; when rinsing is done, rinse again just to be sure all the solution is gone. (I then started the engine to use the fan to help drying. Not sure that extra step was necessary.)

RobRoy · 07-12-2018, 06:38 AM

I don't use Simple Green to clean my radiator for no reason other than I have used 409 for years and by it in large quantities.

That being said I have yet to ever see any documentation of a structural failure due to the use of Simple Green.

I would be willing to bet that in a 2 year period there are by far more corrosion and joint wear factors going on from the inside your cooling system that would ever be presented by using Simple Green to clean the outside in accordance with the instructions on the label on the bottle.

Could it cause an issue?.. maybe? ..How measurable?.. Probably less than what car polish does to your paint finish when you polish your car or when you paint the interior of your house and the rooms get smaller.

Again I would be by far more concerned about whats going on inside my cooling system day to day as I would be to the effects of cleaning the outside with Simple Green for cleaning maintenance when using in accordance with the label instructions and some common sense.

Just my opinion I could be wrong

Happy Trails

barmcd · 07-12-2018, 07:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

Have you researched how to burp the radiator. It is possible you have air in the system someplace.

I sure would want a real digital readout of the temps. There are things like Scanguage out there that would do the job.

I would want to know the transmission temps at the same time.

There was an new thermostat update as you mentioned and I had an overheating issue that came on after a couple of years of ownership. No problems since replacing the thermostat but on monster climbs I do watch the temps closely.

My ISC automatically purges air from the system as the coolant circulates through the overflow tank. I think it'd be really unusual to get air stuck somewhere in the system.

rpasetto · 07-12-2018, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barmcd

My ISC automatically purges air from the system as the coolant circulates through the overflow tank. I think it'd be really unusual to get air stuck somewhere in the system.

Does that same thing also happen with the ISL? I've never seen/heard anything about "burping the cooling system.

10Boomer · 07-12-2018, 03:01 PM

Don’t burp the ISL either. The coolant tank let’s expansion and air to escape.

RobRoy · 07-14-2018, 04:15 PM

I hope you get your excessive temp situation under control.

As far as lugging the engine?....it's a bad bad bad thing to do to an engine and can take the engine bearings out pretty quick when doing so, especially under extreme loads @ max boost.

My personal opinion is that under extreme loads keep gearing down low manually enough and keeping the engine @ max power @ RPMs at 2000. My guess is that after reading here for a few years this subject it may also eliminate your excessive temp issues ta boot.

As far as not downshifting on it's own and running low RPM's and excessive temps under severe loads? IMO it's root cause is a mapping calibration issue between the PCM & TCM and again after reading plenty on the subject, I believe that it has to do with the powertrain/drivetrain being the proper spec for the coach more than anything else.

The bright side is that many here that reported having had the excessive temp issue found that maintaining high enough RPM's that keep the engine well into its max powerband while under severe load that the excessive temps are no longer an issue.

Happy Trails

BigLar368 · 07-15-2018, 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barmcd

My ISC automatically purges air from the system as the coolant circulates through the overflow tank. I think it'd be really unusual to get air stuck somewhere in the system.

Most ISC's I have seen have one or two small lines to the top of the expansion tank. These lines are plumbed from the higher points of the coolant system and bleed out any air that may be circulated in the engine. If you see these lines on top the expansion tank and follow them back one usually goes to the upper radiator hose and the other to a fitting in the cylinder head.

sfeenstra · 07-15-2018, 07:28 AM

I chased an overheating issue for two years. Temp climbed to 215 on hills and had very little power. Had the source engineering fan controller installed and it has solved the issue. Pulls grades with power runs 185_ 195.

cndondi · 07-15-2018, 10:01 AM

OKAY sounds like manually down shifting and try a new fan controller may be the answer. At any rate it is certainly worth a try. This is my race rig (I race karts) and am heading to Virginia International Raceway next week so we will give it a try. It makers me feel better that others have chased this problem and found an answer so its just not me.