Roof pulled away from sidewall by slidetopper?

[jamorton]

I had my HR Neptune in for the installation of the Source Engineering ride enhancement kit, and during the pre-inspection, the service manager pointed out that it looked like the attachment rail for the main slide topper was pulling away from the side of the motorhome.

When I got the rig home (Ride is MARVELOUS! - I will make a different post about that!) I got up on a ladder and realized that the curve of the metal roof to the sidewall was altered along the region of the slide topper. I pulled the slide out about a foot and looked underneath the fabric of the slide topper at the roof-sidewall junction, and it appears that the rivets which hold the slide-topper anchor onto the sidewall actually also hold the roof to the sidewall. The entire section of rivets has popped out and the roof does not curve down to the sidewall.

Has anyone else experienced this? If not, my rig is a 2004 HR Neptune, if you have a similar model, you might want to inspect the rivets below your slide topper.

I am examining my extended service contract and getting ready to call the service center again tomorrow.

If you have experienced this, I would appreciate information - any technical insights (if no warranty coverage, I may have to fix this one myself) or cost information as well as how good the results of the repair method used on your rig have been.

Best Regards

Jim Morton

[Rex]

Yep Jim, several have had this problem including me. The band between the roof and side wall has a hard rubber snap-on piece that covers a metal strip that fastens the roof to the side wall. On mine that metal strip was installed with screws. Water got inside somewhere and the screws all rusted out. I removed the rubber piece, drilled in between the screws (found they would break off if you try to remove them) and then installed aluminum pop rivets. I don’t think the original screws were long enough either. I use the 5/16 rivets and would like to have had them a bit longer.

To remove the rubber snap-on piece, cut the caulking above and below it away very carefully. Then remove all the caulk and clean the area using denatured alcohol. Now pry the bottom edge of the rubber piece off the metal strip. Use a very wide blade of some sort so and work slowly so you don’t damage it. Once it starts coming up, you can work your way down a foot or so and then start removing the top edge. Once you have enough loose you can pull it on off but do so very carefully as it will stretch.

When you start, go from one end of the coach to the other or you will be doing it again if you only fix part of it now. When all the rivets are installed, carefully start installing the rubber strip. Remember it will stretch and if it is painted take care in matching up any color changes. When it is reinstalled, caulk it on the top and bottom edge. Make sure you use paintable caulk, and DON’T use silicone. Use the best caulk you can get. Have a spray bottle with soapy water and run some caulk, spray it with the solution and use your finger to smooth it out. Use painters tape on each side of what you are caulking to limit the area where caulk is applied.

Yes you will have to remove the awning topper from the slide. You may be able to lay it on the coach roof and work around it without having to remove it from the gutter track.

Not a hard job, but time consuming. If you have full body paint, well the caulking and rubber strip you need to remove is most likely painted. So you will need to have some repainting done when you have the problem fixed. If that is the case, go ahead and pull the topper awning completely off the coach till the paint is fixed. Make sure the caulk you use is paintable.

I use Geocel 2300 MHRV Vehicle Body Sealant caulk. If you can't find it, call 800-348-7615 and ask them for a local dealer.

[Cottons]

Same thing happened on our '03 LaPalma. The procedure Rex describes is dead on, but I would use Bulbex or similar rivets. This style rivet is made to expand and leave a much larger surface area on the back side of pieces being joined. The first time I secured the sidewall to the roof I used standard rivets. Six months later I had to do the job over again. Second time I used Bulbex rivets and doubled the number originally used. Three years later, no separation.

[jamorton]

I appreciate the information provided. I have taken the slide-topper off - it was pretty easy once I figured out exactly how it is put together. I have gotten the awning rail off - had to drill out the rivet remainders. I have cleaned the awning rail - used a razor scraper to get the majority of the grey goo sealant off - it was still gooey not set like the silicone caulk I have used in the bathrooms of the house - and then gasoline to take the residue off. I tried both denatured alcohol and acetone, but the gas works much better and has similar hazards. I have also cleaned the sidewall in preparation for putting it all back together. The next step is to drill out the holes in the sidewall which also have rivet remainders in them, then seal and reassemble.

Rex, there was a gooey sealant between the awning rail and the roof material and also some between the roof and the sidewall. The rubber baby buggy bumper strip was caulked with a dried, yet still pliable after 5 years white caulk which looks like silicone to me. Why do you say not to use silicone? What does the geocell look like? does it dry out or is it the stuff that stays gooey?

I got some silicone caulk remover at home depot which I will use to remove the residue of the silicone type caulk (the majority being removed with a razor scraper) and then I will clean all surfaces with denatured alcohol prior to reassembly / resealing.

Regarding the suggestion to do all rivets - do you mean all rivets along the slide topper rail, or the whole roofline of the motorhome? Only the rivets along the awning rail popped, and in fact, the next fastener forward of the slide topper rail appears to be a screw, not a rivet. I am hoping not to disturb the baby buggy bumper forward of the slide topper rail in order not to mess up the paint in the forward part where it curves down along the sidewall and has the last 6 inches or so painted bronze, not white.

I am thinking of putting machine screws between the rivets, I will look for the bulbex rivets. I was thinking of using structural rivets, but they are generally steel, not aluminum and I was concerned about electrolytic activity. The machine screws I have are stainless, I am going to check to see if they are compatible with aluminum. The Pop Rivet catalog has lots of information on these kinds of issues.

I have been shooting video of the process as well as taking still pictures, and hope to put a you-tube video together to clearly demonstrate my mistakes. ( I learn best from my mistakes, perhaps others will )

Best Regards,

Jim

[Pusherpilot]

Jim,
We should all look forward to the video, since we all have the same brand MHs built by the same guys in the same way we might need it...................
Thanks,
Ron

[Rex]

Jim, the bulbex rivets are what I used. My gutter rail was attached with screws originally. Also spoke with another owner with the same problem and we compared notes. We both think Monaco did not use long enough screws and did not go into metal past the sidewall material. The sidewall on my coach is about 1/2-inch thick. The screws went through the metal gutter rail, roof and then into the sidewall, but did not penetrate the metal the side wall should attach to. The slid topper eventually pulled the screws out.

The rivets I used went into the metal behind the sidewall so I know they will not come back out, and they will not rust being aluminum. If you decide to use screws, I suggest stainless. They are softer so you may need to go to a Fastenall store and order some that are stronger. You can get driver screws made for a square bit in stainless by ordering them.

DON'T use silicone. If you use that it is difficult to ever clean it off sufficiently for other caulk to stick. The one I recommended will remain somewhat plyable and just a bit squishy but seals very well. It is also paintable and is made for use on auto and coach bodies. It is most likely what was on your coach.

If you are happy with only doing the part where the slide topper attached, then I would just stay with that. Keep a close eye on the rest just in case you have a problem down the road. Clean the caulking that you don't remove so the new caulk will adhere to it.

One other area you should check is the patio side. Inspect where the awning arms attached at the top. On mine I could not see any problem but had a leak in that wall. I removed the arm mounts and the caulking was cracked and water getting in on both the front and rear awning arms. On mine it was an easy fix and yes I had a few screws rusted out at the roof-line that I also replaced with rivets.

Safe travels,

[jamorton]

Rex,

Thank you for the additional detail. I found a place to get the proper caulk tomorrow, I will not be ready before then anyway. I will be using long rivets, and also 3/4" stainless screws. If those screws do not seem long enough, I can get 1" screws also. I will check on the patio side also.

Best Regards

Jim Morton

[Rex]

Be sure and put a bit of caulk on the rivet head after it is installed where the pull pin leaves a hole. Good to do just in case any water gets inside the baby bumper strip.