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digNbubbs · 07-03-2007, 07:02 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:
...
Do you have your inverter turned ON?? Turn the inverter OFF and check voltages again.

-Tom </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I do have it on. I typically never turn it off when I plug into shore power. However, when I did turn it off and checked, there was no change in the voltage. It seems, however, that all of the outlets that are on the same circuit as the inverter are the ones that are low. I can not speak in terms of "all" or "none", but of the outlets I can check, seems that is the pattern.

I just checked the outside post, and each leg is 111/112V, and across is ~237V. I am running 1 A/C (the other one is inop at the moment), water heater on gas, fridge on electric.

--kev

Pusherpilot · 07-03-2007, 07:03 AM

Pretty big imbalance on the two legs of the 50a circuit. Does your coach have a way to measure the amps on each circuit? Voltages as low as 104 are not good for the parts of the RV that have to run on it. If you have a meter, unplug the coach and measure the voltage at the plug on the pedestal. If it's low there too then the park is the problem. If the drop is seen after you plug in then you've got a problem in the coach. I've had the problem at a couple of parks and it usually is the receptacle on the pedestal that's the problem. High resistance will cause this.

Ron

ronboc · 07-03-2007, 09:16 AM

To expand on what pusherpilot said...

The high-resistance in the park-wiring could cause a low-voltage reading at the pedestal AFTER you plug in the coach - indicating that the coach is loading down the line (as it should) but the line isn't able to handle it, therefore it will begin to 'sag'. In either case, t'aint your fault, it's theirs.

I'm also a VERY strong advocate of a surge-protector (Progressive Industries, Surge-Guard, and probably more) that monitor high as well as low voltage conditions. Can't speak highly enough of them, when ya consider all the expensive & sensitive (kind of synonymous, ain't it?) stuff we have these days.

Mine works well (I have the Progressive Industries one), it's tripped off several times when line has gone over 135 V !!! You can also get 'em with remote voltage/current monitors for each leg.

I realize it may be closing the barn-door after the horses are out, but food for future thought.

Tom N · 07-03-2007, 09:19 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RonNBama:
Momma, the Kill-a-watt thingies are great. Cost is about $20-$25 and the toy is worth the investmant. You can see just how much power your coffee pot and hairdryer uses. I have verified the operation of my voltage booster by watching the display when a load kicks in. Neat gadget. Put on Sac's wish list.

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have a Kill-A-Watt but can't figure out a use for it. I can check voltage with a multimeter. All appliances list the wattage on their label. It would be useful if I could hard wire it in at the breaker box but the Kill-A-Watt will only handle a max of 1500 watts.

I often see them online for less than $20 shipping included.

Kill-A-Watt $18.89 http://www.supermediastore.com/kilwateldet1.html

-Tom

ronboc · 07-03-2007, 11:05 AM

Good point, Tom. They are a bit limited in their total capacity, but still have a lot of use nonetheless. I went thru the entire coach with mine and measured the load from each appliance/tool/etc, and then wrote it on the bottom/back with a Sharpee Marker.

Told wife that the maximum draw was 50amps (based on the sum of items involved) and any more was going to blow MY fuse as well as that of the coach. Seems to work well so far

Only one problem since then, and that was caused by .... well, let's just say she wasn't to blame

"007" · 07-04-2007, 07:24 AM

Check your transfer switch for loose wiring connections double check the ones going to your load center fuse box and also check terminations in the load box.
If you run your generator do you have different readings on your two sides of your load box.

RonNBama · 07-04-2007, 04:28 PM

I want to hear what you eventually find here. This is a perplexing problem. Keep us posted please.

As for the KillAWatt thing, it is limited in how much it can handle since it plugs into a 20-amp receptacle. I just keep mine plugged in all the time and can do a voltage/frequency check with a quick glance.

SacsTC · 07-04-2007, 05:40 PM

Bama,
Take a look under the RV systems forum for the newest on what he found.

digNbubbs · 07-04-2007, 09:58 PM

Thanks again for the replies. I posted this question in the RV Systems forum and got some more suggestions. Thread here - http://irv2.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/1356094452/m/1421065104

I took care of that burnt wire, but it is still fluctuating enough to make me think there is another loose connection.

As mentioned, I will try the generator tomorrow. Today, I used a 30->50A adapter and plugged into a 30A socket. Received the same results.

The only other interesting piece of info is that voltage drop doesn't occur as much at night. Tonight I ran a few appliances and watched the voltage drop very little. That hints to me that there may be an issue in the post, but it meters fine when I am unplugged.

--kev

RonNBama · 07-05-2007, 03:45 AM

Ahhhhh, I started to mention a neutral connection but I figured the voltage variance would have been much greater than what you were showing. I had that problem on the plug of my 50-amp cable and was getting 90V and one leg and 137 on the other!

Awwrrite! Chalk up another one for Internet TroubleShooting! Glad you got it fixed.

MonacoMama · 07-05-2007, 04:33 AM

Kev...
I am curious if you found what that wire feeds?

digNbubbs · 07-05-2007, 06:51 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MonacoMama:
Kev...
I am curious if you found what that wire feeds? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I did not figure that out.

kev

BurpL · 07-17-2007, 11:36 AM

Kev ,
I do not know if you are still fighting your problem but you may want to invest in a fox and hound type tester to find where that wire goes. There also is some concern over the discoloration at least to me on,the red wire in your picture. None of the neutrals should be brownish and from the looks of the neutral wire that burned there is a loose connection somewhere in the coach. Do they use romex in coaches or single wire type manufacturing ?

digNbubbs · 07-17-2007, 12:41 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by BurpL:
... Do they use romex in coaches or single wire type manufacturing ? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I am still chasing this a bit. I think I am chalking most of the voltage problem to the state park we were just in. We are now at another campground where only two of us are plugged into 50A service (heh - me and a 4-A/C unit Prevost), and I am having steady voltage now. I plan on having the factory follow up on the wiring when I take it into them.

AKAIK, there is Romex running throughout the coach for 120V service, and single wire for 12V.

Today I took the cover off of the front A/C and dug around a bit. If I had to guess, I think there is probably a problem with the compressor start capacitor. There is a bit of black ooze coming out the top. I drove around to several RV parts places and nobody seems to carry anything like that in stock.

I have a service appointment on Monday the 23rd for the A/C, but was hoping I could save myself the time by fixing it myself. We are about to melt here....

kev