Community Forums

vito.a · 09-19-2019, 02:58 PM

Are you removing the limiting straps and shocks to replace air bags?

hypoxia · 09-25-2019, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Happycarz

Do you already have an air drier purge valve. I have a new one, free for the taking. I’ll look at the part number on the box in the morning.

I did get Harry's purge valve and installed it today (Thanks Harry). I attempted to install it on the vehicle but in the end removed the dryer assembly and did it in the shop. I couldn't get enough pressure to put the snap ring in. Removing the dryer is very easy and installation in the shop was also very easy.

hypoxia · 09-25-2019, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vito.a

Are you removing the limiting straps and shocks to replace air bags?

They were folding towards the tires and rubbing against them which was cutting the fabric. I guess I need to put a bungee on them.

kenwyatt · 10-13-2019, 09:00 PM

Maybe you can give me some advice. I believe we have basically the same chassis and air bag system. I believe I have at least 1 bag leaking on the drivers front corner. Both my bags feed back to a small tank via A 1 1/4 braided line. The tank is feed thru a 3/8 plastic line from the manifold block. I have inserted a line there with a valve in it. After inflating the bags I closed the valve and they both deflated. I see nothing on the lines, tank, or bags using soapy water. What have I missed? 2 questions
1, Is the AS8897 for $119.28 what you used on the front
2, How did you get at the top fitting especially on the aft bag.

hypoxia · 10-14-2019, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenwyatt

1, Is the AS8897 for $119.28 what you used on the front
2, How did you get at the top fitting especially on the aft bag.

1. Yes, the same air spring is on all ten positions. Find it parts ran out of stock so the tenth bag I put in was this one https://www.finditparts.com/products...can-wa01-8897c All of the bags were ordered from Finditparts but were drop shipped from FleetPride.
2. I cut the hose at the fitting with a knife, removed the top two and bottom two nuts and used a crow bar to force the fitting through the hole which will snap the elbow fitting off. I put new elbows on so the old ones would be trash anyways. Your fitting may be smaller which would make that a moot point. The aft bags are the tag axle bags.

I'm a 155 pound runt of the litter and can scoot myself up through the structure and sit in there while removing the tag bags. Had to go in from each side as there isn't enough room to remove both bags from one entry point. Not much room in there so if I dropped anything I had to get out to retrieve it or use a magnet. You're gonna look like a coal miner.

I checked my air bags with soapy stuff but never did find a leak that way. I raised the coach as high as it would go one day and heard the leak as I was walking around it. You are losing air rapidly, I'm surprised you can't hear it unless it is going through a valve. Perhaps you need to make an ear horn. https://www.amazon.com/Over-Hearing-...2K2CG4WHXZ8BST

kenwyatt · 10-14-2019, 10:02 AM

Thanks, cutting the hose is not a option. The hose is a 1 1/4 in braided hose with the JIC fitting crimped on each end. Each bag has a hose that goes back to a small tank for just that corner. From the tank to the manifold is a single 1/4 plastic line. That is the place I inserted a valve to isolate the tank, lines and bags. Still had it leak off

CountryB · 10-14-2019, 10:21 AM

Ken, I'm not sure what kind of tools/equipment you have at your disposal - but what if you were to add some "fluorescent dye" to the air line then charge with air. Somewhere that air is leaking out and the dye may make that location easier to find.
I have a leak detection "black-light" kit that comes with different types of fluorescent dyes (for engine oil system, AC system, etc.). When its somewhat dark out, that black light does a great job at showing the smallest leaks. If you don't have a black-light, perhaps just the colored AC dye would work.

Another useful is the "Smoke detector". I dont have one of these (yet) but there are some inexpensive ones available - like this https://www.amazon.com/STINGER-Smoke...moke generator

kenwyatt · 10-14-2019, 01:49 PM

Good idea on smoke testing, may have to go that way. Right now it is a time factor. Need to make a trip on 11-1 and afraid to leave with a unknown suspension system

hockeydiesel · 10-14-2019, 05:18 PM

You need a short 1 1/4 open end ( about 6" long ) to remove the braided hoses. Then I could not get the fittings out in place- very tight. The fittings can be forced through the hole in the top plate. It takes an assortment of large screwdrivers, tire irons and pinch bars. Not easy, but it can be done. After you get the bags out and remove the fittings, grind the corners off the hex on the fittings so they will go back in easy.

kenwyatt · 10-14-2019, 06:20 PM

Still can not understand how I can have a leak off in about 30 minutes and not see anything with soap bubbles. Am I overthinking this? Just on the 1 corner

hypoxia · 10-14-2019, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenwyatt

Still can not understand how I can have a leak off in about 30 minutes and not see anything with soap bubbles. Am I overthinking this? Just on the 1 corner

Is it possibly back feeding through a solenoid valve? I was serious about the ear horn, you can easily make a cone from sheet metal or paper which amplifies the sound quite a bit.

Your HWH setup with the large hose going to the air springs is quite different than the later Valid hose setup. Hockeydiesel gave you some good info on removal.

CountryB · 10-15-2019, 07:03 AM

I was just reading about air system "leak detection" methods and on the TruckersReport site, it was said that you can put 134a into the air tank/system and use a refrigerant leak detector.
I'm not so sure how smart this is - but doesn't sound too bad/dangerous. What do you think? It might be expensive (I don't know how much (cans/pounds) it would take to work through the air system and be detectable)

Also, on the smoke generator idea - you would need to use a "high pressure smoke machine" (made for turbo/exhaust testing) as the other (most typical) type is low pressure (under 10 psi) for EVAP testing.
The high pressure smoke machines only go up to around 40 psi though (enough for testing a CAC, but maybe not enough for an air-brake system).

RustyTools · 10-15-2019, 07:22 AM

Sorry for the intrusion, but I'm a little confused on the smoke generator concept.

I'm assuming (and you know how that goes) it's to introduce smoke into the air line itself and look for smoke coming from a leak, correct? Sounds easier than the soap-bubble test.

However, I read the info about it on Amazon, and a comment from the mfgr said:
"Every system of every vehicle (including aircraft) needs to be evaluated individually to determine the safety of using vaporized oil in it. All smoke machines that vaporize oil to make the smoke will leave a thin residue of the vaporized oil behind, on the surfaces and internal components within whatever system you test. If there are any components which will be contacted by the smoke which could be negatively affected by oil contact, then no it is not safe."

Would that be a problem for our usage?

CountryB · 10-15-2019, 07:44 AM

There are smoke machines made for testing exhaust/turbo/charge-air-coolers on diesel engines. I don't see any mention of any residue causing problems in intake/turbo plumbing - so I would think it would be safe for air system. I don't know. But the air pressure they use is only around 40 psi (maybe not high enough to find very small leaks).

https://www.autoserviceprofessional....-got-em?Page=3

https://www.truckinginfo.com/203265/...-exhaust-leaks

Here is a tool designed specifically for tracking down air leaks in an air-brake system. Unfortunately it's expensive at $3,500 (on Amazon) - so not very practical for a single coach owner. Might be nice to find a shop with this tool and have them do the leak detection.
https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/i...anoleak-finder