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nodine · 07-13-2008, 08:30 AM

<span class="ev_code_RED">I decided it would be nice to have the Sani-Con on our motorhome so undertook the project. First I removed the factory 3 inch hose storage device to make room for the Sani-Con pump.

The Sani-Com pump draws about 15 amp so a good connection to the house battery with size 10 wire is necessary. The following photo shows where the circuit breaker was located. Both the positive and negative side of the battery is connected to the pump with size 10 wire. First stretch out the length of wire required to reach the pump in the service bay allowing for the crooks and turns to route over the frame. Place both conductors inside 1/2 split loom and route the cable from the battery compartment to the service bay. Be sure to avoid moving parts of the suspension and secure the cable with wire ties.

The following photo shows the power entering the service bay. Be sure when drilling the hole to avoid the fresh water tank.

As can be seen in this photo the tank is not far behind where the cable hole is drilled.

In this photo the pump is installed and ready to be connected to the battery. This was by far the most difficult part because it was hard to access the screws holding down the pump. I have a right angle attachment for my drill so making the pilot holes was not hard. Put the screws in was. I suggest putting in all the screws. You would not believe how much hydraulic force can be applied by the flexible 3 inch hose.

The original deck plate is to small for the Sani-Con sewer adapter to pass through. Also the deck plate is blocked by the 3 inch hose to the Sani-Con. This required the installation of a larger 6 inch deck plated located to the left.

An extra deck plated was purchased and the insert modified to accommodate the discharge hose when camping.

The completed pump installation. As can be seen the original deck plate is of little use.

Discharge hose in use with the modified deck plate insert.

The completed installation with the hose stored for travel.</span>

Bob

nodine · 07-13-2008, 08:30 AM

<span class="ev_code_RED">I decided it would be nice to have the Sani-Con on our motorhome so undertook the project. First I removed the factory 3 inch hose storage device to make room for the Sani-Con pump.

The Sani-Com pump draws about 15 amp so a good connection to the house battery with size 10 wire is necessary. The following photo shows where the circuit breaker was located. Both the positive and negative side of the battery is connected to the pump with size 10 wire. First stretch out the length of wire required to reach the pump in the service bay allowing for the crooks and turns to route over the frame. Place both conductors inside 1/2 split loom and route the cable from the battery compartment to the service bay. Be sure to avoid moving parts of the suspension and secure the cable with wire ties.

The following photo shows the power entering the service bay. Be sure when drilling the hole to avoid the fresh water tank.

As can be seen in this photo the tank is not far behind where the cable hole is drilled.

In this photo the pump is installed and ready to be connected to the battery. This was by far the most difficult part because it was hard to access the screws holding down the pump. I have a right angle attachment for my drill so making the pilot holes was not hard. Put the screws in was. I suggest putting in all the screws. You would not believe how much hydraulic force can be applied by the flexible 3 inch hose.

The original deck plate is to small for the Sani-Con sewer adapter to pass through. Also the deck plate is blocked by the 3 inch hose to the Sani-Con. This required the installation of a larger 6 inch deck plated located to the left.

An extra deck plated was purchased and the insert modified to accommodate the discharge hose when camping.

The completed pump installation. As can be seen the original deck plate is of little use.

Discharge hose in use with the modified deck plate insert.

The completed installation with the hose stored for travel.</span>

Bob

Sixpack98 · 07-13-2008, 11:49 AM

Bob,
Great job. The Sanicon is well worth the effort and you wont be sorry you installed it. Great idea adding and notching the deck plate. Good place to install it too. Mine is located in a horrible place and hard to get to. Think I'll copy if you don't mind.

mark

Robin_M · 07-13-2008, 01:25 PM

Great job, Bob. And a very nice write-up, as well. Like Mark just said, I think you'll find the Sani-con is worth the time you invested in it.

AKBrick · 07-13-2008, 03:56 PM

Fantastic job, Bob,
I'm envying your extra bay deck plate also. I only have one that you have to use for the sani-con hose, water hose and cable wire. It's located right underneath the black/grey water outlet. Luckily the outlet rotates upward so we can put the hoses throught the deck hole. I see a COOL project coming my way.

Thanks for the great pics!

AKBrick

danes-on-tour · 07-14-2008, 12:39 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Sixpack98:
Bob,
Great job. The Sanicon is well worth the effort and you wont be sorry you installed it. Great idea adding and notching the deck plate.

mark </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I can only agree

. We use ours all the time and should we ever buy another coach some time in the future, this will also have a Sani-con unit installed.

Our unit is supposed tobe able to work by gravity alone, if you open for example the grey water valve. This way it should work like a normal sewer hose connection. We have never been able to get this to work - even when the grey water tank is completely full.

Did anyone experience this?

nodine · 07-14-2008, 01:05 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Sixpack98:
Bob,
Great job. The Sanicon is well worth the effort and you wont be sorry you installed it. Great idea adding and notching the deck plate. Good place to install it too. Mine is located in a horrible place and hard to get to. Think I'll copy if you don't mind.

mark </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Mark, et al,

Please feel free to copy or ask questions. That is one of the main reasons we make posts like this so we can share information and experience. I always learn things from my visits to irv2 and am glad to give a little back.

Bob

nodine · 07-14-2008, 01:11 AM

My thanks to MonacoMamma who helped get my photos to display. She brings so much to this site in both personality and effort.

Bob

nodine · 07-14-2008, 01:21 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">

Our unit is supposed tobe able to work by gravity alone, if you open for example the grey water valve. This way it should work like a normal sewer hose connection. We have never been able to get this to work - even when the grey water tank is completely full.

Did anyone experience this? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Great Dane,

My gray water drains just fine with the gray valve open and the black closed through the small clear tube used for that purpose. I assume you have removed the cap on the end of the adapter so may I suggest you take off the 3 inch hose where it attaches to the pump. That will allow you to see the area where the small clear by-pass tube was added to the large pipe fitting. This is, I think, a hand modification performed at the factory and the right angle adapter that is screwed into the large pipe fitting my be blocked. I wish I had taken a photo of this area when I had the 3 inch hose off but I did not. If you remove the large flexible hose you will see what I am talking about. I cut about 10 inches off of my hose because it was to long. Make sure to get the rubber band looking gasket back over the large pipe fitting before slipping the 3 inch hose back on.

By the way, if you don't have the clear plastic tube between the 3 inch side of the pump and the 1 inch discharge tube then you do not have gray water by-pass. I think there were early units made without the by-pass. If that is the case, it would be easy to add.

Bob

Nonno · 07-14-2008, 03:48 AM

Assuming the clear hose in the 5th picture posted by nodine is the hose you're talking about, I can't get my gravity feature to work either.

Hope to have it fixed when I get to the HR Rally in Goshen.

Robin_M · 07-14-2008, 05:13 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Our unit is supposed tobe able to work by gravity alone, if you open for example the grey water valve. This way it should work like a normal sewer hose connection. We have never been able to get this to work - even when the grey water tank is completely full. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Great Dane,

You can see the short clear gray water bypass hose in nodine's picture here. The following is information I've picked up by reading other threads... There are a couple of problems that people have reported with the gray water bypass. Sometimes the inlet side of the bypass hose gets clogged or won't pick up the gray water. Some people have resolved this problem by backing the nipple threads out one turn to make the bypass hose inlet flush with the interior wall of the fitting. Also users have reported that the Sani-Con discharge hose has to have a fairly straight and level route to the campground drain for the bypass to work properly. In addition, the bypass hose sometimes gets blocked, and the only solution is to remove and clean it out.

danes-on-tour · 07-14-2008, 05:22 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Bob Russo:
Assuming the clear hose in the 5th picture posted by nodine is the hose you're talking about, I can't get my gravity feature to work either.

Hope to have it fixed when I get to the HR Rally in Goshen. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I think mine looks like this and my Sani-con unit definitely reads "grey water bypass" on the side. Maybe I should take it all to pieces next time I have a cold and a blocked up nose

Nodine - yes, I did remove the end cap, and if i didn't I would be to embarrassed to tell you

Bob - drop us a line if you spot the problem.

Thanks

Lukeaa · 07-14-2008, 09:12 PM

Occasionally, my gray water bypass will clog, but I have found that if I flip on the Sani-con switch for about three seconds, it blasts the clog out of the bypass tube.