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Old 07-15-2019, 08:30 AM   #1
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Sauer-Danfoss fan controller

I have a 2005 Windsor, 400 ISL, with side radiator and Sauer-Danfoss fan controller. Mine failed about 5 years ago and it has started failing again. A few years back, the price for the controller was $1100-1300. Does anyone know of the best price and source for a replacement now? Also, what is the correct part #? Any information on will be appreciated.
I know the SD is newer technology, but I’m again considering a wax valve, such as offered by Source Engineering. The SD seems to be prone to failure and it is more expensive than the wax valve.
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Old 07-15-2019, 08:50 AM   #2
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There was five page thread on this subject just a week ago. Here's the link to the page with info for a new pump (different manufatcure and much cheaper).
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/saue...ml#post4848739

Post back your results.
Good luck
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Old 07-15-2019, 08:54 AM   #3
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FWIW
Over on Yahoo Monacoers one owner decided his controller was mounted wrong ,
with the wires facing up which allowed moisture to eventually creep inside .
He reported that after digging out the potting allowing the controller to dry out
it worked again .

You can unplug the controller and the fan should run fast all the time .

Ray
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:16 AM   #4
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Ray, I did the reverse mount to reposition wires on the one that has now gone bad, which you referred too in your post. Also, the potting being dug out seems to be very tedious since there wires embedded. Not sure if I’m up to that project, knowledge wise!
I do think much of the SD problem has to do with electrical sensitivity.
I have reviewed the discussion which CountryB mentioned, but much of the Sauer-Danfoss seems to be their pumps, not controller.
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:27 AM   #5
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On ours, I also found that the wires could be part of the problem. I clipped the harness of wire ties that Monaco had tightly secured the wires in and stretched them out and have one or two intermittent problems a year. I did run a new ignition 12v +(fused) from the rear run box to the controller but mostly have determined that it is not as much the controller as it is the external wiring on mine that is the problem. Either an intermittent open caused by temp change or a broken wire. The harness was tightened down extremely tight and the wires had many crimping bends in them. This may not be your problem but has helped me limp alone without replacing it for 12-1300 dollars. I did communicate with an engineer at Danfoss and there may be other new or used controllers out there with preset parameters near what yours has, and they can tell you that from the part number. My part number he informed me has been superceeded but has same parameters. Using Google you can find danfoss dealers who may also provide assistance. If I have to replace mine, I will probably consider the Wax valve kit from Source also, mainly because of the price and others seem to be happy with it. Hope this may help, Happy Trails Bert
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Old 07-15-2019, 10:02 AM   #6
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If you decide to switch to a wax valve, this thread has great info:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/fan-...en-376611.html

Our controller also failed and I replaced it with a wax controller and it has worked very well.
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Old 07-15-2019, 11:22 AM   #7
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Vito.a, did you use the Source Engineering valve kit or another wax valve? I’ve read through these posts, but most did not originally have the Sauer-Danfoss conroller, which is not a wax valve.
I’m going to clean the connectors and see if the SD electronics are not communicating properly with the Motorhome.
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Old 07-15-2019, 12:37 PM   #8
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I agree. Clean the connections first. That didn't help me.
I bought the wax valve on eBay. Jeremy helped me out with the fittings I needed.

The only difficult part was removing the steel coolant pipe and welding the fitting for the wax valve in it. I also had the pipe sand blasted and powder coated so it came out very nice.

I had to adjust the wax valve a couple of times on our first road trip but it's set pretty close to 200 degrees now. Jeremy and some of the other guys added an adjustable needle valve that is working well. They are trying to get the fan turning at idle to cool the A/C condenser. My A/C condenser is up front so I didn't really need the extra needle valve.

Read through the "Fan Stuck Wide Open" thread. I learned a lot about this system from these guys.
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:29 AM   #9
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After all that I have read about the electronic fan controller failures, I just replaced mine with the wax valve. I purchased the kit from Source Engineering because I did not want to spend the time finding the correct fittings, getting hoses made and then having to adjust the orifice to get the correct fan speed. The difference in cost was just not worth it. I installed mine on the thermostat housing. I had originally intended to put it on the solid piping to the rad, but it was too difficult to get the piece out of the coach due to the way they had routed it.
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Old 07-17-2019, 07:37 PM   #10
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Sauer-Danfoss fan controller

OP was unsure of the cost of a new fan controller and where to get one. I purchased new from the factory through the REV Group for ball park $2250 w/ a 90 day delivery. I had read all threads about the needle valve/wax valve an also talked to SE. My concern was how does the computer know what is wrong if it is bypassed. I am100% satisfied with the new controller as installed out of the box with not adjustments required. That alone is worth a lot to me. Also there is a place that will rebuild your old control for around $650 but may not last like new. My new control kicks in at 204 and out at 199 degrees just like they call for. Quite a difference in the cost of different options but it only took 15 min. to take off old control and install the new one. So some savings as no new lines and no welder and antifreeze to pay for. Peace of mind is priceless.
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Old 07-18-2019, 04:09 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moondaddy View Post
My concern was how does the computer know what is wrong if it is bypassed.

My new control kicks in at 204 and out at 199 degrees just like they call for.
The engine ECM monitors coolant temperature. If engine gets too hot it will throw out a code (turn on Warning light) and possibly derate (reduce power). The ECM doesn't know or care what type of fan controller you have - it only cares about the engine's temperature.
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Old 07-18-2019, 05:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryB View Post
The engine ECM monitors coolant temperature. If engine gets too hot it will throw out a code (turn on Warning light) and possibly derate (reduce power). The ECM doesn't know or care what type of fan controller you have - it only cares about the engine's temperature.
Using Cummins Insite you can see the fan RPM going up and down. It is not a Low and High speed switch as long as the Danfoss controller is operational, it is a Variable Speed Controller. It defaults to High speed if it fails.

My last coach controller lasted for 10 years and this one lasted for 10 years. I will stay with the Danfoss controller as long as the durability stays the same and the price is reasonable. I paid around $700 for one a year or two ago and would not pay the $2000+ price I saw on an earlier post.

http://www.whitehouseproductsltd.com...7%2f210&page=1

I received a call from White House Products in Scotland a few days ago, nice folks. That is where I would get the wax valve if I ever switch. Here's an excerpt from them:
White House Products Ltd are Worldwide suppliers of:
Hydraulic Gear Pumps - Over 6000 specifications held in stock ! - Choose from the World's largest range of hydraulic pumps, Hydraulic Gear Motors, High Torque Motors, Steering Units, Valves, Fittings, Adaptors, Cylinders, Vane Pumps, Piston Pumps, Filters, Hose, Hose Clips...

We have known consignor status which means we can clear the goods for airfreight on our premises, eliminating the delays caused by customs screening. This means that goods dispatched before 1400 hrs from White House Products can be delivered the next day to our US customers.
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Old 07-28-2019, 03:03 PM   #13
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Hypoxia, where did you find your new Fan controller. I lthink I have finally come to the end and will have to look at replacing mine. thanks for the information. Happy trails Bert
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Old 07-28-2019, 06:09 PM   #14
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Sauer-Danfoss

FYI, I just had a SD #11163020 fail. It was slightly over 3 yrs old. I ordered another one before realizing it had not lasted longer- time flies! Got new one at Berendsen Fluid Power. The main office is in OK.
I probably should have gone with a wax valve. $700-800 is not good for less than 4 yrs.
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