Shock Absorbers.......Again

[Galvanizd]

Yeah, I know, you guys are probably tired of hearing about this but I've never changed mine and am thinking about doing it myself. Just a bit concerned that I don't screw it up on my 2003 Dipl rr8r. Original Monro's still on there at 60000 miles.

I get encouragement when I read about some of you changing 8 shocks in an hour or so. That means I can probably get it done in about 8 hours. One shock an hour, yeah that's about right.

I'm not a mechanic (obviously) but I do my own maintenance, oil, fuel filters etc., so hopefully it won't be a bear.

Got a 3/8 air gun (Nodine, tks) and a couple of large wrenches. Gonna turn the wheels to do 2 then turn and do the other 2 (Dipl Don tks) Wear eye protection (sorry can't remember who posted that but tks). Shox.com tks to who posted that.

Here's the dumb question. Do the old shocks just unbolt and the new ones bolt right on? Seems too easy. Do the bolts to the shocks just get snugged on tight or do they need to be torqued to a certain tightness?
Anything in particular to watch out for?
Am I making a bigger deal out of this than it really is?

And yes, the new shocks will be Koni FSD, whether I do it or some else does the work.

Thanks.

[ziaptrn]

I did them (all 8) myself on a 2000 Diplomat on the RR8R chassis.

It took about 1 week for me to get a bolt undone on the Right Front. The threads had stripped inside the nut. Finally thought to try a nut splitter (thanks Harbor Freight), which worked perfectly.

I replaced the bolt and nut with Grade 8 bolts from Lowes. Just take in the old one and get one just like it.

I understand that there are 2 'styles' of shocks, so you'll have to crawl under and look. Mine had eyelets on both top and bottom, but I understand that some have a stud and nut on top and an eyelet on the bottom. Supposedly, the stud/nut are more difficult.

Changing the shocks was done at ground level and no jacks or lifts. It helps to get at the fronts by turning the wheels right and left as needed. Spray liquid wrench or similar on the bolts the day before and it makes it easy work.

The fronts took about 15-20 minutes each; the rears, about 10 minutes each. I consider myself moderately mechanically inclined. Probably the hardest part is crawling up under the rig and looking up while you unbolt things and dirt wants to drop in your eyes. Hint: use eye shield/glasses or something.

I did have to use a file to remove a few high spots on the upper mounting studs on the outer 2 fronts - but again, this took maybe 10 strokes per side just to make them slide on more easily. I've heard of some using soap??? The upper mounting studs are welded to the frame. The shocks slide onto the studs, which are threaded on the ends on the tops.The lowers are simple bolts and nuts with washers; yes, it is just like it looks.

I used a torque wrench per the specs from Monaco to snug the nuts down.

Afterwards, check and adjust the ride height (also very easy to do)

Now she drives like a dream....well worth the time, expense, and effort.

So - in a nutshell - YOU CAN DO IT!

John S.

[Diplomat Don]

Galvanized.....Yours is a little older, so the nuts/bolts might be tougher to break loose. A 3/8's air gun/ratchet will probably NOT do the trick. It will work once you break them loose, but you really need a 1/2 air impact.

The only ones I had difficulty with were the two at the front on the rears. I couldn't get a hand up there to trun the nut. I placed a wrench on the top nut and used a large pair of Channelocks to spin the upper shock tube. The wrench locked against the frame and I just twisted the upper body of the shock. They came right out.

[DriVer]

Koni FSDs seem to be very popular. Is anyone here running the FSDs on their Roadmaster?

I would agree strongly with DD that a 3/8" air gun will not budge the fasteners on these shock absorbers.

[Abnmarine]

I just did mine yesterday and a 1/2 impact wouldn't break them loose. Ended up using a ratchet with a pipe to gain more leverage. Once it began to turn I used the impact. Torque the bolts to spec. Total time for all 4 was about 35 minutes.

[Jimmyzw22]

Don't make a big deal out of it it really is not tough at all. Just wear safety goggles. It's easier than changing your oil on your car. Don't have an air gun? Use a ratchet. You just need to wiggle them off of the top stud if yours has them. My RR8R Roadmaster had studs at the top and Nut and Bolt on the bottom. The FSD's made a huge improvement on all aspects of the driving experience. Lots of dollars but well worth it for the ride.

[Galvanizd]

Took a look at the fronts. Eyelet at bottom , stud and nut at the top. Can't see the backs right now. Fronts look fairly easy. Gonna try those first. Gonna order some shocks prbly next week. May have to stand at a freeway onramp with a cup and a sign to pay for them but I figure it'll be all good when we head out for the summer next month. . thanks all for the assist.

[nodine]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Galvanizd Took a look at the fronts. Eyelet at bottom , stud and nut at the top. Can't see the backs right now. Fronts look fairly easy. Gonna try those first. Gonna order some shocks prbly next week. May have to stand at a freeway onramp with a cup and a sign to pay for them but I figure it'll be all good when we head out for the summer next month. . thanks all for the assist.

Trust me Galvanizd, you will be very pleased with the ride and handling after you put the Koni FSD's on. You will think it is a different coach.

When you come across a very tight bolt that your 3/8 drive air wrench will not break loose hold down on the trigger and let the air wrench stall and then push on the air wrench to use it as a manual wrench. Once the bolt breaks loose then proceed as usual using the air wrench to remove it.

You can use a torque wrench if you don't feel confident about how tight or loose the bolt is, but if you are using the 3/8 " air wrench just listen to the sound and when it seems to be stalled you have the bolt plenty tight. After all, we are not putting a head on an engine here.

Bob

[Abnmarine]

Might be best to spray the bolts now with penetrating oil now to help break them free.

[Campingman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abnmarine I just did mine yesterday and a 1/2 impact wouldn't break them loose. Ended up using a ratchet with a pipe to gain more leverage. Once it began to turn I used the impact. Torque the bolts to spec. Total time for all 4 was about 35 minutes.

Same with me. Didn't have alot of room for the pipe.

[Diplomat Don]

Galvanized......Since yours have the studs at the top, remove the bottom bolt, put a box end wrench on the upper nut and twist the (upper) outer shock housing with your hands, the shocks will probably come loose. If not, break the nut loose with the wrench and then use your hands to just unscrew the shock by the housing. This is a lot easier than trying to get to that upper nut. Install the new ones the same way...get the nut started and twist the shock housing.

Okay....now that you have all of this expert information....you're under a lot of pressure to perform!! :-)

[Galvanizd]

Good info. Pressures on. You guys been holding my hand long enough. I'll report back as soon as I get it going. thanks again