Shorted out the TriMark power lock system

[JohnCamelot]

I was doing some rewiring under the dash and I accidentally shorted out the TriMark module (door lock brain, under the dash). I wish everyone used the same power color codes (red +, black -) but it was really my fault.

Now I have no 12VDC and I can't find the fuse. However, the door "chime" regularly gave a single beep, like an error code. Now that has stopped, as well. Everything else seems to work OK but I can't use the power locks.

Anyone have any suggestions where to find this fuse? Or any other suggestions? According to the wiring diagram (which I have) it is in the harness but the only one I found is still OK.

Thanks for your help...

== John

[JohnCamelot]

Follow-up: the red wire (12V+) does have a fuse in it, but it is a 5A while the diagram calls for a 20A. Also, I checked the 5A fuse and it is OK. So maybe there is another fuse somewhere? It is in the harness labeled C16 (FIREWALL) but I can't find it...

== John

[Mandys Man]

F87 shows lock and unlock door. Should be a resettable C/B. Probably in the front run bay.

[Twomed]

FRB labeled (Bay Act) only M would call a door lock that.
Went and looked it's even worse than I remembered, it's labeled D/S Actr and P/S Actr for Driver side/Passenger side Actuator!!! Bizarre!!
Good Luck

[nodine]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnCamelot I was doing some rewiring under the dash and I accidentally shorted out the TriMark module (door lock brain, under the dash). I wish everyone used the same power color codes (red +, black -) but it was really my fault. Now I have no 12VDC and I can't find the fuse. However, the door "chime" regularly gave a single beep, like an error code. Now that has stopped, as well. Everything else seems to work OK but I can't use the power locks. Anyone have any suggestions where to find this fuse? Or any other suggestions? According to the wiring diagram (which I have) it is in the harness but the only one I found is still OK. Thanks for your help... == John

John,

Our coaches are quite different but my Tri-Mark module has an inline fuse only about 2 inches from the module. Locate the module and check to see if you have a fuse there.

Bob

[JohnCamelot]

Yes, I found the inline fuse but it was OK. After some additional checking, I found a blown 5A fuse on the main DC panel under the drivers window. Found it by checking every fuse, as none are labeled. All is well again.

What had me confused is the Monaco schematics clearly showed a 20A fuse inline. The inline fuse was 5A and OK so it wasn't the problem. Anyhoo, it helps to have the schematics but you have to be prepared to be somewhat creative...

== John

[Twomed]

Ok...so weird labels are better than no labels.

[Wayne M]

Those fuses are packed with smoke, in China. When the smoke is released they have to be sent back for repacking of smoke.

I don't have a Monaco, but I'd stick with the 5 amp fuse and not put a 20 amp in its place. There is no way a keypad module is going to need 20 amp. The 5 amp has protected it all along and did its job when it got shorted out.

Good luck.

[nodine]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne M ....... ..... There is no way a keypad module is going to need 20 amp. The 5 amp has protected it all along and did its job when it got shorted out. Good luck.

It depends on what options are used with the Tri-Mark module. Our motorhome does not have the power compartment door locks so the only load the Tri-Mark is controlling is the single door lock and the running lights. It flashes the running lights when you lock/unlock the coach. Some motorhomes use the Tri-Mark to unlock all the storage compartment doors and operate an alarm system. Current surges could be higher than 5 amps on those systems.

Bob