Shurflo Water Pump - Fuse Location? Monaco Diplomat

[Podivin]

Before you buy a new pump while hoping it's not just a blown fuse, you could test the voltage at the wires going in to the pump.
If you're going to replace the pump you have to disconnect those wires anyway, so you might as well check to see whether or not there's 12 volts there to see if that's really the problem.
If there's not 12 volts at the pump then you know that there is something electrically amiss somewhere.

[ereadingrv]

Originally Posted by Podivin

Before you buy a new pump while hoping it's not just a blown fuse, you could test the voltage at the wires going in to the pump.
If you're going to replace the pump you have to disconnect those wires anyway, so you might as well check to see whether or not there's 12 volts there to see if that's really the problem.
If there's not 12 volts at the pump then you know that there is something electrically amiss somewhere.

We do have a Voltmeter so I think we're going to do that. We're also going to buy a new pump anyway. I spoke to Shurflo a few minutes prior to writing this response, and they told me most of the information out there about our pump and its replacement is incorrect.

I want to have a backup pump for in the future, so we're not running around trying to find a new one. Besides that, the replacement for ours has some (according to them) nice improvements, including better psi, 3gpm vs. 2.8gpm, and quieter operation.

[ereadingrv]

[QUOTE=ereadingrv;3768465]Just FYI for anyone with a 99 Diplomat and trying to deal with a failed or failing water pump:

According to Shurflo's WRITTEN sheets, the 2088-403-444 was replaced by the 4028-100-E54. For 2088-403-444 owners, this is INCORRECT!

I spoke with a technical support representative at Shurflo today. This is the actual, verified (twice) information on replacing the 2088-403-444 pump:

First, Shurflo 2088-403-444 & 2088-403-144 are the same pump. The numerical difference merely differentiates between the retail and OEM versions, which are otherwise identical. This pump operated at 2.8gpm with 45psi.

It has been replaced (roughly 5 years ago from the date of this post) by the Revolution model number:4008-101-E65 (Retail – 2 Yr. Warranty) & 4008-101-A65 (OEM – 1 Yr. Warranty). This pump operates at 3.0gpm with 55psi.

We hope someone finds this information useful!

[YC1]

Don't throw parts at it. You can easily install more problems than you have.

These pumps are dumb motors. They need positive and negative. Simple as that.

I assume you can get to the two wires that power it and should be able to see if you have voltage across the two wires.

Grab a couple of thumb tacks or pins to pierce the wires.

If you do not have voltage between the two wires, then be sure to take the negative lead wire to a good ground to check again.

IF you do not have any voltage. Grab a long piece of wire and run it to your battery and then to the pump lead. Touch it briefly. If it takes off you now know you need to chase backwards.

You may have a water pump controller so just putting a pump in is not a good decision..

Grab your smart phone and put it into the video recording mode. Follow the wires from the pump even if you cannot see it because of things in the way.

Play the video back and you may see things you cannot see because of panels etc.

[HJLowell]

I have a fuse in the bedroom on the driver's side.

Rear cabinet door.
There are about 10 fuses in the plastic box.