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Old 09-22-2009, 11:56 AM   #1
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Slide Adjustment

The front driver's side (galley and couch) on our coach has started making a scraping sound when the slide is extended. The noise comes from the bottom rear of the slide. It appears the rear end of the slide needs to be raised a fraction of an inch.

Does anybody know if and how the slide can be adjusted so there is more clearance between the bottom of the slide and the floor of the coach?

Thanks
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Old 09-22-2009, 12:56 PM   #2
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those slides generally have a roller or two so they roll out...perhaps the rolling mechanism is in need of lube. There is also a track that tends to "lift" that slide and along with the rollers..do the job..mine makes a bit of noise sometimes due to the rollers on the tile but no harm done.
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:56 PM   #3
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Probably a loose rooler, there is a procedure for adjusting the slide roolers but not sure the old procedure I have would be correct for a 06 coach , have a look in the cabnet area for at least two roolers and one should be up front and probaly have to get at it in the left front wheel cavity out side. If you have to adjust them be sure to use loctite on the nuts.



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Old 09-26-2009, 10:03 AM   #4
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Ours does a similar thing. In our case it is the plumbing guides that are supposed to keep the pipes and wires from binding as the slide opens and closes. Remove the panels from under the sink and take a look in there, you may have a drain pipe scraping on something.
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Old 09-26-2009, 12:55 PM   #5
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Pusher there is a file on the MCOA web site in the file section at Modifications and improvements and click on pictures then page 4 that might help with this problem on the drain.

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Old 09-27-2009, 03:00 PM   #6
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Walt,
I went to the MCOA website (I assumed you meant the Yahoo site) and there were no photos or modifications section. Maybe I went to the wrong place. Please advise.
Thanks,
Dick
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Old 09-27-2009, 05:14 PM   #7
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Dick i dont know what happened to MCOA file section but it is no longer there but not to worry Bill D site Yahoo Monacoers has the info but it was in two places, this is long but I will past the instructions then a link to the pictures.

Walt

FIX FOR BROKEN KITCHEN SINK SLIDE-OUT WHITE FLEX DRAIN LINE:
The problem is that when the coaches slide-out is retracted (closed)
there is a severe bend on the flexible drain hose. This downward
bend sometimes breaks the flexible drain hose.
This fix eliminates the sliding track mechanism used by Monaco and
replaces it with a swivel fitting so at the point where the white flex
hose is being bent it can swivel down when the slide-out is retracted.
There is a very good Brass/Aluminum 1-1/2 inch swivel fitting that
only costs $24.00 BUT, take note, the vendor has a $100.00 minimum
order. The vendor is EZflo Nozzle & Equipment Company, (626)
967-6284, Gary is who I talked to. The part number is VEZ36S1-1/2
and it is called EZ-flo 1-1/2" Straight Swivel. Their WEB site is:
http:/www.ez-flo.com
The first photo (Photo Z) shows the looped 1-1/2 inch white flexible
drain line when the slide is extended. The problem is that when the
slide is retracted (closed) the area where the lower arrow is, is
where the flex line breaks. This is where it would be nice if the
fitting could swivel down 20 to 30 degrees when the slide-out is
retracted. The upper arrow points to Monaco's slide mechanism that
will be removed.
The other five photos describe what to do. As you read this look at
the following five photos marked A through E.
PHOTO A is an end shot that shows the swivel fitting snap ring.
PHOTO B: The left side is the swivel fitting. Before installation
you should remove the snap ring and twist and pull the fitting so it
is pulled out as shown on the right side of photo B. It will not pull
apart so don't be concerned about that. This lubricates the O-ring so
it swivels easier. Then twist and push it back together and reinstall
the snap ring.
PHOTO C: Shows what the plumbing would look like when the slide is
out (extended). Notice that the loop made by the white flex drain
line is a LONG loop and there is no downward bending pressure on the
flex line where it joins the Schedule 40 fitting because the flex line
is going straight out of the Schedule 40 fitting. This is how the
flex line looks when the slide-out is extended.
By the way, on my coach I used white Schedule 40 fittings to connect
the white flex line because the Schedule 40 fittings have more depth
so the flex line can be pushed in further with the cement and it has
more surface area for a good bond. The black drain line fittings only
have half the depth of a Schedule 40 fitting and therefore poorer
bonding. Always use transition cement when you join a white pipe to a
black pipe because they are different plastics.
NOTE: For the stability of the drain pipe, the brass nut part of the
swivel fitting must be VERY FIRMLY secured to the cabinet under the
sink. The securing of the brass nut part of the swivel fitting takes
the place of the current sliding-track mechanism. If the brass nut is
secured it keeps the black pipe from breaking during movement and it
also holds the swivel fitting firm when it swivels downward. You
should also secure the black pipe so there are two points secured to
the sink cabinet so there is no twisting motion on this drain pipe.
PHOTO D: Like photo C this is the slide-out when extended. Notice
that the connection at the flex pipe is level (horizontal to the coach
floor). In other words, it goes straight out toward the center of the
coach. No problem here because there is no downward bending pressure
at the flex line to Schedule 40 fitting.
PHOTO E: This is how the plumbing would look when the slide-out is
fully retracted. Because there was a swivel fitting, the connection
between the flex line and the Schedule 40 fitting has turned down 30
to 40 degrees. This has eliminated the severe downward bending
pressure at the junction of the flex line and the Schedule 40 fitting.
Then, when the slide out is again extended the flex line to Schedule
40 fitting goes back to level (horizontal to the coaches floor) or
straight like that shown in both photos C and D. The swivel fitting
allows this movement.
NOTE: Consider using a galvanized or brass 90 degree fitting to
connect to the Aluminum end of the swivel fitting because it must be
screwed down VERY tightly so the swivel point stays within the swivel
fitting itself and does NOT start swiveling where the threads of the
90 degree fitting are screwed into the swivel fitting.
Regarding "screwed down very tightly," as you already know if you
screw a plastic fitting VERY tightly into a metal fitting the sharp
metal-fittings threads will cut deeply into the plastic and weaken it
so it may break in a year or so.
One more reminder, make sure you also secure the black pipe to the
sink cabinet framework as well as the brass nut on the swivel fitting
so there are two points that are well secured. Do not hinder the the
movement of the Aluminum side of the swivel fitting.



http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Monaco...11162/pic/list
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:01 PM   #8
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Thank you Walt.
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