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Old 02-09-2013, 01:29 PM   #1
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Slide relay modification

I saw some time ago a post from someone who had the drawing and procedure to enable slide movement with the engine running. We missed the Q rally because our kitchen slide has become very difficult at times to retract if not plugged in to shore power.
Ours is a 2006 Diplomat with electric slide motors.
Also a small amount ot red gear oil is leaking from the gear box of that motor. Think I can tighten the bolts and fix that maybe, but need the drawing to jumper the relay.
Thanks
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:35 PM   #2
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I think this may be it. Been a while since I posted that.

Slide Issue - 2002 Diplomat
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 38 Special View Post
I think this may be it. Been a while since I posted that.

Slide Issue - 2002 Diplomat
Thanks 38, but don't have reference to where relay is located that disables slides when ignition is on or how to wire across it so it doesn't do that My slide works slow but OK when plugged in and may be OK with gen running should try that but would like to run engine and operate slides at same time.
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:35 PM   #4
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Thanks 38, but don't have reference to where relay is located that disables slides when ignition is on or how to wire across it so it doesn't do that My slide works slow but OK when plugged in and may be OK with gen running should try that but would like to run engine and operate slides at same time.
Ok, I went back and found Marcum's email to me of 10-9-2010.

This is what he said.

--------

You make a jumper connection between the load side of the 5 and 25 amp fuses. And you remove relay R-5, the ignition disable relay.

------

So, find those two fuses on the board. Pull the fuses and with a test light, find out which side of the fuse holder is hot on both the 5 and 25. Make a jumper wire with ends that look like the fuse and jump between the 5 and 25 hot sides. The pull the relay out marked ignition disable.

Now your slides will go in out out with the engine running or not.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:04 PM   #5
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I was having similar problems with my slide and finally it just quit. I replaced the relay or solenoid and it worked but not great. Finally I replaced the switch and it works better than ever.
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:25 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 38 Special View Post
You make a jumper connection between the load side of the 5 and 25 amp fuses. And you remove relay R-5, the ignition disable relay.

------

So, find those two fuses on the board.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Which 5 and 25 amp fuses? What are they labeled?
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggerjer View Post
I saw some time ago a post from someone who had the drawing and procedure to enable slide movement with the engine running. We missed the Q rally because our kitchen slide has become very difficult at times to retract if not plugged in to shore power.
Ours is a 2006 Diplomat with electric slide motors.
Also a small amount ot red gear oil is leaking from the gear box of that motor. Think I can tighten the bolts and fix that maybe, but need the drawing to jumper the relay.
Thanks
Our same slide motor leaks the same red liquid. I disassembled the gear mechanism in an attempt to fix the leak but was not successful. There is an o-ring around the shaft which I replaced but it still leaks the liquid settlement part of the red grease. I ended up building a catch pan to go under the gear box because our chairs are below the darn thing in the slide tray. That is how we knew it was leaking in the first place because the oily red liquid part of the grease would drip on our chairs.

Bob
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:53 AM   #8
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are you sure that the hot side of the fuse socket is the one that needs the jumper? It seems that the "load" side would be the other side by definition.
Guess I can try it either way as there is no harm in jumpering power to power.
Thanks much for the info, I'll post back with results.
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggerjer View Post
are you sure that the hot side of the fuse socket is the one that needs the jumper? It seems that the "load" side would be the other side by definition.
Guess I can try it either way as there is no harm in jumpering power to power.
Thanks much for the info, I'll post back with results.
You are correct. Sorry. It has been three years and a motorhome ago, plus I have slepped since then
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Old 02-10-2013, 04:39 PM   #10
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Thanks 38,
I am assumiong you put the fuses back in after the jumper was inserted, with no schematic I am blind here on this.
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Old 02-10-2013, 04:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggerjer View Post
are you sure that the hot side of the fuse socket is the one that needs the jumper? It seems that the "load" side would be the other side by definition.
Guess I can try it either way as there is no harm in jumpering power to power.
Thanks much for the info, I'll post back with results.
There might be some jumping 25A power to a 5A circuit! IMHO
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:52 PM   #12
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I tested on my 08 cayman, I think #12 (or #20) fuse in the front left compartment If I pull that fuse slides will move while running.

I want to add a switch because I dont always want the ability to move slides while running. Only while setting up or breaking down.

If the ignition interlock was permanently disabled, I would hate for the slide switches to get bumped while going down the road.
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:22 PM   #13
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Some have suggested making slide movement dependent on parking brake engagement which I think is a great idea but without schematic I have no idea how to engineer that.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:55 PM   #14
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I searched all through the electrical diagrams for information on the park brake switch. Best I can find is when park brake switch is in, switch is open and when park brake switch is pulled, switch is grounded.

I am not sure what other devices are sensing ground from this switch and if they would be sensitive to 12v that's why I added the diode.

I also wouldnt want to try and power the ignition accessories from the devices sensing ground from this switch. Thats why the 2nd diode.


Something like this would work for mine. because I have confirmed operation of slides while engine is running and #12 fuse is removed.

It would also keep the operation as it is normally (slide works with key off) and it would not keep the relay energized while parked or while riding down the road. Only while park brake is engaged and ignition is on.

If you start the coach without park brake slides wont work(normal operation), If you set the park brake without the coach on slides will work (normal operation)

If however you have the coach running and brake is applied it will disable the interlock and allow slides to work.

let me know if you have questions.
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