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Old 08-04-2006, 09:34 AM   #1
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Hello,

I am having a problem with keeping the sliding closet doors in the track. (upper) These are mirrored doors and fairly heavy. I've had it back to Wakarusa once for repair and it didn't last. I'm not much of a carpenter so before I get in there and tear something up, I was wondering if anyone else had any light to shine upon this issue? Any and all responses appreciated.

Thanks,

dreamer.
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Old 08-04-2006, 09:34 AM   #2
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Hello,

I am having a problem with keeping the sliding closet doors in the track. (upper) These are mirrored doors and fairly heavy. I've had it back to Wakarusa once for repair and it didn't last. I'm not much of a carpenter so before I get in there and tear something up, I was wondering if anyone else had any light to shine upon this issue? Any and all responses appreciated.

Thanks,

dreamer.
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Old 08-04-2006, 11:33 AM   #3
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Hi Dreamer -

Same here. My doors unlatch and open/close themselves sometimes. Have you checked the track itself at the top to see if it has enough clearance for the wheels, but not so much as to allow them to jump out of the track? Is it bent or twisted? Are the wheel assemblies in good shape? How about the stoppers/keepers on the bottom (maybe one is allowing too much front-to-back movement and allowing the door to swing and jump)?

My breaker panel is inside the closet on the road-side. Three times while driving, all AC power went off and so we panicked (it's HOT here in Texas!). Tracked it to a popped main breaker each time, and that only heightened our concern more (was our entire electrical system failing???)

The fourth time, I heard a BANG just as the power went out, and happened to see a momentary change in lighting in the rear of the coach when I turned my head.

Finaly dawned on me that the curb-side closet door was coming open, sliding all the way over to the breaker panel, hitting a breaker and tripping it, and then sliding back closed as we pulled off onto the (slanted) shoulder to see what had happened. The light change was what clued me in when the closet was moving and creating different shadows. It was almost as if the door was playing with our minds.

After wedging the door shut and continuing on our way for the time, I did a post-mortem that nite and determined that the latch assembly itself was broken. I now use a small ty-rap (and replace it each time we need to get in that side) going thru a screw-hole into the door and thru the bracket in the door-frame, and it'll have to work til I can get another latch assembly from Uncle-Monaco.

I think the root problem is because the coach walls shift ever-so-slightly from side to side as the coach goes down the road, and that causes the door to come unlatched. Not much movement, but just enough, because the latch assemblies aren't gripping with much either. Next step is a trip to Home Depot or Lowe's to see if I can find a more sturdy assembly.

I've thought about using an old-fashioned screen-door latch-hook, but will try to resist such a low-tech fix as long as I can.

Hope you get your fixed too!

Thanks!
Ron
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Old 08-04-2006, 01:22 PM   #4
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Ron, I wonder if the child safety latches that parents with young children use on their cabinet doors could be adapted to a situation like this to serve as a back up in-case the primary latch opened?
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Old 08-04-2006, 01:23 PM   #5
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dreamer welcome to irv2 and the Monaco Forum.
I have seen some heavy plastic latchs that hook into grove of glass door to keep in from moving on its own. They come in different sizes dependant on distance from wall to lip of door frame. Most good dealers will carry the sizes you might need. My doors use velcro on edges of the door to hold from opening going down the road.
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:58 PM   #6
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By the way, Dreamer......





Welcome aboard!
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Old 08-07-2006, 07:14 AM   #7
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Hello again,

Thanks for the replies.

Sorry that I didn't make myself clear. The doors stay latched, they don't slide back and forth. They become detatched from the upper track.

The tech at Wakarusa,IN reattached them and thought he had it fixed but by the time we got to Tunica, MS they were off again. Monaco refunded the money without question.

I suppose I should get a carpenter to look at them. Is the hardware the same as residential sliding doors?

These are on the closet slide out in the bedroom. Space inside is limited and frankly I don't fit in it very well to see what is going on.

Thanks again.

dreamer.
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Old 08-07-2006, 07:36 AM   #8
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Hi Dreamer -

Sorry, I may have gotten everyone off on a tangent there about sliding doors vs ones that slip off. I was thinking maybe they shift/move enough to jump the track too.

I was in Home Depot yesterday and thought about your situation when I went past the screen/sliding door hardware section. It looked like there was a lot of parts that might be applicable to your problem. New track runners, door-guides, rollers, etc. IIRC, it all looked pretty much like what we got in ours.

HTH,
Ron
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:54 PM   #9
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I had the same problem with a Journey we use to own. I fixed the problem by adding another set of track wheels both top and bottom to each door. That may sound strange to you, but there is plenty of room and it's easy to do. The extra wheels also put a little more friction on the sliding function, just enough to help maintain door position without the doors moving on their own.

I have one option you don't, I live 9 miles north of the RV Capitol)Elkhart,IN) and those sliding door wheel assemblies are readily avaiable. Maybe a hardware store, Lowes, Home Depot will have them. Remove one and thake it with you so you can match them up. Good Luck

When you find the match, slide a set of wheels into the track just inside the originals, then secure it in place with the screws provided. You may have to adjust the height a little so the friction isn't to great and the doors are level.



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Old 08-08-2006, 09:44 PM   #10
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Dreamer.....On my doors, there is a small metal tab, approximately 1 1/4" long that screws to the back of the closet door and is adjusted to just under the track at the top of the closet opening. If you can picture this, you can't lift the door up without removing these. They hit the top of the closet and keep the door from lifting any higher. Let meknow and I'll take a photo if necessary.
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Old 08-10-2006, 05:31 AM   #11
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I have been having the exact same problem in my 06 Endeavor. The previous post is a fair description of the issue and fix. If you look up under the valance that covers the upper track you will see two 1/4" hex head screws on each end of the door. One is in an angled slot and is for adjusting the roller wheel the other in a up and down slot is for the tab that should prevent the door from coming out of the track. You will need a 1/4" open end wrench to loosen the tab screw and then push the tab up and tighen the screw. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-22-2006, 09:07 AM   #12
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I solved the sliding door problems in our Beaver by cutting 2 lengths of 3/4" dowel just slightly longer than the distance from the bottom edge of each door to the wall. I wedge the dowels tightly in place when traveling and the doors don't go anywhere!! Dowels store out of the way in the closet or at base of bed when parked.
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