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Old 04-06-2015, 06:29 PM   #1
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Slobber Tube

What exactly would cause my ISC 330 to start throwing oil? I added a quart of oil about 2,000 miles ago, no oil change. Had the oil analyzed with no noticable problems. Now, for the last two 500 mile trips, I have been painting my mud flap and toad with a fine mist of oil. Everything from the slobber tube back is crummy with oil/dust. I am in the planning stages of adding a plastic bottle to the end of the slobber tube to capture any shmutz from the overflow. But, what makes it start slobbering in the first place? Thanks.
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Old 04-06-2015, 06:41 PM   #2
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Probably the most common reason I've read about is overfilling the oil. The engine will usually reach it's own level.

I installed a slobber tube bottle about 2 years ago mostly to see how much oil I was loosing, turns out I was loosing very little.
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Old 04-07-2015, 04:53 AM   #3
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The slobber tube is the ventilation outlet for the engine crankcase. If you plug it with a bottle then it can't breathe and will not have a flow of air to push the oil into thr bottle so it will not fill the bottle.

Jacwjames is most likely correct in that it is overfilled. I used leg mind run down a quart then it stabilized and all was good
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
The slobber tube is the ventilation outlet for the engine crankcase. If you plug it with a bottle then it can't breathe and will not have a flow of air to push the oil into thr bottle so it will not fill the bottle.



Jacwjames is most likely correct in that it is overfilled. I used leg mind run down a quart then it stabilized and all was good

In this thread, the bottle is ventilated. See pics.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/isc-...16-241123.html
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:39 AM   #5
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Tried the bottle plan and eventually found it to be an unnecessary mess. Suggest the slobber tube extension plan might be a simpler and cleaner option in the long run (out to somewhere in the vicinity of the rear bumper). Just make sure it's a downhill run the entire length to prevent clogs/freezing.
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:39 AM   #6
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NVMIKE Mine does the same thing, If I add oil to the full mark it will throw out a quart or two, then all is good, also have installed a slobber tube bottle with large holes in the top, It catches most of it, dump it once a year with my oil change. I think I'm going to put a mark on the stick were it is happy.
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:33 AM   #7
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My question still is why now? I haven't added ANY oil since last fall. It checks within range on the dipstick. Why?
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Old 04-07-2015, 11:15 AM   #8
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I don't know what weight oil you added about 2000 miles ago but I know my '99 Dodge pickup with the 5.9L Cummins will blow out oil from the slobber tube if I put 5w-40 oil in it. Around here it is almost impossible to find 15w-40 synthetic oil for diesels in the stores so I put the lighter weight oil in for an oil change. I went back to the 15w-40 synthetic oil (had to order online) on my next oil change and the oil from the slobber tube stopped in a very short period of time. My mechanic tells me that the older diesels cannot tolerate the lighter weight oil.

------- Jim
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Old 04-07-2015, 12:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Tried the bottle plan and eventually found it to be an unnecessary mess. Suggest the slobber tube extension plan might be a simpler and cleaner option in the long run (out to somewhere in the vicinity of the rear bumper). Just make sure it's a downhill run the entire length to prevent clogs/freezing.
The correct term is Crankcase Ventilation Tube or Crankcase Breather Tube. Sorry for the lengthy post but you should understand how this works before making changes.
You need to know this tube is sized to maintain a slightly Negative crankcase pressure by its length and inside diameter. (1/4" - 1/2" water)
If you change the size of the tube you will effect the crankcase pressure into a positive state. A rise in pressure will result in excess oil consumption, leaking seals etc.
The best way to control the mist coming off the tube is to install a "Catch Can" that is sufficiently vented so as not to change the breather characteristics of the tube.

In the OP's case, if this is something that has just started and he has not made any changes from the normal previous routine such as oil level, the carryover of oil out the breather is an indication of a problem. High crankcase pressure is the first cause. This is a result of an internal engine problem such as worn piston rings etc.
Next thing could be the Demister Pad inside the valve cover that is in place to knock out liquid before the crankcase mist enters the breather tube.
So, first thing would be to check the crankcase pressure during normal highway operation. This requires a manometer (digital with memory) connected to the crankcase, normally at the dipstick tube. Take the rig out and drive for a few miles to bring it up to Temperature and see what you find for pressure. Anything above 1/4" H2O Positive can be considered high and warrants further investigation.
If the pressure is Negative, the engine internals are normal and you should investigate the Demister device.
Side note, most common cause of oil carryover is high oil level. Be sure this is not your problem before going further.
I installed this clear plastic bottle on my breather tube a year or so ago and you can see in the photo how much oil has accumulated. (12K). I cut the top out to allow for ample breathing (Very Important) and just used Zip Ties to hold it in place.
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:05 PM   #10
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Dennis,
While my terminology may not meet your standards, you need to know that the slobber tube mod has been working fine on our coach for quite some time now. This same mod is actually pretty popular among other DP owners, especially those who have been forced into dealing with plugged up radiators. Once you've been through that mess one time, your coach WILL be quipped with some type of mod (bottle or extension, whatever). I could be mistaken, but was thinking they eventually started installing "crankcase vent tube" extensions from the factory?

Further, while it might be your opinion that the breather tube length and diameter must be exact, my experience would be to the contrary. I believe you'll be fine as long as there are no restrictions introduced (extension tubing sized as big or bigger than original). -Al
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Old 04-08-2015, 06:36 AM   #11
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A few cotton balls in the bottom of the catch jar works great.

I agree that it should not be needed but didn't hurt anything, mine catches very little but a couple of times with an oil soaked towd and its worth having.
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Old 04-08-2015, 07:02 AM   #12
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A few cotton balls in the bottom of the catch jar works great.

I agree that it should not be needed but didn't hurt anything, mine catches very little but a couple of times with an oil soaked towd and its worth having.
Cotton balls, never thought of that.
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Old 04-08-2015, 07:04 AM   #13
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Dennis,
While my terminology may not meet your standards, you need to know that the slobber tube mod has been working fine on our coach for quite some time now. This same mod is actually pretty popular among other DP owners, especially those who have been forced into dealing with plugged up radiators. Once you've been through that mess one time, your coach WILL be quipped with some type of mod (bottle or extension, whatever). I could be mistaken, but was thinking they eventually started installing "crankcase vent tube" extensions from the factory?

Further, while it might be your opinion that the breather tube length and diameter must be exact, my experience would be to the contrary. I believe you'll be fine as long as there are no restrictions introduced (extension tubing sized as big or bigger than original). -Al
Glad to hear its working for you.
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Old 04-10-2015, 07:19 AM   #14
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I don't use cotton balls but I do have some steel wool at the bottom of my bottle.
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