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Old 10-05-2014, 09:00 PM   #1
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Slow air dump

The air dump feature on my 2000 Dynasty is as slow as watching paint dry. I thought it was a restriction in the MAC valve, but disconnecting the air line feeding the valve reveals there is only a tiny amount of air flowing. Had the same situation on my 1993 Dynasty.

Is there a restriction leading to the three air dump valves? I know someone will chime in saying it's a safety thing, but this dump is excruciatingly slow--you can barely see the air pressure dropping. It is a little faster if you pump the brakes and bleed down the air pressure...but not much.

Last CG I was at, the guy beside me pulled a Fleetwood in and dumped his air in about 30 seconds or less. You could actually see his coach settling. Any ideas how to easily do that on my coach?
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Old 10-05-2014, 09:06 PM   #2
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I'm joining in here because I want to keep up with this topic.

I thought that the slow air dump was intentional, as a safety feature. If something went wrong with the air dump system, the leak down would be so slow that it wouldn't be a crisis when driving on the road.

When I'm in a hurry, I pump the brakes to let the air pressure down. The only thing I don't like about doing that is it creates a lot of noise that can draw attention in a crowded environment.

Jim
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:44 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanwill View Post
The air dump feature on my 2000 Dynasty is as slow as watching paint dry. I thought it was a restriction in the MAC valve, but disconnecting the air line feeding the valve reveals there is only a tiny amount of air flowing. Had the same situation on my 1993 Dynasty.

Is there a restriction leading to the three air dump valves? I know someone will chime in saying it's a safety thing, but this dump is excruciatingly slow--you can barely see the air pressure dropping. It is a little faster if you pump the brakes and bleed down the air pressure...but not much.

Last CG I was at, the guy beside me pulled a Fleetwood in and dumped his air in about 30 seconds or less. You could actually see his coach settling. Any ideas how to easily do that on my coach?
Van,

I had a Freightliner chassis before the Monaco and it would dump air very fast. When we got the Monaco I thought the air would never bleed down.

We use a trick that many on here use. That is to slightly push down on the parking brake release until you here the air rush out. By keep the parking brake in that partial position with your hand the air will quickly dissipate.

Bob
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Old 10-06-2014, 05:50 AM   #4
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I turn the key on to accessory and prop the switch on to dump with a golf tee while I do other stuff. This eliminates my stress of waiting for the gauge to drop and it seems to drop much faster if I don't watch it?
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Old 10-06-2014, 05:55 AM   #5
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Van,

We use a trick that many on here use. That is to slightly push down on the parking brake release until you here the air rush out. By keep the parking brake in that partial position with your hand the air will quickly dissipate.

Bob
Once I heard of this procedure, It has become the norm for me. If I remember correctly, I bleed down the air to either 50 or 60 PSI then I dump the air out of the bags. Definitely faster then before.
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:15 AM   #6
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I believe I've read somewhere here to be careful of pumping the brakes to bleed air as it can cause them to become locked. I seemed that had happened to us (they finally released) after using that technique once so I stopped doing it after that. Just have to remind myself to have patience - which is hard when the dogs are going crazy to get outside upon arrival at the campsite!
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Old 10-06-2014, 10:23 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Tizbad View Post
I turn the key on to accessory and prop the switch on to dump with a golf tee while I do other stuff. This eliminates my stress of waiting for the gauge to drop and it seems to drop much faster if I don't watch it?
Do ya ever feel like a dunce when someone points out a solution that is obvious (to everyone but you)? Thanks. Great idea. I had thought of replacing the switch with one that was not momentary. Thanks for waking me up! Yes, I bet it does bleed more quickly if one is not watching.

And thanks to Bob and others about the parking brake trick. I guess I'll just live with it. Got too many projects ahead of this one.
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Old 10-06-2014, 10:28 AM   #8
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I believe I've read somewhere here to be careful of pumping the brakes to bleed air as it can cause them to become locked. I seemed that had happened to us (they finally released) after using that technique once so I stopped doing it after that. Just have to remind myself to have patience - which is hard when the dogs are going crazy to get outside upon arrival at the campsite!
Thanks for the reply. I'm not saying you are not correct, however, what you are experiencing is very common if you are parked for any period of time during rainy weather, and especially if you are near the coast. In that case, it is the brake shoes getting lightly rusted to the drums in the rear. That happened to me for about the tenth time a couple of weeks ago after three rainy days on the NC coast. Scary the first time, until you know what it is. After that, you just use that big ol' diesel to bust the brake shoes loose.
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Old 10-06-2014, 10:43 AM   #9
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Thanks for the reply. I'm not saying you are not correct, however, what you are experiencing is very common if you are parked for any period of time during rainy weather, and especially if you are near the coast. In that case, it is the brake shoes getting lightly rusted to the drums in the rear. That happened to me for about the tenth time a couple of weeks ago after three rainy days on the NC coast. Scary the first time, until you know what it is. After that, you just use that big ol' diesel to bust the brake shoes loose.
I have a truck driver friend that I ride with sometimes. It's not uncommon for him to hook up to a trailer with locked brakes. He just rocks back and forth a few times and the brakes break loose. Those big ol' diesels work wonders!
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Old 10-06-2014, 02:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa_Jim View Post
I'm joining in here because I want to keep up with this topic.

I thought that the slow air dump was intentional, as a safety feature. If something went wrong with the air dump system, the leak down would be so slow that it wouldn't be a crisis when driving on the road.

When I'm in a hurry, I pump the brakes to let the air pressure down. The only thing I don't like about doing that is it creates a lot of noise that can draw attention in a crowded environment.

Jim
Jim I have also heard that about safety being the reason and could be but I think it was a cost cutting decision, our coaches with HWH air leveling will drop the air out fast and I can't see where it's unsafe.
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Old 10-06-2014, 03:40 PM   #11
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Kept mentioning this to my brother the long time trucker. His response after looking was " its only a 1\4" line. Ain't gonna be fast. Besides your retired how much of a hurry are you really in?"" So we have a 1\2" slice of small PVC with a slice thru one side.( looks like a little donut with a slice in it) It has 2 purposes. Slip it up under the dump switch to bleed air while I do other things and then it clips around the parking brake so it can't accidently be pushed off.
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Old 10-06-2014, 03:52 PM   #12
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I also jam something under the switch if I don't want to wait. I like the PVC donut solution.

Pumping the brakes will not dump the air bags. I have verified this on my coach. It will, however, purge the air tanks meaning the air dump switch has less air to dump and so will lower more quickly.

Mine takes 60-90 seconds to dump to an acceptable level.
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanwill View Post
The air dump feature on my 2000 Dynasty is as slow as watching paint dry.
This is normal for coaches built by Monaco. The is because there are no valves between the air tanks and the air bags. When you press the switch to dump the air, it is releasing the air from the air bags. This causes the coach to start to settle a little, which immediately causes the ride height valves to open, letting in air from the air tanks, while they try to maintain the coach height. The bags won't make much headway in lowering the coach until the air tanks are down to about 60 PSI - at this point, an air protection valve closes preventing the air bags from using up all of the air, leaving some precious air still available for the air brakes. With the air protection valve closed, the air bags can finally make some headway in lowering the coach.

The easy solution is to fan the brake pedal or push the parking brake button half way to release air and quickly get below 60 PSI. While this dumps the air in the tanks, you will still have to hold the air dump button to dump the air in the bags, but that part will go quicker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanwill View Post
Last CG I was at, the guy beside me pulled a Fleetwood in and dumped his air in about 30 seconds or less. You could actually see his coach settling. Any ideas how to easily do that on my coach?
I'll bet his coach has an extra valve between the air tanks and the air bags, and that this valve closes when the air bags are dumped. This way, the dump valves only have to release the air from the air bags, and they don't have to drain the entire air system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MSGulfCoast View Post
I believe I've read somewhere here to be careful of pumping the brakes to bleed air as it can cause them to become locked.
I think what you are referring to is a warning about "compounding" the brakes. That's when you press the service brakes at the same time that you have the parking brake on. This causes double the normal force on the rear brake pads, which can cause damage unless your air brake system is specifically designed to cope with it. The brakes on many newer coaches are designed with anti-compounding features and it's safe to apply the service brakes while the parking brake is engaged. The brakes on many older coaches don't have this protection, so you should not apply the service brakes while the parking brake is set.

I don't think there is any rule of thumb that says which models or years will or will not have anti-compounding features. You will have to check the manuals or other documentation for your specific coach. If you don't know for sure whether you have protection against compounding the brakes, you're best bet is to assume you don't and never apply both brake systems at once.
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