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Old 02-06-2019, 08:12 AM   #43
srh
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I have the USB Multilink - but the point I was making is that you need to know what kind of "connection" the CCM has for your laptop to connect to.

The MultiLink comes with different ribbon cables (on my Pentair motherboard there is a plug for the Multilink to connect to. I don't know if the CCM even has a ribbon cable (diagnostic/programming) plug.

It won't do you any good to buy the software if you can't connect the laptop to the CCM. Whoever has the Cadet software and works on these CCM units, your should call and ask them how the laptop/software connects to the CCM.
Thanks, again, Mike.
It doesn't seem that I would be able to put my hands on the software as per Jason in Coburg, OR. I wish I could! If any one has a source I sure would love to know. Your point is well taken on being able to connect my laptop to the CCM IF I get the software. I will cross that bridge when I come to it.

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Old 02-17-2019, 07:51 PM   #44
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Check your grounds. If spradic electric items start going haywire, a bad ground is your culprit. Get a wiring diagram for your CCM unit, find the ground on the wire connector to the plug on it and jumper a ground to it. If it works, then you need to track down where it grounds. Or leave it on. Cheap and dirty but it works.
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Old 02-18-2019, 08:50 PM   #45
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I'll jump in although I know little about smart wheels on MH's. this may have nothing whatsoever to do you your problem but here goes.

Last fall I was having had a total alignment done on my MH, while I was waiting, the shop owner and I were walking through his shop, we walked up to a new-lookiing MH with the RF fender area removed and I asked what problem were they repairing. Dave said the smart wheel was "going crazy" as the owner put it.

They had just located the problem, there was a multi-pin connector that had a plug on both ends where the wiring passed through the firewall. He pointed out the fuzzy green corrosion on the pin connectors on the part permanently installed in the firewall (this is located just a bit inside the front tire).
I didn't follow-up on the final outcome, but I haven't forgotten the sight of the corroded pins.
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:04 AM   #46
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I was having a problem with my smart wheel - the cruise control didn't work all the time.

When I started the troubleshooting, the first step was to unplug one of the connecters at the VIP module and test voltages. As I started to pull the connector out one of the wires came out of the connector (leaving the brass terminal inside the connector). The wire was never properly crimped to the terminal. It was making a connection sometimes but loose enough to cause intermittent problems.
Always give each wire a little tug to be sure it is secure in its connector.
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:57 PM   #47
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All these (posts 44, 45, and 46) are potential sources of problems that I will look at. I do have quite a bit of the wiring diagrams, thanks to Frank (a genius), and very patient as well, walking me through this!

The good thing is that it is no longer parked outside the shop. I drove it home and it is parked inside, but brutally cold to work on it as I do not have a heated garage.

I'll keep you posted.
Thanks for all your support.
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Old 02-21-2019, 05:43 PM   #48
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VIP Systems Have Made The Smartsteering for Monaco Multiplex Chassis

Just found some encouraging news that VIP (Vehicle Improvement Products) made the Smartsteering for the Monaco Multiplex chassis. Even though the control module was by Monaco Chassis Control Module (CCM).

Here is a link for the schematics using the VIP Control Module, but I believe the schematics may apply to Controls other than VIP.

https://www.vipwheels.com/sites/defa...460-I1V-_A.pdf

One can also buy the Smartsteering keypads for that era (2008 +) smart steering from VIP.
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Old 02-21-2019, 06:56 PM   #49
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Thank you srh. I have filed it with my other owner stuff. If I remember you were having an issue with your power pedals as well, no? Any news on that front?

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Old 02-24-2019, 10:44 AM   #50
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Thank you srh. I have filed it with my other owner stuff. If I remember you were having an issue with your power pedals as well, no? Any news on that front?

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Not really.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:28 AM   #51
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M&M are the Motorhome Electronics guru's https://www.mmrvelectronics.com/
Their home location is Ohio City, OH, but their winter location is near DeLand, FL. Suggest you give them a call to discuss. If Mark and Chris can't fix it, it can't be fixed.


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This looks like a link worth saving for the future. Hoping I never need it but I'll have it if I do. Thanks for the reference
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:07 PM   #52
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This looks like a link worth saving for the future. Hoping I never need it but I'll have it if I do. Thanks for the reference
I am talking o them.
Did they do any fixes along those lines for you?
Thanks
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Old 04-03-2019, 07:44 AM   #53
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WOW

Did not think I would get all these reply's!! Lot of great info here. The board is now at M & M electronics in Ohio. Just missed them before they went back to Ohio. Won't know until coming Monday if they can fix. They have pics and problem and told Alliance to send it. Will post results.
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Old 04-07-2019, 10:15 AM   #54
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Did not think I would get all these reply's!! Lot of great info here. The board is now at M & M electronics in Ohio. Just missed them before they went back to Ohio. Won't know until coming Monday if they can fix. They have pics and problem and told Alliance to send it. Will post results.
Please do post. It will be good to know what they do or say.
Thanks for your post.
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Old 04-10-2019, 04:54 AM   #55
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Tuesday, Board arrived at Alliance. No answer as to why it failed. Labor charge seemed excessive ($1700), but on the road again! Woopee.
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Old 04-10-2019, 07:40 AM   #56
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Tuesday, Board arrived at Alliance. No answer as to why it failed. Labor charge seemed excessive ($1700), but on the road again! Woopee.
Ouch. But nothing on these coaches is cheap.
I hope they gave you a warranty.

FYI - On the older style VIP controllers some were failing because the headlight circuit was factory wired to pass the full amperage of the headlights through the smartwheel control module. The fix is to add two relays (hi and Low beam) so only low amperage (the relay control side) goes through the controller and the higher amperage power to headlights goes through the relays.

If your headlights are wired the same, consider doing the headlight relay mod.
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