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I do not have a Monaco. I do have the same damage in the same place -- probably for the same reason -- bottom seal on the driver side power window failed, water ran down the inside of the "door" area, and the drip tray at the bottom of the window channel failed to channel water out of the area. Silly reason for major damage, as I temporarily solved the intrusion with a strip of duc tape at the window seal . . . So I'll tell the story in hopes that it will inspire you in your effort:
My bus floor has a 2-1/2" void between the subfloor and the tin. The void has standard spun fiberglass insulation. The jousts are 1.5"x2.5" wood to the rear, and 1" square steel stock from the driver seat forward. The 1" void in that area is filled with 1/2" of nasty white styrafoam. The subfloor is a particle board with no specific grain. Over that is a carpet (forward) and wood laminate flooring (galley rearward through the bath area).My visible damage was from beside the driver seat back about 8 inches to just under the slide, and inboard about 10 inches. My intent was to remove the carpet and 65,000,000.01 staples, fix the damage, and redo the entire bus with vinyl plank flooring.
I probed with a drill and came up with black wood under the subfloor in all directions from the visible damage. The water had saturated the insulation and rotted the floor joists and subfloor from the bottom up. The insulation was disgusting. But it was impossible to assess the extent of the rot without tearing into it.
I bought an oscillating tool (Bosch, from the pumpkin-colored store) and nipped out a bit of subfloor. The top on some joists were still normal looking, but they were black and pithy at the bottom. The outside edge joist and the two inboard from there were perished, as was the first cross-joist. I probed and cut looking for good wood. I used a camera to look in the voids. My 8x10" damage became 7'x3'. The fiberglass was saturated several feet deeper.
I removed the insulation and gave it a few days to dry out. I used the oscillating cutter and the Sawzall to remove the damaged sections of joist and the screws and staples intruding into the area. I bought a 2x6 stud and dimensioned it as joist stock. I daughtered in new joists, making them stronger under the slide roller. I used that blue sheet insulation to refill the voids -- I could push a 1" layer and a 1.5" layer up the length of the voids and they filled the space nicely.
I should note here that the damage extended well under the slide. A roller had sunk through the floor and the slide was down by the bow. The damage extended from the outside edge to a foot inboard of the extended slide. I needed instructions from the good folks on IRV2 to safely tilt the slide so I could work under it without damaging the bus or myself. But I digress.
I dimensioned new ACX and fitted. It's slightly taller than the original subfloor, so back to the pumpkin store for a belt sander (Ryobi corded). That's where I am today -- ripping out old wood flooring and smoothing that surface and the margins of the repair to prep for the new vinyl plank stuff. After about 50 hours of actual thinking and tinkering, I should be walking on new floor from the rear bedroom to the entry door this weekend.
The job is clean enough that I can live in the bus while the repairs are in progress.
The takeaway is that most of your damage will be hidden, and that most of your effort will be problemsolving -- figuring out what you need to do and how to get it done. The work itself (aside from tipping the slide, if needed) needs only basic skills and the ability to make square plunge cuts, freehand. I would not invest in cheap tools for this job, and I wouldn't rush it.
Good luck!
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Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
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TARDIS Project 2001 Mountain Aire DP40' 330CAT
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