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Old 04-22-2019, 08:30 AM   #15
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line voltage wire splices must be done in an enclosure whether it be in the panel or on an approved junction box with a cover, 3M Scotchlock type wire nuts is what I would prefer using if available.
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Old 04-22-2019, 02:53 PM   #16
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When I re-wired my old boat, I was told that soldered joints weren't a good idea as the vibration around the actual solid solder joint itself was more subject to eventual fracture. Seemed a bit contradictory to me, tho. It was suggested to use butt-connectors instead. Just passing this on, hopefully the more-knowledgable here can clarify .

All connections I've run across in my coaches have been wire-nuts and elec tape (wound around the wire-nut so as to be in the 'tighten' direction) in j-boxes.
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Old 04-22-2019, 02:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
I think moving the wire from the non-inverted breaker to the inverted breaker should do it. That means. The hot lead only. The other wire stays where it is.
Actually, I think you'll need to move all 3 wires to the other panel (Hot/Neutral and Ground) or it won't work properly.
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Old 04-22-2019, 03:04 PM   #18
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Something I learned is to tightly twist the wires together with linemans pliers then add the wire nut. And for safety in the RV Add the Scotch 33 or Super 33 tape.
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Old 04-23-2019, 05:02 PM   #19
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As you travel you may find that you need to run the generator to operate the air conditioners or other devices.

So, perhaps you should put off this modification for a few trips to see how it goes. We installed a residential refer last year and traveled from Fl to CA and back. It would have been easy to move the refer plug to the inverted outlet but I wanted to test it running it this way. It cooled very quickly and we so often ran the generator it was just not necessary.
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Old 04-23-2019, 05:29 PM   #20
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When I installed a residential fridge in our Windsor, the fridge rear 110v outlet was not wired to the inverter sub panel.

Both circuit breaker panels were next to each other, so I just added 2' of Romex using wire nuts with black tape over them and ran the fridge outlet wire to a new breaker in the inverter breaker box.

This lasted for many years and is still working well.
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Old 04-23-2019, 05:50 PM   #21
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Butt connectors are probably the least desirable if you don't have the proper crimping tools. A really poor connection if not properly crimped. A wire nut on the other hand is an excellent method of termination provided you have clean conductors, twisted properly and the wire nut is properly sized. The wire nut will encapsulate the conductors and keep tension on the copper bundle providing a secure connection and low temperature rise. Properly done you can join solid and stranded conductors.

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Old 04-23-2019, 05:51 PM   #22
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Where you run out of Romex, add a junction box ( like a rounded handy box available at big box store for $1.50) and connect and run more Romex back to the panel. Make sure you put a cover on the junction box. Buchanan crimps are ideal for vibration prone environments. Unfortunately the tool to crimp these isn’t cheap but it lasts a lifetime. You can get the crimps at Lowes HD etc. buts here is a pic.

https://www.cesco.com/Ideal-2011S-Bu...0-Box/p2132880

They sell plastic covers to go over the crimp and the crimps are available in 2 sizes depending on how many and what gauge wires you are splicing.
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Old 04-23-2019, 06:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyTools View Post
When I re-wired my old boat, I was told that soldered joints weren't a good idea as the vibration around the actual solid solder joint itself was more subject to eventual fracture. Seemed a bit contradictory to me, tho. It was suggested to use butt-connectors instead. Just passing this on, hopefully the more-knowledgable here can clarify .

All connections I've run across in my coaches have been wire-nuts and elec tape (wound around the wire-nut so as to be in the 'tighten' direction) in j-boxes.
Boats have their own rules about electrical wiring.

My survey recommended I replace any solid core romex with stranded core " Marine " romex.

Knowing it was due to vibrations and harmonics thru the hull, I expected to see the same worring in RVs. Nope, solid core is fine.
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:04 PM   #24
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Dennis, The best connectors I have used are ones I buy from McMaster-carr. they have built in heat shrink and Solder. You should have the proper crimp tool this is important but when you use your heat gun to shrink the outer cover you will see the solder melt also. You can also buy just heat shrink cover with no solder also.
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:25 PM   #25
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Use a junction. Ox, twist wires with your linesman pliers add a little tape and you will never have another issue again
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:26 PM   #26
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Use a junction. Ox, twist wires with your linesman pliers add a little tape and you will never have another issue again
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:45 AM   #27
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I have a real first world problem. I removed the Splende washer/dryer and we've been using the space for storage. Now we want to put a wine cooler in there and the washer plug isn't on the inverter. I need it to run the cooler while were traveling!

I have blank spot in the inverter circuit breaker panel and I want to put a breaker in there, disconnect the washer wiring from the non-inverter circuit breaker and jump it to the new breaker. I'm thinking of using wire nuts, but wonder if there is a better way to connect the two wires.
Dennis,

I would not recommend using butt connectors on solid conductor wire. They are OK on stranded wire if you have the proper crimping tool that places a dimple in the butt connector. I would use wire nuts done the way post 18 explains. My father-in-law was an electrician always twisted the wires together with lineman pliers as shown in post 18 and then added the wire nut making sure all the bare wire was covered. He then would wrap the connection with 3M tape.

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