Starting problems with stored '92 Dynasty

Alan S · 09-11-2011, 03:26 PM

Hello everyone,

I have a 1992 Dynasty coach that was left to me by my father in 2007. We moved the coach from Virginia to San Antonio that summer and were able to move it for about 18 months afterwards. The only storage we could get was without an electrical hookup so we were going once a month to light it off to try to keep all systems working. To make a long story shorter the batteries died and we did not have the cash to replace them or do any additional work on the coach.

This week we bought a new set of batteries and installed them. All electrical seems to be working properly. The generator cranks with a strong sound but does not fully start. I read in the manuals today that I could crank for up to 30 seconds and I was only trying 4 or 5 seconds. I'll drive back to the storage facility to try again but I'm hoping I can get some additional info from the members here.

The oil pressure and air pressure gauges are not registering anything when the key is turned to the on position. I'm thinking this is very bad news but hoping for options I might be able to check myself. Dad was a 30yr career Navy man with great mechanical troubleshooting skills. I tried to take in all of his tutorials on the care and operation of the coach but the complexity of it all has me really stumped.

I know the fuel can go bad. San Antonio has had so little rain that I can't imagine moisture is an issue. Do diesel engines need to be primed in some way after periods of no use? Could some switches have released automatically due to the loss of electrical? I know the RV community is very helpful to one another and I thank you in advance for your time and for any assistance you can provide to this newbie.

itdave · 09-11-2011, 04:36 PM

If this coach has been sitting for a couple of years without running the diesel fuel could be bad or the filters could have lost their prime. When you mention the air and oil pressure gauges if they are for the engine they will not register anything until the engine is running. Air could take a couple of minutes to built up. I am no engine expert but I would recommend draining and replacing the filters. Hopefully someone with older coach will know the process for replacing fuel filters and how to prime them.

Midniteoyl · 09-11-2011, 04:45 PM

Diesel goes bad rather quickly unless 'conditioner and algaecide' is used... I would also recommend pulling the filters, draining the tank and replace with fresh..

walt2137 · 09-11-2011, 05:46 PM

Diesel is not like gas, I keep diesel for my tractors for 2 yrs or longer in a tank before refilling the only thing that could be a problem is algaecide. If your fuel is at 1/4 or less I would suspect that the gen suction is not in the fuel it is short on purpose to keep you from using all the fuel for the coach engine, you might need to get a couple 5 gal cans. Do not change the filters until you get the engine running and when you do only change one at a time then run the coach engine for a few min before changing the other (dont put them on dry). It is not clear on where you tried to start the coach engine or not or what engine you have, pls give a little more info. As has been said you will have no air pressure or oil pressure until the engine starts and when you do get it going be sure to run both the engine and Gen at least once a month.

Alan S · 09-11-2011, 10:07 PM

Thanks for advice so far. The coach had a few minor problems when it was passed to me. One was the fuel gauge does not register correctly. A visual on the actual tank shows it to be about 2/3 full.

The manuals are not clear on the exact engine in this coach. The service and maintenance sections list Cummins 6 B5.9 and Cummins 6 C8.3 diesel engines. I'm not completely sure which is installed in our model but I believe it's the C8.3 model. There are some hand written notes in that column.

Dad always told me that before starting the engine that the air pressure needed to build to 70 (I believe that's the number without the gauge in front of me) or I would not have brakes. I know that this model year was built on a custom frame and Monaco moved away from that to a more truck/bus frame in later models. Every time I've driven the vehicle I've turned the key to the on position want waited for the air pressure to raise prior to starting the engine. Am I wrong to worry about that or is that an issue with these older models?

When you ask where I tried to start the engine... I have not tried from the mechanics controls in the engine compartment. I tried to start the generator from the front panel and from the control panel above the exit door. I did not try to find the switch on the generator itself as the manuals were at my home when we went to install the batteries. I hope I'm understanding the question properly.

Midniteoyl · 09-11-2011, 10:32 PM

If you have air brakes, then the air releases the brakes. While you might have an electric compressor and it might fill with the key in the ON position, it is not necessary to start the engine.

I'm still calling a fuel/fuel delivery problem...

walt2137 · 09-12-2011, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan S

Thanks for advice so far. The coach had a few minor problems when it was passed to me. One was the fuel gauge does not register correctly. A visual on the actual tank shows it to be about 2/3 full.

The manuals are not clear on the exact engine in this coach. The service and maintenance sections list Cummins 6 B5.9 and Cummins 6 C8.3 diesel engines. I'm not completely sure which is installed in our model but I believe it's the C8.3 model. There are some hand written notes in that column.

Dad always told me that before starting the engine that the air pressure needed to build to 70 (I believe that's the number without the gauge in front of me) or I would not have brakes. I know that this model year was built on a custom frame and Monaco moved away from that to a more truck/bus frame in later models. Every time I've driven the vehicle I've turned the key to the on position want waited for the air pressure to raise prior to starting the engine. Am I wrong to worry about that or is that an issue with these older models?

When you ask where I tried to start the engine... I have not tried from the mechanics controls in the engine compartment. I tried to start the generator from the front panel and from the control panel above the exit door. I did not try to find the switch on the generator itself as the manuals were at my home when we went to install the batteries. I hope I'm understanding the question properly.

What your Father meant is before you can move the coach the air pressure will need to be in the 90# range, the compressor is attached and run by the engine, I am not going to confuse you with a lot of info at this time but it is a lot more that you need to know & check before you take a trip, for right now just work on starting the engine and generator and when you get that done you might want to get more info.
The Chassis of your coach is a Roadmaster Semi-Monocoque Tubular Steel Frame Construction and Monaco made some of the Coaches in the lower price range on the Roadmaster Raise Rail Chassis starting in 1998 but the Semi-monocoque chassis is still made.
I am going to paste A Air brake test file to help you understand more about the Air Brake system and we dont need to do this every day as suggested but at least a couple times a year and before you drive the coach after you get it running.

TESTING YOUR AIR BRAKES AND SLACK ADJUSTERS
Auto slack adjusters are used to maintain proper brake chamber stroke and lining to drum clearance during normal operation.   The entire slack adjuster operates as a unit rotating with the brake camshaft as brakes are applied or released.  THE MOST EFFICIENT BRAKING OCCURS WHEN PUSH ROD TRAVEL IS HELD TO A MINIMUM.   Auto Slack Adjusters adjust themselves automatically during full brake applications to accommodate brake lining and drum wear. The key words here are FULL BRAKE APPLICATIONS.   Have you ever engaged your brakes full.... pedal to the floor... probably not many have. But there is way to do this properly to ensure you get your auto adjusters to work for you. If you have never fully depressed this pedal it is likely that your auto adjust system has not been fully activating its full adjustment potential.   DO NOT RUN OUT AND DO IT NOW....DO THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE TO ENSURE THE SAFETY OF YOUR BRAKING SYSTEM AND THAT YOU DO NOT DAMAGE IT.   Following is a procedure that should be done every day before you start your drive. Certainly, it should be done if your unit has been sitting for a time without use. This will tell you if your air brake system is functioning satisfactorily and will also adjust your slack adjusters.   1.Start engine and let air pressure build up.   2.Block wheels (use chocks that can be purchased from an RV supply store and chock the outside dual on each side. Be sure to insert a chock in front and behind the tire to ensure no vehicle movement. Parking on level ground when you do this is a big help. After this is done and you are sure your Discovery can not move RELEASE YOUR PARK BRAKE.  3.Your brake pressure should be at max. Now fan your brakes to  85psi. NOW ENGAGE YOUR PARK BRAKE AGAIN. Compressor should cut in and watch to ensure a return to full pressure.  4.When you have reached max pressure and the compressor has cut out RELEASE YOUR PARK BRAKE AGAIN AND SHUT OFF THE ENGINE.  5.MAKE FULL BRAKE APPLICATION (BE SURE you have released your park brake before you do this or you will damage the system.) Hold the pedal all the way to the bottom for one minute. Watch your air gauges as they should not move (allowable loss in this mode for 60 seconds is  3 psi). Listen for audible leaks as you wait for the 60 seconds to expire. After 60 seconds release the pedal. (YOUR AUTO SLACK ADJUSTERS WILL SET UP AUTOMATICALLY DURING THIS PROCEDURE.)   6.Turn on key... fan brakes to 20 psi. LOW AIR WARNING SHOULD START, continue to fan down to 20psi.. by now your park brake will have engaged automatically although you will not have any indication of this. Start engine and run at 1000 rpm using your cruise setting. Time  3 minuets. In this time your air pressure should be up to between 50 and 90psi. This will tell you your Compressor is functioning properly.   8. Apply park brake.   End of Test 

itdave · 09-12-2011, 12:31 PM

Walt,
Great write up on air brakes, this is info we all should have. Maybe we can get the moderators to put this and other safety notes in a sticky.

walt2137 · 09-12-2011, 01:15 PM

Thank you Dave but I must admit that I didnt do the write up on this I copied it to my Documents from a post yrs ago and have a print out in the coach and do the test at least once or twice a year.