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Old 11-16-2019, 05:59 PM   #1
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Trans fluid leak

I have a 2008 Monaco Dynasty with Detroit 500hp. Week ago on trip observed large amount of red transmission fluid dripping from below side mounted radiator. Inside engine bay a lot of fluid sprayed over the left portion of Bay Area. Appeared to be coming from hoses/fittings entering the back lower portion of the radiator housing. Paid to have on site repair on the hose the technician said was the cause. Replaced all the fluid in the engine bay reservoir and slide out manifold. Travelled another two hundred miles only to see the problem still persists. Looking for help.
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Old 11-16-2019, 08:55 PM   #2
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Need to fix asap if hose is spraying engine compartment, a friends coach caught fire and burn't to the ground, he said fluid I think from condenser fan sprayed on hot exhaust.
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Old 11-17-2019, 06:27 AM   #3
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We had exactly the same issue on our 2007 Navigator with the DD diesel, but it was the hydraulic cooler had failed. Are you sure it is the lines or could it be the cooler itself? Our cooler is on the outside of the stack on the bottom, very easy to replace.
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Old 11-19-2019, 07:26 AM   #4
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Need to fix asap if hose is spraying engine compartment, a friends coach caught fire and burn't to the ground, he said fluid I think from condenser fan sprayed on hot exhaust.


I thought about that right away. Felt a little better after talking to the tech and reading the quart bottles of trans fluid. Tech said and the bottle doesnít mention it being flammable. Know matter this is priority one. Not quite sure what I can use to spray and safely clean off trans fluid already there. On site service tech used starting fluid so thatís what I plan on using. Any thoughts? Going to replace second hose. Already reaching out to trusted service shop for some guidance as well. Thank you for your reply.
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Old 11-19-2019, 07:29 AM   #5
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We had exactly the same issue on our 2007 Navigator with the DD diesel, but it was the hydraulic cooler had failed. Are you sure it is the lines or could it be the cooler itself? Our cooler is on the outside of the stack on the bottom, very easy to replace.


Not really sure. Figure the second hose is easy fix if for no other reason to rule it out. I will certainly ask the service shop or on site service I probably have to turn to. Thanks for your suggestion. Didnít know that.
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Old 11-19-2019, 07:48 AM   #6
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Find a heavy truck repair shop.
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Old 11-19-2019, 09:02 AM   #7
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Not quite sure what I can use to spray and safely clean off trans fluid already there. On site service tech used starting fluid so thatís what I plan on using. Any thoughts? Going to replace second hose. Already reaching out to trusted service shop for some guidance as well. Thank you for your reply.
Get some spray "Engine Degreaser". All the auto parts stores carry it. It's much safer than starting fluid and cheaper too. You spray it on, wait a little bit, (brush if necessary) and wash it off with a garden hose.
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Old 11-19-2019, 09:19 AM   #8
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I thought about that right away. Felt a little better after talking to the tech and reading the quart bottles of trans fluid. Tech said and the bottle doesnít mention it being flammable. Know matter this is priority one. Not quite sure what I can use to spray and safely clean off trans fluid already there. On site service tech used starting fluid so thatís what I plan on using. Any thoughts? Going to replace second hose. Already reaching out to trusted service shop for some guidance as well. Thank you for your reply.
Most lubricating are considered combustible . Combustible substances will burn over 100f called flashpoint that's detimened by the exact fashpiloint of that substance.if then exposed to spark or flame at atmospheric pressure. The higher over flashpoint the less of flame\spark it will take. Most lube oil is around. 350 to 450F next they come into auto ignition point will it will just burst into flames no spark around 700 to 900F It doesn't mean a drop of oil will burst into flames every time it hits a surface above auto ignition point .Even high concentrations of antifreeze/glycol have a flashpoint.
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Old 11-20-2019, 09:30 PM   #9
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Get some spray "Engine Degreaser". All the auto parts stores carry it. It's much safer than starting fluid and cheaper too. You spray it on, wait a little bit, (brush if necessary) and wash it off with a garden hose.


Thanks for your reply. I will buy a can and try it. Any problem with it getting on the exterior of the coach?
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Old 11-20-2019, 09:41 PM   #10
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Thanks for your reply. I will buy a can and try it. Any problem with it getting on the exterior of the coach?
yea. Don't do that. It can ruin the paint.

I use the engine degreaser too. Works great. Another one is simple green and it's much safer around the painted surfaces. I don't use the regular SG on aluminum. They have an aircraft simple green that is safe for aluminum too.
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Old 11-25-2019, 07:33 AM   #11
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The concern with simple green is it falls too far on the caustic side of PH scale for aluminum radiators and AC coils. A lot of other degreaser are a lot more caustic, most of purple power \ zep purple type are much higher the mist will take your breath away . Just take care not to hose down your radiator with wrong type pure degreaser. I use the purple on jet ski engine bay no issues . When I was under 20 and broke I used Aldi brand Pinesol and hot water to decrease car engines.. Its slightly to acid side of scale. Cans of spray degreaser were about the same price as they are today.
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Old 11-25-2019, 06:06 PM   #12
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Take a look at Simple Green Purple for use on aluminum.

As for your leak, do what my buddy did and have a hydraulic hose shop make a cooler bypass hose. That way you can make it back to home base and get a new cooler. My buddy made it across the country with the bypass hose in place and watched the trans temperature to keep it in check. Try to keep it below 225į.

The coolers most of the time need to be made. My buddy, as well as other folks here have used Source Engineering to get their gold plated cooler. Gold plated, as in expensive.

Bill Willard and I now carry a cooler bypass hose in our onboard parts bin.
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Old 11-26-2019, 05:09 PM   #13
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Take a look at Simple Green Purple for use on aluminum.

As for your leak, do what my buddy did and have a hydraulic hose shop make a cooler bypass hose. That way you can make it back to home base and get a new cooler. My buddy made it across the country with the bypass hose in place and watched the trans temperature to keep it in check. Try to keep it below 225į.

The coolers most of the time need to be made. My buddy, as well as other folks here have used Source Engineering to get their gold plated cooler. Gold plated, as in expensive.

Bill Willard and I now carry a cooler bypass hose in our onboard parts bin.


Thanks for the reply. Based upon my description you think itís the cooler? I was planning on pulling the second hose from the pump to the back of the radiator. Take it to a shop and have a new one made. Iíll then clean everything back there as best as I can. Then in a couple of months Iíll be making a ten mile trip to another location. If it still leaks itís definitely not the hoses. If it was the cooler wouldnít it leak even at idle? How can I tell if itís the cooler? Other then the hoses or cooler is there anything else I should be looking at.
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Old 11-26-2019, 05:15 PM   #14
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We had exactly the same issue on our 2007 Navigator with the DD diesel, but it was the hydraulic cooler had failed. Are you sure it is the lines or could it be the cooler itself? Our cooler is on the outside of the stack on the bottom, very easy to replace.


Not sure. Going to replace the second hose and clean everything as best as I can. It doesnít leak at idle. I will be traveling ten miles in two months. If it still leaks I will look at the cooler or something else. Did your cooler leak at idle? How could you tell it was the cooler. Where did you turn to get a replacement? Btw, thanks for the reply.
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