U Joint Replacement

[alpinecpi]

Does any body know the Brand name and model number of the U Joints on a 2005 Monaco Diplomat ? I thought I was paying for lube oil and filter all this time, turns out the dealer never touched the grease zirk fittings on the driveshaft, amongst others. Shame on me for not checking thier work. Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

[KIX]

Quote:

Originally Posted by alpinecpi Does any body know the Brand name and model number of the U Joints on a 2005 Monaco Diplomat ? I thought I was paying for lube oil and filter all this time, turns out the dealer never touched the grease zirk fittings on the driveshaft, amongst others. Shame on me for not checking thier work. Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

If I were in your shoes I would remove the driveshaft, take it to a driveline shop and have them replace the joint. Be certain to mark the orientation of the shaft before you remove it so you can replace it in the same position

ON edit.......I'm assuming this is a diesel pusher

[alpinecpi]

Thanks Kix, I was told the U joint replacement could be done by removing the U joints only and not having to undo the bolts on the rear differencial to pull the whole driveline including both yokes from the trans and rear diff. do you know if this is the case ? I'm not comfortable driving the motorhome with the clearly damaged U joint.

[JimM68]

I've done a bunch of them, no never a diesel motorhome...

Sometimes there are straps or caps that hold one end on. One I did recently had a large 6 bolt flange on one end, unbolt that, and then the shaft had a slipjoint in it so I could just kinda squish it shorter and pop it out.

Once it's out, a big vise, some appropriately sized sockets, PB Blaster, and maybe a propane torch will make quick work of em.

[IC2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimM68 I've done a bunch of them, no never a diesel motorhome... Sometimes there are straps or caps that hold one end on. One I did recently had a large 6 bolt flange on one end, unbolt that, and then the shaft had a slipjoint in it so I could just kinda squish it shorter and pop it out. Once it's out, a big vise, some appropriately sized sockets, PB Blaster, and maybe a propane torch will make quick work of em.

NO - NO - NO. That is a great way to ruin a drive shaft, assuming you are using a BFH to beat on those sockets and then transferring that energy to the yoke. A decent machine shop will use a press, either a floor mounted heavy duty or something like this, shown below, but a larger size for commercial chassis.

As far as brand, probably a Spicer, but there are others. Then there are sizes - 1310/1350 and so on up the line, and to determine without seeing and actually measuring the cross width plus the cup size is next to impossible. Either take it to a shop or remove the drive shaft yourself. U-joints are relatively cheap.

Now, as far as lubing them, the best ones, according to a couple of hot rod drive shaft manufacturers are permanently greased -

[Mike Canter]

When they towed my MH they had to disconnect the driveshaft. It was a real trick on taking the bearing cups off. The guy that did had done a lot on trucks which are the same and I am pretty mechanically savvy but I don't think that I could do it that easily. Is the U-joint loose when you shake the driveshaft and does it clunk when you go from reverse to forward? This is a diesel pusher and it is a little different from a gasoline motor U-Joint about three time the size of a 1350 U-joint. I would look for a good truck repair place that is close. Doesn't have to be an RV place. Like I said this is not a "car" U-Joint and a car garage can mess it up. You need a truck guy.

[alpinecpi]

Thanks Guys for all the advise. I'm going to pull the driveshaft on Thursday, and take it to a truck repair shop to have the U Joints matched up and installed. The bearing caps appear to come off easily, hopefully I can manipulate the U Joints out of the yoke. I'll advise with the make and model of the U Joints when she's all back together.

[Diplomat Don]

alpinecpi.....A quick destroyer of u-joints on these motor homes is an incorrect ride height. It changes the angle on the shaft. it sounds like yours was a lack of lubrication, but it's something that should be mentioned.

I'm guessing that you'll either start greasing your own or watching more carefully in the future. Because of the torque, they recommend lubing the shaft every 5000 miles. I keep a small grease gun in the coach just for the driveshaft.

When lubing these shafts, you need to do both u-joints. Both u-joints have two grease fittings on opposing sides. Either one will lube the entire u-joint. The slip joint has a fitting in the middle of the shaft. If you just pump grease into it, it'll blow out the back near the u-joint and not push any out where it slips over the inner shaft. When greasing this one, you need to place a finger over the end end of the slip joint and between the u-joint. There is a hole there that will allow the grease to just pump out the back of the slip joint. Once you block it with your finger, the grease will fill up and come out the front where the two shafts slip over each other.

You may already know all of this....but I thought I would throw it out there!

[KIX]

Quote:

Originally Posted by alpinecpi Thanks Kix, I was told the U joint replacement could be done by removing the U joints only and not having to undo the bolts on the rear differencial to pull the whole driveline including both yokes from the trans and rear diff. do you know if this is the case ? I'm not comfortable driving the motorhome with the clearly damaged U joint.

Yes, that will work. The yokes on trans and diff will stay in place. Look at them closely for wear.

[Pusherpilot]

Got an oil change and chassis lube at Speedco in Joplin, Mo. When I started giving them instruction on what not to miss they invited me into the grease pit!! Stayed there till they torqued the drain plugs too............. (Didn't get any on me tho)

Ron

[alpinecpi]

Thanks again for the help. Spoke with Monaco tech service today and was impressed with the direction I was given. The drive shaft can be pulled out, as Kix stated, just by undoing the U joints. The U joints are Dana Spicer part #5-279X, for a 1610 series driveshaft. The cause of my U joint failure was lack of lubrication. Don also provided some valuable advise, regarding lubing the U joints and driveshaft every 5000 miles and be sure to plug the back hole in the driveshaft to force grease forward. I found the driveshaft was also lacking grease.

Lesson Learned: "Grease is your friend"

Part # cross reference 1610 series U Joints: Dana Spicer #5-279X
Neapco #4-0279
Borg Warner #114-516

[JimM68]

Quote:

Originally Posted by IC2 NO - NO - NO. That is a great way to ruin a drive shaft, assuming you are using a BFH to beat on those sockets and then transferring that energy to the yoke.

Where did I say anything about a BFH?
And beat on one of my expensive sockets? Never mind the freeking u joint, I ain't wrecking my tools.
Where did u get that anyway?

My vise will press u joint out slicker than snot.

[KIX]

alpinecpi.
Just be careful to not let the end caps fall off when you reinstall

[alpinecpi]

Thanks Guys,
She's all back together. Took about 2 hours, actually came apart and went back together easily. Bought a new grease gun and went through the whole underside of the coach. The U joint I removed was completely destroyed, but no damage to the Yoke. I was lucky this didn't happen on the road....... Jim