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Old 08-06-2013, 10:48 PM   #15
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I think you should recalculate the amperage or move the decimal point. 120 volt AC single phase and 400 watts power equates to around 3.3 amps. Also the inverter and fridge run off the house batteries so it is not a big load on the alternator unless the batteries are run down. a 3.3 amp draw is not very much.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:57 PM   #16
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Regarding the gauge on you dash, there are options.

This one can connect to both house and chassis battery banks.
It can give you info on voltage, remaining battery power, time between charges, etc.

Bogart Engineering TM-2025 RV Digital Meter 12/24V RV


I just installed mine and am still learning about it.

Maybe other long term owners can chime in here.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:15 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
I think you should recalculate the amperage or move the decimal point. 120 volt AC single phase and 400 watts power equates to around 3.3 amps. Also the inverter and fridge run off the house batteries so it is not a big load on the alternator unless the batteries are run down. a 3.3 amp draw is not very much.
my thoughts exactly

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Old 08-07-2013, 07:15 AM   #18
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Yes I was thinking it was along the lines of 3 to 4 amp draw. Which should be sustained by the batteries for a while. Which explains why folks swap out the RV fridges for a conventional. Really no need for lp if the alt did charge house batteries. Which I thought it did. But am I correct in hearing that it does not charge the house batt..
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:32 AM   #19
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Most of If not all Monaco motorhomes charge the house batteries when driving. They used to use a battery diode isolator in the nineties then switched to electronically controlled battery isolators later. Not sure what your year has.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:39 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
I think you should recalculate the amperage or move the decimal point. 120 volt AC single phase and 400 watts power equates to around 3.3 amps. Also the inverter and fridge run off the house batteries so it is not a big load on the alternator unless the batteries are run down. a 3.3 amp draw is not very much.

Mike the inverter is powering the frig.at 120v FROM 12v batteries as you know ....33 anps are drawn from the batteries at 12v and 3.3at 120v

What am I missing here
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:54 AM   #21
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First it wasn't specified if it was 12 volts or 120 volts so since the fridge is a 120 volt system the rating should have been at 120 volts which is 3.3 amps unless specified at 12 volts. I do not believe that the traditional camping/RV type fridge draws that much power with that heating element.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:03 AM   #22
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There are two heating elements at 225 watts each and draw 32.6 amps from the batteries when running down the road with the inverter on and the alt. has to make that up....period

unless you have a LOOOOOONG cord :>)
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:05 AM   #23
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Mike
You may have missed the OP's original problem here.......it was running down the road NOT plugged in
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:15 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
Most of If not all Monaco motorhomes charge the house batteries when driving. They used to use a battery diode isolator in the nineties then switched to electronically controlled battery isolators later. Not sure what your year has.

Mike,

Are you talking about a IRD or BIRD? I have neither. Which of the
add-on options do you like?

Ultra Trik-L-Start 5 Amp Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer

Does the Trik L Start do the same things as a BIRD?

Is there a better option for my 2006 Diplomat (I don't think I have
either IRD or BIRD, but not sure)

Thanks!
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:19 AM   #25
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A voltage gauge reads battery voltage and an amp meter reads alternator output.
run your generator to keep it cool. If it were me, I would not run it strictly off my batteries.
I agree!
CAUTION/WARNING: Many "answers" to forum questions on are only "opinions", (aka: guesses)..... others are just plain WRONG!
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