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Old 09-17-2017, 10:38 AM   #2395
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10boomer---Would you please post a picture or two of your Watts linkage. I'm curious as to how it is attached to the frame and the rear axle.
Thanks
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Old 09-17-2017, 12:00 PM   #2396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wackymac View Post
10boomer---Would you please post a picture or two of your Watts linkage. I'm curious as to how it is attached to the frame and the rear axle.

Thanks


You can see pictures as well as mounting instructions on Mike's website. Monacowatts.com. You won't regret doing the upgrades.
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Old 09-17-2017, 03:51 PM   #2397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wackymac View Post
10boomer---Would you please post a picture or two of your Watts linkage. I'm curious as to how it is attached to the frame and the rear axle.

Thanks


I'm on the road right now, ( not in coach) get back tonight. Rockymtn. Is right good explain. And picture on Monacowatts.com.
I can shoot a picture Wednesday if your not in a hurry.
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Old 09-18-2017, 04:05 AM   #2398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wackymac View Post
10boomer---Would you please post a picture or two of your Watts linkage. I'm curious as to how it is attached to the frame and the rear axle.
Thanks
wackymac,

The Watts link being discussed in this forum only works on 8 and 10 air bag Monaco Roadmaster chassis. If you still have the Fleetwood this Watts will not work for you.

Bob
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:18 AM   #2399
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Sorry about that. For some reason this link got sent to my email so I ASSUMEd
(I'm sure you know how that works) that it was for a Ford F53 chassis.

Bruce aka wackymac
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:34 AM   #2400
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For "mydogmax"

Max,

Regarding the fact that the tie rods are not perfectly parallel to the H-frame:

Although theoretically that is the "perfect" orientation of the tie rods, practically speaking they can be far from parallel before the operation of the Watts link is compromised. Basically, all the linkage is accomplishing is to prevent side-to-side movement of the H-frame where the linkage is attached. It will do that even with the tie rods not parallel to the H-frame crossmember.
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:43 AM   #2401
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mydogmax's H-Frame is a little closer to the 3"x 3" downtubes than most I've seen. Not by much though. While not perfectly aligned with the back of the H-Frame it will function just fine. This is more of a cosmetic issue. Perhaps mydogmax could post a few pictures.
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Old 09-19-2017, 02:18 PM   #2402
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installed front and rear, first test drive today, 7 knot cross wind. my wife even said it looked a lot better not seeing the steering wheel going back and forth! Before youd swear I was a drunk driver.
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Old 09-19-2017, 02:19 PM   #2403
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be glad to if someone tells me how.
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Old 09-22-2017, 04:27 PM   #2404
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Caster on a 2006 Diplomat (RR8R)

While you guys are on the subject of alignment, I have a question. I have a 2006 40' Diplomat on a RR8R (8 bag) Roadmaster Chassis. I just had it aligned at a reputable truck shop and they could only get 3.5 degrees caster. The specs in my manual and the information Monaco sent me says 6 degrees (manual says .5 degree tolerance and the information Monaco sent says 1 degree tolerance). I can tell you it drives MUCH better with the alignment done. (Toe in was out pretty far and they were able to add a little caster). I cannot help wonder if getting the caster into tolerance would help even more. Also, if I pursue getting the caster up near 6 degrees, can the axle on these use wedges to add angle? The tech thought a wedge was not appropriate for this axle. Any help finding the right technical information would be appreciated!
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Old 09-22-2017, 06:13 PM   #2405
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While you guys are on the subject of alignment, I have a question. I have a 2006 40' Diplomat on a RR8R (8 bag) Roadmaster Chassis. I just had it aligned at a reputable truck shop and they could only get 3.5 degrees caster. The specs in my manual and the information Monaco sent me says 6 degrees (manual says .5 degree tolerance and the information Monaco sent says 1 degree tolerance). I can tell you it drives MUCH better with the alignment done. (Toe in was out pretty far and they were able to add a little caster). I cannot help wonder if getting the caster into tolerance would help even more. Also, if I pursue getting the caster up near 6 degrees, can the axle on these use wedges to add angle? The tech thought a wedge was not appropriate for this axle. Any help finding the right technical information would be appreciated!


Call Kaiser they can help.
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Old 09-22-2017, 11:54 PM   #2406
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What can alignment do?

Quote:
Originally Posted by islandboy54 View Post
While you guys are on the subject of alignment, I have a question. I have a 2006 40' Diplomat on a RR8R (8 bag) Roadmaster Chassis. I just had it aligned at a reputable truck shop and they could only get 3.5 degrees caster. The specs in my manual and the information Monaco sent me says 6 degrees (manual says .5 degree tolerance and the information Monaco sent says 1 degree tolerance). I can tell you it drives MUCH better with the alignment done. (Toe in was out pretty far and they were able to add a little caster). I cannot help wonder if getting the caster into tolerance would help even more. Also, if I pursue getting the caster up near 6 degrees, can the axle on these use wedges to add angle? The tech thought a wedge was not appropriate for this axle. Any help finding the right technical information would be appreciated!
As you might have realized by now, I am not a great fan of spending $300+ on alignments that usually do nothing but correct toe-in, WITH ONE EXCEPTION. If you had insufficient toe-in, or worse yet toe-OUT, correcting that will help your wandering SOMEWHAT. It will not help it as much as correcting the REAL problem, which is the wobbling sub-assembly (H-frame) to which both your front and rear axles are attached.

Similarly, if your caster is insufficient, it will contribute to an "instability" in your steering. Without SOME amount of positive caster, your steering wheel has no tendency to come back to center after you have made a turn. Similarly, insufficient caster will cause less of a tendency to "stay centered" while driving down a smooth, straight highway.

I have no scientific evidence to support this OPINION, but I suspect that increasing your caster from 3.5* to 6.0* will have little beneficial effect. Increasing positive caster increases the "centering" effect, but going overboard in that direction introduces a "mushiness" and unresponsive feel to your steering.

Yes, there are wedges that can be inserted to increase caster. But I am sure you would find that stabilizing your front and rear H-frames would have FAR greater effect.

The more coaches I "cure" the more I am convinced that the two greatest "sacred cows" in the Monaco world are "alignment" and "shocks". Alignment has a 5% chance of improving the tracking stability. Replacing shocks, no matter the brand or the cost, has ZERO chance of improving tracking stability.

To have a coach that can be steered with two fingers even in vicious, gusting crosswinds, and when being passed by tractor-trailers requires (95 times out of 100) only two things--1) Tight steering components (to include adjusting your TRW or replacing your Sheppard) and 2) Stabilizing your H-frames.
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Old 09-23-2017, 06:07 AM   #2407
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More info

Thanks for the replies. Vanwill, Where would I go to get the H frame stabilized and what does it involve? I am guessing the guys that did my alignment are not familiar with it. BTW, I do not have the alignment sheets with me so I am going from memory, but I had one with toe in over .4 and one with toe out over .4 and as I recall, the spec is for each side to have toe in of .06. And no, I did not misplace the decimal point!
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Old 09-23-2017, 07:21 AM   #2408
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Answered my own question

Vanwill, I was just on monacowatts.com, made the connection, read the information and think I just answered my own question. Thanks! I just bookmarked the website so I can get back to it when I return home (traveling without the coach at the moment).
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