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Old 01-21-2018, 09:54 AM   #2563
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Come meet me at Q!

Guys, I am at Q in one of the outer rows on the far side. Gold and white 2000 Dynasty 36 with 2000 Silverado 1500 Z-71 parked in front.
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Old 01-22-2018, 07:43 PM   #2564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycarz View Post
This coach I use the Blue Ox Immobilizer, which has 2 U bolts to take up the slop both vertically and horizontally.

https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Anti-...SABEgIt2vD_BwE
Happycarz, I too use the U-bolt type clamps, except I made my own. One thing I noticed is that when you tighten the nuts just snug, the hitch is held tight where the U-bolt is, but the front end is not restricted from movement inside the receiver. The U-bolts have eliminated half the movement of the hitch, at the back end of the receiver, but does nothing for the movement at the front end of the hitch. There is no way you can tighten the U-bolts enough to eliminate the movement at the front of the hitch.

My solution to eliminate most of this movement was to put a vertical weld bead on the very front of the hitch to take up the excess space. If I position the nuts on the left, I weld on the right to position the front of the hitch to the left, tightening the entire hitch on the left side of the receiver. Do the same on the top to position the hitch on the bottom of the receiver. Then file the weld bead down until it will slide in the receiver with little difficulty.

Something you may to check to see much looseness you have in the receiver.
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Old 01-22-2018, 07:51 PM   #2565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alank View Post
Happycarz, I too use the U-bolt type clamps, except I made my own. One thing I noticed is that when you tighten the nuts just snug, the hitch is held tight where the U-bolt is, but the front end is not restricted from movement inside the receiver. The U-bolts have eliminated half the movement of the hitch, at the back end of the receiver, but does nothing for the movement at the front end of the hitch. There is no way you can tighten the U-bolts enough to eliminate the movement at the front of the hitch.



My solution to eliminate most of this movement was to put a vertical weld bead on the very front of the hitch to take up the excess space. If I position the nuts on the left, I weld on the right to position the front of the hitch to the left, tightening the entire hitch on the left side of the receiver. Do the same on the top to position the hitch on the bottom of the receiver. Then file the weld bead down until it will slide in the receiver with little difficulty.



Something you may to check to see much looseness you have in the receiver.


I did something very similar with a couple of welds lengthwise on the hitch so it fits a bit snug into the receiver tube.

Mike
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:35 AM   #2566
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Gladly Kurt, here is a link to the video I made while repairing a hitch riser. I use the same process when repairing towbar stingers and hitch receivers, I just video'd this as it was easier to access for the video.


As for the rod selection, the ER70S-2 being the proper material choice for the parent material but it was not handling the shock loads that the small reducers were experiencing. Upon showing these cracked welds to my local welding supply rep. and discussing he informed me that by using the 309L and it having a bit more nickel and chromium that when mixed with the mild steel the Martensitic cracking that I was experiencing should be either minimized or possibly eliminated. He mentioned that the small amount of nickel would allow for some elongation and help with the shock loads and the chromium would give the strength. He informed me that when these two are mixed with the mild steel they bring the properties of the molten puddle into their "sweet spot" if you will for strength, elongation as well as being somewhat corrosion resistant, although I don't think the corrosion resistance is actually there being mixed with the molten parent mild steel material. Since using the 309L these repairs have worked out beautifully ever since.

I hope you find the video informative.

Please keep one thing in mind however, I'm a mechanic and NOT a videographer.

Mike
Thanks Mike, Its always great watching your videos. I don't have the tools you do, - or the level of skill, so my stuff is a little more..."backyard".
But this gives me some great ideas and information, Thanks again.
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Old 01-23-2018, 11:15 AM   #2567
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Originally Posted by Kurt Averill View Post
Thanks Mike, Its always great watching your videos. I don't have the tools you do, - or the level of skill, so my stuff is a little more..."backyard".
But this gives me some great ideas and information, Thanks again.
You're welcome Kurt. Glad it was informative.

Thanks for the comments and for watching my videos.

Mike
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Old 05-01-2018, 04:39 PM   #2568
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Looking for experienced installation mechanic and materials for front Watts link and rear cross bars on 2007 Monaco. Thanks, Scott, Katy, Texas
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Old 05-01-2018, 04:50 PM   #2569
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Looking for experienced mechanic/shop and materials for front Watts linkage and rear cross bars for 2007 Monaco. Thanks, Scott, Katy, Texas.
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:51 PM   #2570
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Looking for experienced mechanic/shop and materials for front Watts linkage and rear cross bars for 2007 Monaco. Thanks, Scott, Katy, Texas.
Where to Buy

Installation Shops
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:08 PM   #2571
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Thanks for posting these links.

ronspradley
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Old 05-02-2018, 02:33 PM   #2572
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I installed my own, its really not hard.
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:26 PM   #2573
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Meet and Greet

If any of you are at the HR419 Maintenance Session in Goshen IN.
Van Williams (VanWill) , myself (CrazyKnight) and Mike Hughes (MHughes) of Monaco Watts are all in attendance. Feel free to come on by and say hello at site 260, we are all parked together.

Van and I will be presenting 2 seminars. Chassis info including Watts Links and Steering Gears. Mike Hughes (Monaco Watts) has a vendor booth set up and will be doing some installations.

Cheers,

Craig
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:26 PM   #2574
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I installed my own, its really not hard.


X2.....

If you are mechanically inclined, it really isn't a difficult project. It does however made a big improvement
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Old 05-02-2018, 05:51 PM   #2575
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Originally Posted by CrazyKnight View Post
If any of you are at the HR419 Maintenance Session in Goshen IN.

Van Williams (VanWill) , myself (CrazyKnight) and Mike Hughes (MHughes) of Monaco Watts are all in attendance. Feel free to come on by and say hello at site 260, we are all parked together.



Van and I will be presenting 2 seminars. Chassis info including Watts Links and Steering Gears. Mike Hughes (Monaco Watts) has a vendor booth set up and will be doing some installations.



Cheers,



Craig


Wow, the three of you together, now thatís a party! Have a great time!
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Old 05-03-2018, 04:11 AM   #2576
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How would I go about getting notices for Roadmaster chassis maintenance sessions? I have not seen them before. Thanks.
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