Community Forums

rmcb · 05-24-2015, 12:05 PM

Mike,

I like your use of a top tension bolt to reduce rocking of the H-frame brackets. I have noticed that mine moved a little after the last trip down I-5 and found the bolts holding the two clamp plates needed re-torquing. I was thinking of drilling and tapping for some set screws on the side that connects to the links, so I could run them in to "bite" into the H-frame.

Angling the pivot is a great idea for increasing clearances.

I also like your use of U-bolts. I may retrofit mine with some if I can get the right size, or decide to make them up myself.

Your continual refinement of this design is much appreciated.

I noticed in one of Van's post that you found a Bridgeport. Congrats. I wound up tearing mine completely down, repainting and replacing a bunch of parts. I found H&W Machine to be a good source for parts, data and support. They will even talk to you about technical issues if you call: H&W Machine Repair & Rebuilding - Parts and Service for the Metalworking Industry.

All the best,

Roy

mhughes · 05-24-2015, 01:01 PM

Hi Roy,

I originally had two bolts, one on the outside of each u-bolt. Then noticed that the shock mount was in the way so I resorted to a single bolt. We'll see how well it works.

I had those u-bolts custom made by Plattsburg Spring. Costs much more than 4 - 3/8" x 3" bolts but since I don't need the additional plate the costs are about the same in the end.

I wound up buying a mill "project". Well used Lagun FT2 for $900. I've partially torn it down and have started restoring. Probably take me all summer but in the end I'll have a nice machine with new DRO and VFD drive.

rmcb · 05-25-2015, 10:14 AM

Mike,

I am sure you will have fun rebuilding the Lagun and when done, lots of fun using it. Sounds like a great price.

I stripped my mill all the way down, and repainted it with catalyzed single stage urethane. It really makes a nice hard finish. But I also found some surprises and wound up having to replace some pretty pricey parts.

Good luck with your rebuild.

Roy

rmcb · 05-25-2015, 10:22 AM

Mike,

BTW, if you don't already have a lead on a VFD, I used a Hitachi that I got from Drives Warehouse. I'm pretty happy with it. They have good prices, fast shipping and good customer service.

Roy

zmotorsports · 05-25-2015, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmcb

Mike,

BTW, if you don't already have a lead on a VFD, I used a Hitachi that I got from Drives Warehouse. I'm pretty happy with it. They have good prices, fast shipping and good customer service.

Roy

I too can testify to the Hitachi VFD as I have the WJ200 model on my lathe and have been very happy with its performance. My mill is single phase and variable speed so no need for VFD in that application.

Mike.

mhughes · 05-25-2015, 02:01 PM

Thanks for the advice on the VFD.

I've started removing four layers of paint from the base. Next month I'll sand and epoxy primer it. Then put on a good coat of machinery gray polyurethane. I'll do the rest one part at a time until it is back together.

This is/was pretty worn out. About 0.065 backlash on the screws, no more adjustment left in the gibs, missing knobs, handles, etc even though the seller (craigslist) claimed it was low time and in very god condition. In fact, the pictures he posted on craigslist may not have been the same mill. Either that or the pictures were taken a decade ago.

But, It was about what I expected for $900. I have no visions that I can make it new, but I can make it usable and it will be far, far better than a drill press.

By the way, I have finished up a rear watts link set using tie rod ends. Just took it off my coach (trial fitting). I need to sand and paint tomorrow. I'll post a few pics.

westwing · 05-25-2015, 07:19 PM

My Safari came with 2 1/2 degrees Castor. It would wander like mad. The BF Goodrich rubber suspension did not lend itself to much castor. Monaco said make it 6 and I did 5. That improved handling 80 percent. Now I wish I went 6 Degrees.

Cheers, Jim

Sheriffbubba · 05-27-2015, 01:15 PM

How much time and cost did the alignment shop charge you to adjust for positive castor? I'm thinking about checking into this with a local alignment shop... Everyone that I've heard that has adjusted for more positive castor, has had good results as far as reducing the wandering.

Thank you. Brian.

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deSanford · 05-27-2015, 03:06 PM

Sheriffbubba do you have a Sheppard steering box? Sanford

YC1 · 05-27-2015, 08:13 PM

Yep, an alignment can help but it is NOT the answer. I had two alignments done. The first one was about 250, the second was close to 400. Neither solved the wandering issue. Do the research on the type of steering gear you have as suggested.

Sheriffbubba · 05-27-2015, 08:15 PM

Yes I do have the Shepard steering box. It has about 1.5 inches of play in it.... I fully intend on replacing it with the TRW as soon as I can arrange it. I'm wondering if adding some positive castor and a little toe in might benefit me until I can get the swap done.
I have a 1200 mile round trip down to southern Oregon next week and unfortunately I won't be able to get the swap done before then... (Working too much and poor planning on my part.)

Brian.

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deSanford · 05-27-2015, 10:02 PM

Brian don't waste your time or money on an alignment at this time get the Sheppard swapped out when you get back from Oregon. Sanford

YC1 · 05-28-2015, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deSanford

Brian don't waste your time or money on an alignment at this time get the Sheppard swapped out when you get back from Oregon. Sanford

Ditto:

Ride height (you can adjust yourself but must be very careful)
Steering box. (800-1200) I did it myself so closer to 800
Shocks 800 + labor or do yourself
X bars 200 + labor or do yourself
sway bars 700-1500 + labor or do it yourself
ride control valves 175 per pair. 4 pairs needed. easy do it yourself
Alignment (200-500)
This is a combined shock and sway bar kit Source Engineering Inc | Custom RV Chassis | Eugene, OR
Watts link Must be custom built and installed at this time

And for fun:
Source Engineering Inc | Custom RV Chassis | Eugene, OR Instant HP and huge reduction in noise. Mileage improvement too. About $650. Do it yourself project.

Diesel Power Digi CRTV Power Module for 2005-2015 Cummins 8.3L ISC & 8.9L ISL Diesel Pusher RVs - Parleys Diesel Performance

Instant HP and mileage improvement. Thirty minutes to an hour to install. The dyno results are amazing and so is the acceleration.

What a fun and expensive hobby this is.

Sheriffbubba · 05-28-2015, 07:24 AM

Thanks guys, sounds like good advice to not get ahead of myself and just wait until I can get the steering box switched out.

YC1, Thank you for letting me know about the Source Engineering fan and the performance module. I would love to get both of those eventually. I wanted to let you know that I got the pm that you sent and I very much appreciate it and all of the advice...
I will send you a pm when I get a chance. I love the fact that you really know what works and doesn't with your rig because I have the exact same model. All your hard work and knowledge is great for someone like me that is still pretty new to all of this!

Thanks again. Brian.

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