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Old 12-30-2009, 10:08 AM   #15
flyinraptr is offline
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Originally Posted by Our Time View Post
You are correct. Either the bypass hose or filter needs to be connected for the water system to work. The device next to the shower handle is a remote temperature sensor. I have one slightly different than the one pictured, but it allows you to monitor the wet bay temp during cold weather operation. You should have a heater on your coach you can turn on to keep the compartment warm. Caution, if you use that heater without the gen running or external power, the heater will eat up the batteries quickly!
Gotcha ... so obviously the bypass hose is already connected (water system is working) ... so it seems I just need to move the filter itself and plumb it as shown in the picture.

On the remote temp sensor .. do you have it tied into the coach's monitoring system or a separate device inside the coach?

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Old 12-30-2009, 10:23 AM   #16
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Mama, Nice picture, I don't even have picture of my own water bay. The only thing that I've added are two brackets holding the back fender on. I guess I'll have to take a picture for myself.
..or you can wait till QZ and I will get another one!
Mike...I do have a question for you though...just where was that filter originally?

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Old 12-30-2009, 10:25 AM   #17
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This is one case where I actually prefer a separate filter, an "in line" type that goes between the park and your rig.. I'd re-plumb the existing filter so it feeds not the sink faucet, but a second "Single" faucet mounted in the hole for the sprayer (There should be two of those I hope) note some drilling may be needed. Or just bypass it completly.

Now, the advantage of an In-line filter

I run two pressure regulators.. One is a WATTS set to 60 PSI, it protects the hose and filter from the high pressure of the park (The park warns to use a regulator it's that high)

The other, at the inlet to the rig, is 45psi

Thus there is a spare 15PSI to push water through the filter when I shower.. This is a "Whole house" filter.

now... with an "Internal" filter.. the 45PSI regulator would reduce pressure before the filter and the water flow would be greatly reduced.
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Old 12-30-2009, 10:35 AM   #18
flyinraptr is offline
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
This is one case where I actually prefer a separate filter, an "in line" type that goes between the park and your rig.. I'd re-plumb the existing filter so it feeds not the sink faucet, but a second "Single" faucet mounted in the hole for the sprayer (There should be two of those I hope) note some drilling may be needed. Or just bypass it completly.

Now, the advantage of an In-line filter

I run two pressure regulators.. One is a WATTS set to 60 PSI, it protects the hose and filter from the high pressure of the park (The park warns to use a regulator it's that high)

The other, at the inlet to the rig, is 45psi

Thus there is a spare 15PSI to push water through the filter when I shower.. This is a "Whole house" filter.

now... with an "Internal" filter.. the 45PSI regulator would reduce pressure before the filter and the water flow would be greatly reduced.
Thanks - my understanding is the standard water filter location on the '08 Diplomat handles the entire coach rather then just the kitchen faucet as was the case on my '04 Safari Simba. But definitely intend to run pressure regulator .... is a WATTS better than the rest?
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Old 12-30-2009, 11:48 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by flyinraptr View Post
Gotcha ... so obviously the bypass hose is already connected (water system is working) ... so it seems I just need to move the filter itself and plumb it as shown in the picture.

On the remote temp sensor .. do you have it tied into the coach's monitoring system or a separate device inside the coach?
The sensor is a stand alone with a atomic clock. Available at Wally World, Sams etc. I have one sensor in the fridge and one in the wet bay.

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