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Old 01-30-2017, 07:58 PM   #1
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Water Leak

2000 Dynasty. I just purchased. Wall paper has a little damaged under passenger side Bedroom window."I noticed this when purchasing but felt solid everywhere. Outside of coach looks great. Some evidence of water stain on the window and screen. I figured the issue was the window needed to be pulled and the putty or foam replaced. Window sure appears tight around the frame to coach out side.
Then I noticed very minor ceiling stain inside the wall cabinets above the window. Upon some inspection I noticed the top area of the seal bead that I guess seals the roof and end caps to the wall side has a bit of gap and I could see cracks in the caulk.
Reading some other water leak posts on IRV2 I think I read that this bead trim can be pulled off to seal under it then glue it back on? "Not sure how this would come off without damage to the paint on the trim." Am I understanding this correctly? Or should i just run a good bead of silicone on top of the trim to the roof?
This does not appear serious at this time. where the worst of the wall paper damage is just under the window, the wood feels as solid as anywhere or I would not have purchased the coach if the wall was soft.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:57 PM   #2
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leak

Go to my profile and look at my post on wall to roof separation. It sounds like I had the same issue as you only mine hadn't leaked inside yet. This is a common issue with our coaches, I have a 2004 executive. Mine had pulled loose above all three slide out toppers. If you have any questions feel free to ask me. I also have some posts where I explained what I did to fix my coach, they are under expansion spots on side of coach. By the way, we're almost neighbors, we live in Mason City, IA.

Dave
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Old 01-31-2017, 03:50 AM   #3
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I agree with Woodman, this is a common issue. Recently I experienced roof to walk separation on my driver side front full side. This was from the wrath of Mother Nature on my way to Quartzite.
It looked bad at first glance, Captjake1 and a few others helped me complete the repair better than new.
You are correct the plastic cap that covers the metal seam bracket will need to be repainted. FYI instead of the original 1" SS screws we used 1 1/2" much better.
Use a razor knife to break the seal above and below seal. Having the seam exposed to sunlight is helpful.
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Old 01-31-2017, 07:44 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodman018 View Post
Go to my profile and look at my post on wall to roof separation. It sounds like I had the same issue as you only mine hadn't leaked inside yet. This is a common issue with our coaches, I have a 2004 executive. Mine had pulled loose above all three slide out toppers. If you have any questions feel free to ask me. I also have some posts where I explained what I did to fix my coach, they are under expansion spots on side of coach. By the way, we're almost neighbors, we live in Mason City, IA.

Dave
Dave and 10 boomer, thanks for the info. I am not sure I can get this done this year. Might have to just silicone best I can for this season and start on that next fall. I do not have a BR slide only in LR. If anyone has photos or anyone has done a Youtube video on this procedure please share?!?! How do you know for sure (other than tearing into it) that the screws are popping and it is not just the trim sealant drying out and cracking?
Dave, I drive past you (kind of) I-35 to bring my son to and from college in Minneapolis. Thanks for now!
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Old 01-31-2017, 08:55 PM   #5
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I must have been lucky with mine because I did not have to repaint the molding strip. Just remember that silicone does not stick to silicone calking and the more you put on, the worse it will be to fix later. Cleaning the silicone off took longer than the actual repair. Trust me, if there is a gap below that strip, your screws are broken off and you will need to add more screws.

Dave
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Old 02-01-2017, 08:00 AM   #6
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leak

Well the only "gap" I have is about 1/16" on the top side of the strip . I can just see small gaps in the sealant behind it and assume water is weeping into the tiny cracks. I am sure you are correct about the screws and I plan to work on this. I just want to make sure I don't mess it up. so here are some questions.
I assume the procedure to remove the molding is
#1(protect the paint on the coach as best as possible above and below the molding)
#2 then use a thin razor knife/cutter to slice the glue and then peel the molding off? The glue behind mine is very hard. Does not appear to be a silicone spongy product. Do I need to peel the entire molding or just in the area effected?
#3 what is the best sealant to use to re-stick the molding?
Thanks to you all.
Rusty
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:58 PM   #7
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There are a few post by Rex Darley that covers this totally and yes you can remove the trim by using a small putty knife or screw driver to pop it loose at the bottom then carefully remove the trim after a ft or so it easily pulls off, I suspect you have more than a small area that needs attention Rex posted a detail report that I have also posted a few times. I recently had to do the passenger side of our coach and plan on doing the driver side this spring, I did use longer SS Screws and you may have to go up in size if rusted very bad. One thing that will help on reinstalling the strip. Is marking the strip and the roof every few feet.
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walt2137 View Post
There are a few post by Rex Darley that covers this totally and yes you can remove the trim by using a small putty knife or screw driver to pop it loose at the bottom then carefully remove the trim after a ft or so it easily pulls off, I suspect you have more than a small area that needs attention Rex posted a detail report that I have also posted a few times. I recently had to do the passenger side of our coach and plan on doing the driver side this spring, I did use longer SS Screws and you may have to go up in size if rusted very bad. One thing that will help on reinstalling the strip. Is marking the strip and the roof every few feet.
Thanks Walt can you tell me how to search and find this info by Mr. Darley?
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Old 02-01-2017, 06:06 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Rusty Kramer View Post
Thanks Walt can you tell me how to search and find this info by Mr. Darley?
Rusty I will get of my old lazy rump and I pad and go in the office to get on my computer to find the file in my Docs and paste below, Rex also repaired quite a few folks roof Free in Foley AL he was a great guy, Rex is no longer with us but he left a lot of repair info that we continue to use.

Roof to sidewall repair
Where the roof and sidewall join I had a problem. The roof to sidewall opened up just
above my driver’s window on my coach, however on a friends it was between his slides.
Mine had screws and they were rusted to the point they broke off. At some point water
had gotten inside the area and caused the screws to rust.
The trim strip cover between the roof and side wall is removable. It is a rubber/plastic
piece that snaps on over a metal backer. The metal backer is screwed to the wall
where the roof meets the wall. If the cover is painted, be very very careful removing it
and DO NOT BEND it or you will crack the paint.
To remove the cover, first cut the caulk above and below the cover edge. Then you
can gently rotate one edge and it will come off. You may need a stiff putty knife to
assist in getting the first few inches off and then the rest can be done by hand. Clean
all the caulk off the cover and coach using a plastic putty knife and clean up with
denatured alcohol.
Now drill new holes for 3/16” pop rivets with a grip range of at least ˝” to 5/8” or a bit
longer. I placed more rivets that original screws. Now put a dab of caulk over the rivet
end, not much, just enough to close the center hole.
Replace the cover and caulk top and bottom using Geocel 2300. You can get it in
white, clear or black. Tape off above and below the caulk area with blue painters tape
and near the edge of the cover so you have only the area you want caulk to adhere to
exposed. Place the caulk and spray on a solution of water and dish soap on the fresh
caulk and use your finger to smooth the caulk and remove any excess. Then peel the
tape off, spray again and wipe with your finger to smooth out the caulk edges where
the tape was removed.
Your coach may have rivets rather than screws, and if so they were either too short or
incorrectly placed and did not penetrate the metal behind the roof and sidewall. Also if
you have full body paint, you will have to repaint the area where caulk is placed as the
old caulk will need to be removed. If your paint is black in that area, you are in luck as
you can get the caulk in black. Just be very careful cleaning the old caulk off.
Rex Darley 01 Diplomat 40 PBD
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Old 02-02-2017, 08:21 AM   #10
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Thanks Walt. This helps a lot. I had never read anything about the trim bead being mounted to a metal channel, makes much more sense now of what I am going to find. Sounds like a lot of work but I will get it done.
thank you all!
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Old 02-02-2017, 11:31 AM   #11
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Rusty you probably won't have to drill new holes on the Dyn roof as it was attached with screws instead of rivets, I susgest replacing with SS screws .
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Old 02-15-2017, 11:53 PM   #12
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All this California rain exposed yet another leak in my roof. It appeared as a small drip at the rear corner of the passenger front window. I immediately suspected the crank-up tv antenna as it was the source of an earlier leak, and when I removed the internal handle and rotation plate I could feel that there was water on the upper surface of the ceiling panel. Since it was still raining, I covered the antenna base with a plastic sheet and weighted it down to stop any rain from getting in. However, in the subsequent days of rain, the leak was still there. When the rain stopped for a few days, I crawled around looking for alternate leak sites. In the same area if the roof were a radio antenna, a KVH TrackVision satellite antenna, and air horns. Everything looked ok, but I couldn't really get a good look at the sat antenna mounting, so I took it off. The sat antenna is about 30 inches in diameter and has a flat bottom. The motor home has a arched roof, so KVH designed a mount to accept that curvature without causing a stress that would damage the antenna or the roof. Bolted to the antenna baseplate are 4 aluminum plates that extend outward and are screwed to the roof. Those plates flex to provide a secure mount to the curved roof without over-stressing anything. The caulking looked ok, but when I cleaned one off, I discovered that there was no sealant on the underside where the screws attached the plates to the roof. The screws had rust on them, evidencing that they were getting wet. The same thing was happening on all the mounting plates. I reattached all the plates with a liberal application of polyurethane self leveling sealant in the screw area both under and over the mounting plate. I'm confident that I've solved that leak.

I'm writing this as it might be of some value to those trying to track down an elusive leak. Since both if the leaks I have tracked down were caused by poor workmanship at the factory, I've come to the conclusion that final caulking is a entry level job.

Dick L '04 HR Imperial
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