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Old 01-12-2018, 06:21 PM   #1
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Water pressure

Have a 10 gal Atwood water heater installed new less than one year ago. Recently hot water pressure is very low, almost a trickle. Cold water pressure fine. I followed instructions to establish air space, as per the Atwood manual. Did this twice. Still low pressure. Do you think I nee a new pressure relief valve.
As always, thank you in advance.
Frank
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Old 01-12-2018, 06:26 PM   #2
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I don't think you need a new pressure relief valve. That releases only under high pressure and dumps outside of the water system.
Have you flushed the tank?
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Old 01-12-2018, 06:29 PM   #3
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Are your winterizing valves turned on all the way?
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Old 01-12-2018, 08:15 PM   #4
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Sounds like the check valve on the output if the water heater is starting to go. Mine went out and completely shut off hot water last summer. Mine lasted about 10 years. Strange that yours would only last 1 year. Maybe it's got some debris partially clogging it. Stay at a campground on well water recently?

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Old 01-12-2018, 08:40 PM   #5
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X2- to check the WH's outlet check valve. I think Atwood uses one with plastic inside parts that can break and clog up the flow. I'd replace it with an all brass check valve.

One way you could check this is to open the bottom drain on your WH. If the water comes out with good pressure and the pump continues to running providing pressure, then you most likely have good pressure up to the WH and the trouble is downstream from there. Please remember when you first open the bottom WH drain, the water will gush out due to the head pressure inside the tank, but that should last only a few minutes if the line is blocked upstream from the WH. Just for what's it worth.
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:47 AM   #6
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And the water coming out is very hot. Ask me how I know that!
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Old 01-13-2018, 01:46 PM   #7
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Great- you now know he WH is working well. Any progress on the downstream pressure? You are OK I hope?
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Old 01-13-2018, 02:13 PM   #8
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Frank-

The hot water check valve is normally attached to the hot water outlet on the tank. You can give it a light rap or two with a small hammer. That might unstick the innards. Don't hit it hard enough to deform the water heater outlet, though.

The hot water check valve is part of the winterizing system. It will likely fail again, brass or plastic.

You have the option of re-piping the water heater to eliminate the check valve altogether. I did it on my coach. Let us know if you want any details.
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Old 01-13-2018, 02:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mb2875 View Post
And the water coming out is very hot. Ask me how I know that!
Safer way to see if the tank is pressurized is to trip the P&T valve manually.

Removing a plug under pressure w hot water behind it is asking for trouble.
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Old 01-13-2018, 02:39 PM   #10
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Atwood water heaters do not come from OEM with check valves installed (Nor so Suburban)

THAT is done by RV MFG during installation of water heater

'Nipple' screwed into HOT Outlet will be the check valve.....just a cheap plastic plunger/spring/O-ring assembly.
They get clogged with crud/scale from hard water, jam up and/or O-ring fails

Personally I do not like having a check valve ----have a 3 valve system instead/no check valves
Cold Inlet Valve (Open/In service---Close/Winterize)
Hot Outlet Valve (Open/In Service..Close/Winterize)
Bypass Valve (Close/In Service---Open/Winterize)




T&P Relief Valve is 'Last Ditch' Safety Device----Pops Open at 210*F/150 PSI
'T-Stat' is the heat cycle controlling t-stat.....Opens at 140*F to stop heat cycle and Closes at 110*F to allow reheating cycle
'ECO' is the High Temp T-stat (Energy Cut Off)....shuts down overheating at 180*F should T-stat fail. Triggers RED FAULT Light and heater 'Lock Out'. ECO will reset at 150*F but FAULT Light/Lock out has to be reset by turning ON switch OFF then back ON





Air Gap.....that is for 'Pressure Control'.....water SWELLS when it is heated. Air can be compressed/Water can NOT. Air allows for the swelling of hot water W/O a large increse in pressure. No Air Gap..hot water swells........pressure goes way up causing T&P Relief Valve to 'WEEP'
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Old 01-13-2018, 03:16 PM   #11
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Quite a few Atwood water heaters have a mixing valve on the back of the tank. The idea is they take the hot water temperature up much higher 180f then the mixing valve mix cold water with the hot water to give you 120f water. This way you get 15 gallons of hot water from a 10 gallon tank. The problem is where the very hot water and the cold water mixes it causes the hard water contaminates in the water to concentrate. This cause the valve to stick and restrict the hot water. The harder the water the sooner problems will occur. Living in Tucson with really hard water I would have to remove the mixing valve and clean the valve out every 6 months. Do a search on Atwood mixing valve. It only affects the hot water flow.
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Old 01-13-2018, 07:35 PM   #12
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Quite a few Atwood water heaters have a mixing valve on the back of the tank. The idea is they take the hot water temperature up much higher 180f then the mixing valve mix cold water with the hot water to give you 120f water. This way you get 15 gallons of hot water from a 10 gallon tank. The problem is where the very hot water and the cold water mixes it causes the hard water contaminates in the water to concentrate. This cause the valve to stick and restrict the hot water. The harder the water the sooner problems will occur. Living in Tucson with really hard water I would have to remove the mixing valve and clean the valve out every 6 months. Do a search on Atwood mixing valve. It only affects the hot water flow.
Quite true........the EXT Models use the Mixing Valve and are prone to clogging from hard water deposits
T-stat is 160*F
ECO is same 180*F
T&P Relief same 210*F/150 psi

Mixing Valve set for 130*F out

2 Models......6 gal tank /equivalent to 9 gal and a 10 gal tank/equivalent to a 16 gal
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