Community Forums

Hurk · 08-28-2016, 10:42 AM

In my 2007 Monaco the manual states there is a built in regulator set at45 psi but they recommend an external one to protect the hose from exploding? I use an external 45psi one but my water pressure is reduced way too much. Took off external one and creat pressure. I am trusting the built in one to protect my plumbing am I ok with this?

windsorbill · 08-28-2016, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hurk

In my 2007 Monaco the manual states there is a built in regulator set at45 psi but they recommend an external one to protect the hose from exploding? I use an external 45psi one but my water pressure is reduced way too much. Took off external one and creat pressure. I am trusting the built in one to protect my plumbing am I ok with this?

If you do have one internally, I personally would not trust it. It's nearly 10 years old. They do fail or loose their ability to regulate. I've seen pressures in some camp grounds as high as 115 lbs

. With pex piping, it's a disaster waiting to happen.

consider a Valterra brand. I like it better than others. They make an adjustable one which is effective. It screws right on the CG hose bib and you connect your hose to it. I've seen them for $50 or so at MacarrioRV.

Hurk · 08-28-2016, 12:16 PM

Your probably right 10 years is pushing it. I like the idea of an adjustable one but reviews are they only last 1-2 years. I guess $50 for peace of mind and better water flow maybe worth it.

Steve Ownby · 08-28-2016, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hurk

Your probably right 10 years is pushing it. I like the idea of an adjustable one but reviews are they only last 1-2 years. I guess $50 for peace of mind and better water flow maybe worth it.

You can also buy a home type Watts or equal at one of the big box stores and add appropriate fitting to build you own. They will have a tag showing the factory set pressure (usually 45) and it will last forever. Also it will flow the max water volume.

YC1 · 08-28-2016, 01:03 PM

My 2008 Endeavor does not have one that I can find and no reference in the manual. I have used external ones that do reduce the flow a lot.

There are two check valves in mine. One on the water heater and one on the valve that switches from shore water to tank water. The hot water heater one just failed and I had intermittent water from there. The water pressure had been dropping from the hwh for several months prior.

palehorse89 · 08-28-2016, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Ownby

You can also buy a home type Watts or equal at one of the big box stores and add appropriate fitting to build you own. They will have a tag showing the factory set pressure (usually 45) and it will last forever. Also it will flow the max water volume.

X2 on what Steve said, I am at a resort in Tennessee and when I went to dump the other day, I noticed my incoming pressure was at 130# ! Told the owner, and he had to replace the "Watts" regulator for that loop I am in. Problem fixed. He and one of his workers use radio's to talk back and forth and used my gauges to adjust the loop pressure on the new regulator they installed. Can't get nothing better than a Watts regulator.........but they do fail, as everything does.

MSHappyCampers · 08-28-2016, 02:12 PM

I would not trust the internal regulator, even if it exists! Most of the cheap in-line regulators severely restrict the flow. I found one that provides full throughput from the spigot. I bought it with the pressure gauge so I can monitor the performance! Check out my thread on this.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f59/love-...ge-283266.html

This is where I got it! https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/P...Regulators.htm

Gary8346 · 08-30-2016, 02:12 PM

I have a related question. Recently the check/regulator valve connected to the City/tank fill valve failed and now if I remove the hose I get water blowing out the hose connection when the valve is in the vertical city water position. It stops if I move the valve to the horizontal tank fill position.

My 2006 Monaco has a huge plastic cover over all of the plumbing in the wet bay so I've been reluctant to try to get behind that plastic wall. How much of a project is that? How much has to be removed to get that wall off? I also have lousy pressure inside. I assume I'll be able to improve that by replacing the valve or valves causing the problem.

Gary8346 · 08-30-2016, 02:16 PM

[QUOTE=MSHappyCampers;3229534]I would not trust the internal regulator, even if it exists! Most of the cheap in-line regulators severely restrict the flow. I found one that provides full throughput from the spigot. I bought it with the pressure gauge so I can monitor the performance! Check out my thread on this.

I got one of those and used it once before I left it hooked to a hose bib when I left the camp site. I didn't feel too bad because I found it the same way.

windsorbill · 08-30-2016, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary8346

I have a related question. Recently the check/regulator valve connected to the City/tank fill valve failed and now if I remove the hose I get water blowing out the hose connection when the valve is in the vertical city water position. It stops if I move the valve to the horizontal tank fill position.

My 2006 Monaco has a huge plastic cover over all of the plumbing in the wet bay so I've been reluctant to try to get behind that plastic wall. How much of a project is that? How much has to be removed to get that wall off? I also have lousy pressure inside. I assume I'll be able to improve that by replacing the valve or valves causing the problem.

Taking the plastic cover off is tedious but not difficult. You have to disconnect the valve and I have to remove the shower faucet.

When putting back in, I found it's easiest to set plastic panel in place and connect all the valves, faucets, etc, BEFORE I screw the panel to the side walls. This allows you to move it around a little to help line everything up.

The check valve is directly behind the plastic wall. You'll see it immediately once you gain access behind it.

Gary8346 · 08-30-2016, 08:49 PM

Thanks you've given me the confidence to get into that mess. Now maybe someone can tell me how to get to the back of my hot water heater and figure out why I don't have shore power hot water.

YC1 · 08-30-2016, 11:23 PM

I just changed mine yesterday. It is a bit of a pain to get the plastic panel moved but it does not have to come out. Just forward and down a bit.

This is my wet bay cut down. I have trimmed even more and move things around a bit. Yesterday I turned the water hose reel around 180 degrees so the hose comes off the top.

spyderRV · 08-30-2016, 11:38 PM

I used one of these.

l1v3fr33ord1 · 08-31-2016, 05:18 AM

It must be the season for wet bay work. Here are some before and in-progress photos for our coach. A Watts regulator (on order) will go on the wall to the right, under the water filter input. I plan on checking the hose pressure with a separate gauge, then adjusting the regulator to suit.

Gary8346-

I found the panel would not come out without detaching the cables from the dump valves. I fixed that in the rebuild with the aluminum angle shown in the first in-progress picture. Other than that, it took some tipping and twisting, but the panel came out. As Myron did, I shortened the panel- in my case, by nine inches.

The saying that comes to mind after removing the panel is "Beyond here be dragons." How much you clean up the spaghetti is up to you.