Water Pump Latching Controller

[04Diplomat]

My 2004 Diplomat Manual says the latching controller is next to the water pump in the service bay. But, it's not! Any idea where to find this? Need to check or replace the Intellitec latching controller since the 3 pump switches won't shut the pump off.

[ahicks]

The switches can turn the pump on, but not off?

The controller on mine is near the main (120v) power panel. Mine wasn't working at all (on or off). Tracked it down to a diode on the board that wasn't supplying power to the signal wire. That was replaced and I was back in business!

[Diplomat Don]

Mine was hidden behind the utility panel in the water pump bay.

[nodine]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don Mine was hidden behind the utility panel in the water pump bay.

04 Diplomat,

Don has it correct. It is mounted high up and about 18 inches back on the side of the frame cover and 6 inches to the left of the snap disk. Chances are you will not be able to see it without removing the white panel. That is a real chore and not for the casual tinker. I have removed mine twice and can attest to the difficulty. I just put the white panel back Wednesday after installing Sealevel Tank Sensors.

Bob

[Robi.1014]

04 Dip,
To reassure AHicks, my controller decided to turn ON permanently (some 4 years back) and never turn off. I guess that's better than having it the other way 'round.

My solution was to not fix it. I use the pump at all times (even if there is city-water pressure available), so it's a "don't care" for me. When something else fails in that compartment, then is when I'll make the repair. The fact that this little logic box failed after 2 years of service really ticked me off. Otherwise, I love my "dip".

[04Diplomat]

Well, thanks guys. Guess I'll remove the panel in the service bay and start looking. My 3 switches are all on. I just can't shut the pump off. All was fine for 7 years. Then I hosed out the service bay one day and the switches stopped working. Figure I may have shorted that controller out or loosened a wire connector on it.

[ahicks]

If you're interested in troubleshooting the wiring, each switch will have a 12v, a ground, and a "signal" wire. On mine, the 12v wire is a little larger than the signal wire to help tell you which is which. The ground is only there to run the pilot light when the 12v is in it's "hot" state (pump on). When the 12v. and signal wires are shorted together, the relay should go to the opposite state it was in prior to the wires being shorted. If it was on, it should turn off, or vice verse. It works exactly as a master battery disconnect relay works? It's just scaled down a little....

That 12v wire at the switch is the same one that's powering the pump. It and the ground wire are what keeps the light in the switch on.

The signal wire, when shorted to the 12v. wire, should produce an audible click at the relay each time contact is made. If not, you might try shorting the 12v. and signal wires right at the relay to see if that produces a "click". If that doesn't work, the problem is likely on the the board.

As mentioned, that's where my problem was located, and as luck would have it, it turned out to be a simple board repair. I'm not that skilled normally, but I tried using a small jumper wire to jump the diode that powers the signal wire (last ditch effort on my part) that allowed it to work - telling me the diode was bad. After carefully replacing it I was back in business. It's one of the bigger components on the board so it wasn't too bad to troubleshoot/replace.