Community Forums

kidz_driver · 11-14-2019, 06:10 AM

Bob,
A great tool for this job is a vibrating multi-crafter. CndTire has them on sale this week at $40. (Mastercraft 2.2A Multi-Crafter Kit #054-8251-6)

I have used mine to remove subflooring and cut numerous panels in our RV as well as the 1 1/2" black PVC pipe on the kitchen drain line. With a metal blade it can be used to trim off bolts, screws etc.

Certainly one of the most used tools in my toolbox.

You also mentioned your slide roof leaking. On our Diplomat, the PO removed the slide topper and glued a piece of what looks like vinyl flooring onto the roof, overlapping the ends by 3" and the inner and outer edges slightly. This has keep water from leaking through the roof in the 6 years we have owned it. Not sure what the original construction looks like and whether caulking the seams would reduce the water infiltration. As a quick and dirty fix, a piece of Ice and Water Shield which is adhesive on one side and flexible enough to bend on corners might get you through the winter. To install I would have the slide part way in so you can align it with the inner edge of the slide lip.

Good luck

Dave

86 Cavalcade · 11-14-2019, 06:29 AM

Bob, You can take the panel out on the back side of the door of the angled cabinet to the left side of the stove. The panel is held in by these square drive screws that Monaco loved to use. On my 2001 Diplomat you can access this flex hose. Good luck, George

RobRoy · 11-14-2019, 08:53 AM

Ouch!... I feel you pain BTDT !

This was the very first repair I had to make on my coach years back.

I Freaked out! it was the day I was leaving on my way out west for 8 weeks and was loaded and ready to go....and Walla! a floor full of water! I was like WTH?

That said the access to mine was very easy as compared to yours so it appears.

1. Pull the end cap on the wall ( yellow arrow ) it is mounted on hd velcro IIRC ( it pry off pretty easy )

2. The access panel to one end ( green arrow ) is mounted on rollers and will open to allow access and also will roll out the end cap and removed if necessary.

3. Access to the other end of the hose ( red arrow) was from under the sink

pic is for anyone with a similar deal and need be

Happy Trails

BobJones · 11-14-2019, 04:21 PM

OK guys - I'm in the thick of it now. Many thanks for all the help and advice !!
I bought one of those mini-crafter tools and wow! My cuts look like I know what I'm doing. I bought the Ryobi version because I have a bunch of those tools. Cost twice as much but apparently you can put different heads on it and turn it into a jigsaw and even a reciprocating saw.

Anyway, serious and important question.....

I bought 1.5" pool hose as per the recommendations on the site. The question is how to connect it to the connector??

The guys at the store gave me this but I'm not sure it's the way to go? I thought I saw someone gluing it into a coupler but I can't see that either. What is the best way to to?? This is what I have now - I don't know if it will work and I need the answer fast (!!) if possible because I might have enough stuff to do the entire job tonight.

RobRoy · 11-14-2019, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobJones

OK guys - I'm in the thick of it now. Many thanks for all the help and advice !!
I bought one of those mini-crafter tools and wow! My cuts look like I know what I'm doing. I bought the Ryobi version because I have a bunch of those tools. Cost twice as much but apparently you can put different heads on it and turn it into a jigsaw and even a reciprocating saw.

Anyway, serious and important question.....

I bought 1.5" pool hose as per the recommendations on the site. The question is how to connect it to the connector??

Connect your hose to the barbed end using some of this https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8005...545415&psc=1to to seal it and then clamp with hose clamps....it's not going anywhere. ( 24 hr set time )

The guys at the store gave me this but I'm not sure it's the way to go? I thought I saw someone gluing it into a coupler but I can't see that either. What is the best way to to?? This is what I have now - I don't know if it will work and I need the answer fast (!!) if possible because I might have enough stuff to do the entire job tonight.

ps: I did not use the type of hose that you have shown there, I used the same type of hose white thick as was originally installed and it has held up just fine.

However.....If I did the job again I would use the type of hose you have and for various reasons.

That said, I am somewhat familiar with the type hose you have there and have used it to repair my Gravity Fresh Water feed hose that failed.

That hose you have is more flexible IMO and sealed up watertight at both ends with worm gear hose clamps and the sealer I described.

Hope this helps

Happy Trails

BobJones · 11-14-2019, 09:05 PM

I can't get that hose over the barbs, and I just boiled the hose in hot water!

If I could, I would not need hose clamps. Speaking of which, due to the metal lines in the hose, I'm not sure hose clamps would work. I'm not sure what to do but I'm starting to wonder if pool hose was the way to go.

On a more positive note, the hot water pex line started leaking after the wall was open

I'm thinking I will re-crimp both before checking clearance and buttoning it up.

Chase55 · 11-14-2019, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobJones

I can't get that hose over the barbs, and I just boiled the hose in hot water!

If I could, I would not need hose clamps. Speaking of which, due to the metal lines in the hose, I'm not sure hose clamps would work. I'm not sure what to do but I'm starting to wonder if pool hose was the way to go.

On a more positive note, the hot water pex line started leaking after the wall was open

I'm thinking I will re-crimp both before checking clearance and buttoning it up.

That type hose concerns me with the ripples. What will not flow and or get caught in it?

The original spa hose is smooth on the inner wall. I believe the main issue is the trolly system for the original style hose, it can hang and cause the ABC pipe To snap. Having the other subsystems used in the slide be nice and organized and arranged for smoothness is the ticket. Just One tie wrap Hanging out at 1/2 size can lock the whole mess up. Clean neatness with all sub wires and water lines is the way to go. I had to disconnect and re-lace some of it. Also made shure all tie wrap ends pointed downward otherwise they can hang on the accordion door or worse.

Lubricate the trolley while you are in there!

guardrail53 · 11-14-2019, 09:30 PM

"I can't get that hose over the barbs, and I just boiled the hose in hot water!"

Try putting the fitting in the freezer and boiling the hose again, maybe that will be just the amount of room you will need! Good luck! Rail!

Chase55 · 11-14-2019, 10:09 PM

I pulled this mess out on purchase. No were near a long street L as original. PVC or ABC. Not sure it matters If done correctly. ABC is lighter.

All the wiring and water lines were all tangled. Just saying.

Lube the trolley and pay attention to detail. Search the site for previous posts for the correct way.

BobJones · 11-14-2019, 10:56 PM

I'm starting to think using a pool hose was not the brightest idea. There is no way to get it over the barbs without damaging the hose or the wires in it. It's just way too tight.

I'll go up to the RV store tomorrow and ask them how they do them. I like the idea of the flex of the pool hose but without a way to connect it......

RobRoy · 11-15-2019, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobJones

I'm starting to think using a pool hose was not the brightest idea. There is no way to get it over the barbs without damaging the hose or the wires in it. It's just way too tight.

I'll go up to the RV store tomorrow and ask them how they do them. I like the idea of the flex of the pool hose but without a way to connect it......

Hmmm? .. as I said, I used that type of hose on my Gravity Fresh Water Fill and yes the connection nipples were smooth now that you remind me of that.

That said I still like the idea of a more flexible hose like the hose you have pictured.

It seems today that they make almost every kind of plumbing fitting and adaptor ....perhaps something like this.https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Swimming.../dp/B072PVP8MC will do the job.

I don't like the spa hose because of being so rigid ...it really loads the PVC fillings and adaptors as the slide goes in and out and that contraption that carries the plumbing gets a work out while flexing those pipes.

Your there we are here ......I would still lean towards something more flexible....that said my repaired spa hose has held up for 4 years after I have repaired it ( and that statement my friends is the kiss of death)

RobRoy · 11-15-2019, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobJones

I can't get that hose over the barbs, and I just boiled the hose in hot water!

If I could, I would not need hose clamps. Speaking of which, due to the metal lines in the hose, I'm not sure hose clamps would work. I'm not sure what to do but I'm starting to wonder if pool hose was the way to go.

On a more positive note, the hot water pex line started leaking after the wall was open

I'm thinking I will re-crimp both before checking clearance and buttoning it up.

Plan B. as an alternative.

Grind the barbs on the fitting off smooth ..... slide the hose on the fitting to check the fit and that the hose slides all the way to the base of the nut on the fitting.

Make sure the hose fits properly to your fitting...if so?.. thread the fittings in the pipe using the proper sealer ( Teflon tape or liquid teflon ) then run a nice bead of sealer on the smooth part of the barbed end of that fitting slide your hose in place and then clamp with mild pressure.

You are sure that the hose and the fitting you have are the correct ones to be matted together correct?...and not mismatched?

Happy Trails
__________________

RobRoy · 11-15-2019, 11:21 AM

That hose you have is smooth on the inside just like the other hose and the spring steel wrapped around it on the OUTSIDE only helps keep it from kinking while in very tight bend situations .....but yet still is still flexible.

Both types hose if sized the same will flow the same.... there may be different bust pressures..... that said .....used on a drain hose I would not be the least bit concerned.

IMO If your putting things that may jamb up that size and type of hose?... you better rethink what your trying to stuff down your sink drain and what happens to it when it lands in your holding tank after doing so

JMOICBW

BobJones · 11-15-2019, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobRoy

...That said I still like the idea of a more flexible hose like the hose you have pictured....

I don't like the spa hose because of being so rigid ...it really loads the PVC fillings and adaptors as the slide goes in and out and that contraption that carries the plumbing gets a work out while flexing those pipes.

Your there we are here ......I would still lean towards something more flexible....that said my repaired spa hose has held up for 4 years after I have repaired it ( and that statement my friends is the kiss of death)

Agreed. I went out and picked up a new hose, one that can be fitted to the fittings

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobRoy

That hose you have is smooth on the inside just like the other hose and the spring steel wrapped around it on the OUTSIDE only helps keep it from kinking while in very tight bend situations .....but yet still is still flexible.

Both types hose if sized the same will flow the same.... there may be different bust pressures..... that said .....used on a drain hose I would not be the least bit concerned.

IMO If your putting things that may jamb up that size and type of hose?... you better rethink what your trying to stuff down your sink drain and what happens to it when it lands in your holding tank after doing so

JMOICBW

Agreed, but the issue, to me, is less of the pressure of it being a drain hose, as that is negligible, but more how much stress might be placed on it by the slide out going in and out. Ie, if if were, for some reason, trying to be pulled apart I would want it to have more strength.

We're on the same page. The OE hose is really stiff. If the entire hose routing etc were perfect 100% of the time, it would be the hose to use. The pool hose I picked up is much more flexible, perhaps too much. An intermediate hose might be better.

I went up to an irrigation store today and mentioned the whole thing to them. They outfitted me with a more flexible hose then the OE hose complete with fittings that the hose will go over. They also got me some liquid teflon tape for those fittings.

I *think* I'm now at the point where I can actually do the job! However, yesterday, the hot water pex line started leaking at the joint so that will have to be fixed first. I'll also have to figure out how all those hoses & lines should be routed because it's clear there's some damage in there. But here's the good news - this is the hose etc that I got and I'm very happy with the balance between strength and flexibility.