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Old 01-21-2009, 03:04 PM   #1
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Does anyone know if there is a 12 volt wire left in the ceiling above the bed and next to the air vent? I was thinking of installing a 12 volt fan above the bed. I have 120 volt AC plug for a front air, but would like to put a full 12 volt fan in the vent. I thought about fishing a wire over from the closet light, but I thought I would run into the stringers and insulation. Thanks!

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Old 01-21-2009, 05:56 PM   #2
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Squirrel, I'm guessing the wiring is there, we have a 12v magic vent fan in that location in our '07 and I know they pre wire for a second AC there. You could probably remove the vent trim and find the wire.
Good luck

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Old 01-21-2009, 07:45 PM   #3
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Squirrel,

We have a fluorescent light in the bedroom (newer limited models have 2). That's 12V there. Wonder if one side is hot all the time...probably.

You squirrels are always running around in the ceiling....why do you stop a minute when you're up there and check it out. You gotta a little test light don't ya???
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Old 01-22-2009, 02:56 AM   #4
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Would agree with Rockin' that coming from the ceiling light near the vent opening might be the best bet.

The lights on my bed slide come from underneath the bed. After reviewing past and present info on how Excel makes the roof framing I'm not sure you can make it to the closet because of the cross framing.

Have you removed the inner trim ring for the vent yet to see if it might have be prewired with a bundle as an add on or as production wiring? When I changed out the bath power vent, there was a pant load of wires running behind the trim an enought space between the roof framing ceiling panel to get a finger into.

Once you remove the trim, could try an fish a tape through any opening toward the closest ceiling light and see where it goes if at all. Might have to remove the light and go from that direction to the vent as it is a larger target.

Another option might be to come from the overhead cabinet above the window toward the vent if the channeling isn't the same as the light and take a wire from the cabinet light or run one through it.

Of course drilling might be required on all or part to get started.
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Old 01-22-2009, 03:04 AM   #5
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Tom, you are too funny!!! Yes, I have a 12 volt LED light next to it, but I am sure that it is only hot when the switch is on. Also I would think that the wire is not heavy enough to carry the Amps that the fan would require. If Redwing1 has a magic vent fan then they must have pre-wired for it. I will have to do a look and see up there when I get back home from Padre. Thanks for all of your help.

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Old 01-22-2009, 03:12 AM   #6
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Thanks Workshop!! I was posting while you were!! What timing!! When I looked at my post I found you had my answer.

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Old 01-22-2009, 03:23 AM   #7
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I recently went through my unit looking at all the lights, power equipment and fuses. The power vents for the bedroom and living room are on the same circuit as the lights on the 2 bed slide (10 amp). The bath power vent, was the same as the bath closet and three lights in the bedroom (15 amp). I increased the amp size for the power vent in the bath by upgrading to a MaxxFan but believe I'm well below load. How close one gets depends on what one has on at the same time and I'm well below that.
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Old 01-22-2009, 05:42 AM   #8
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I didnt read thru all the post, but here is what I think I can inform you on.

Excel doesnt put a 12vt lead at the vent, but does put the 110 wiring for a 2nd AC there. Some will say to tie into a light around the vent, but then you will have to use the light switch to get voltage to the vent. You can use the 110 wire.

HERE is how. Find your wiring at the Junction box for the 2nd AC. Disconnect ( if it is not already) and take the wiring to the 12vt DB., and mark the wiring as such. Then install your vent and use the wiring that is there. 110 wire doesnt care if it uses 12 or 110 to supply the transfer of voltage. Then you will have direct power to the Power Vent.

One thing with folks using the light switch lights for power is that it is to much of a draw on the wiring and light switch if you have the lights and the fan on at the same time, and you could burn out or up the switch and have a wire melt down.

Hope you understand what I am attempting to demostrate here. Any questions let us know.
Good luck and enjoy your fan.....!!!
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Old 01-22-2009, 06:03 AM   #9
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I hate seeing someone stetting a trap for someone else by using the wrong wire for the wrong voltage. If you take the light out of the shower you will find this is where a lot of the 12v wiring is. I had to do this in my 02 to heat up the 12v outlet in the bedroom tv cabinet….Book2
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Old 01-22-2009, 06:11 AM   #10
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"HERE is how. Find your wiring at the Junction box for the 2nd AC. Disconnect ( if it is not already) and take the wiring to the 12vt DB., and mark the wiring as such. "

No attempt to set someone up, this why stated to mark the wiring.. Mark as 12 lead to fan and you will be OK... Using other wiring that is not designed for the extra load of a fan plus what ever else maybe on it, would be far worse than using the AC Wiring, there overloading the wiring. Upgrading or placing a heavier fuse does not increase the voltage power to that point, only give the wiring more time to heat up. The only way that someone is going to reuse the wire is if they remove the fan, and place in a AC..

Different size/gauge wiring is fun thru-out the unit and you have heavier wiring for certain loads and ligher gauge for others... Without running complete new wiring, which would be extremely difficult in the ceiling, you are taking a chance on the overload... Also, Excel uses connectors with in the ceiling to attach wiring from coming from the DB and this also becomes another weak point on a overload... We have seen that in the past before.

again good luck.
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Old 01-22-2009, 06:13 AM   #11
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Trust me! This guy knows ALOT about high voltage....ain't that right Book??
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Old 01-22-2009, 06:19 AM   #12
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I am not sure how the Excel is wired, but there is no way that 12 vdc and 120 vac should be terminated in the same junction box. The 120 vac should be in a separate box and a separate terminal strip if it is near the vent.

From a safety stand point, you should use a volt ohm meter and make sure what wire you are hooking on to before you use the wire.
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Old 01-22-2009, 07:48 AM   #13
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This is a very interesting post. The obvious solution would be for us to look into running a 12V "dead" wire into the area on future units.

I may think about that. No promises yet though.

As with every problem there is a solution. There is a "Correct" way to do things, and then there are "Practical" ways to do things. The correct way would be to fish a 12-2 wire down to the convertor on an isolated circuit.

I kind of like Tom's way of using the UNUSED A/C wire and PROPERLY MARKING it so there will be no mistake in the future. One might even want to make a small note, place it in a ziploc bag and twist-tie it to the wire down by the converter, explaining what was done so that when you trade FOR YOU NEW EXCEL in a year or so, everyone is on the same page.

Obviously, you will pull the wire out of the outlet in the ceiling.

Again, this is not exactly the correct way to do this project but it's certainly one that I would consider if I were faced with the challenge....

Ok, I've got one leg in my flame suit... give me a moment to get my flack jacket on before you start in.. LOL

Bryan
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Old 01-22-2009, 07:53 AM   #14
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To add a correction and clarity to my prior post:

...wrongway is correct, by connecting to the ceiling light in the bedroom if it is switched, like mine, one would have to operate the light to operate the fan. I didn't think of that in my first reply and was thinkin there would be other wires available also. Not a good choice. I would look for another source of power in that area that's easy to reach. Still like the idea of running through the cabinet - ceiling - to the vent option if there are no 12v source of power behind the trim ring.

Still need to know the power circuit and fuse size that operates it. On mine everything in the bedroom, (except slide lites), plus the bath fan and bath closet lite was on the same 15A circuit. As one knows__a circuit is fused/wire sized to handle its load at the worst demand. Since we never have everything on at once, I'm comfortable with my loads, end result of anything we do should be the same.

...When I mentioned my circuits, I would assume they are branched in a simular manner as a stick built rather than in series. Regardless, I didn't want to imply by saying I increased the fuse size in order to install the MaxxFan in the bath. Only that I increased the load from 1.8 amps to 4.4 amps. That's on HI setting and 1.4 on LO. I feel within the limits of that branch circuit and the 15amp fuse on the panel. HI on the MaxxFan will almost unroll the toilet paper from the holder so we don't use anything above #2 which should be about the same as the original but on high still safe.
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Book2 wrote:
I hate seeing someone stetting a trap for someone else by using the wrong wire for the wrong voltage. If you take the light out of the shower you will find this is where a lot of the 12v wiring is. I had to do this in my 02 to heat up the 12v outlet in the bedroom tv cabinet….Book2

I agree with wrongway that wire knows no voltage, that said I would not use #6 wire to run a circuit for a 2 amp light. I feel what he was saying was to check the circuit for power, remove it, find where that branch circuit terminates in the basement, disconnect and cap any loose ends, provide 12v to the wire and hook up the fan. Still have to decide which 12v circuit to use or connect to one of the 12v auto-reset breakers and fuse the line. Sure its over simpilified but if the wires are marked correctly, a white wire can be used as a hot lead. Deal with wire and voltage long enought, I'm sure one can see everything. Its labeling and idenitifing that makes the difference. Black wire with green or white collars to indicte use, still good to use one would assume. Wrong colored wire__corrctly labeled.

Book2, when I was tracking down my 12v, the 12vdc TV plug in the bedroom was wired to the ANT PWR switch, a 7.5 amp circuit. Don't know if yours is that way.

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As one knows, one has to at times be simple in the responce one sometimes give to keep from being to long and detailed. I know because it's hard for me to post most anything in 25 words or less. One has to assume that if the information one receives is not clear or understood than other questions would be asked. One would also assume that one wouldn't do something they weren't comfortable with or had some knowledge of. Know it happens.

It's good to at times have checks and balances to keep us safe.

sparkie

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