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Old 08-24-2010, 09:26 AM   #29
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Rockin,

I don't think I've yet seen the RV trailer that can cause me to exceed BigBit's capacities. Right now we're just over 50% on GCVW. There's plenty of room to grow. It's easier for me to exceed legal length. It's time for you to quit breakin the law and get with the HDT program.
Now-Now Timo,

You knows I be talkin' LGT catagory!!! Give a guy a break!!! rockybaby!
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:55 AM   #30
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Rockin',
I know we've gotten off the subject, but do the 2011's have that idiotic DPF?
Just checked mpg since last fillup (dic display) and it says 10.1mpg. This is ridiculous. I just had a tube that goes to the turbo replaced (oil leak) and they said it was a new design. Don't know if that will help or not.
Ed
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Old 08-25-2010, 11:27 AM   #31
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Ed.....yes the '11 uses DPF ..........I do 9.9 MPG average pulling on my old '05 model......about 15/16 on the road without load going 60 MPH......what's the problem with that? Did you buy it to pull or baby sit fuel economy? What kinda mileage did you expect? Don't know about the tube to the turbo as I've been retired to keep up on the latest issues. rockin'
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Old 08-25-2010, 12:01 PM   #32
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Rockin',
I know we've gotten off the subject, but do the 2011's have that idiotic DPF?
Just checked mpg since last fillup (dic display) and it says 10.1mpg. This is ridiculous. I just had a tube that goes to the turbo replaced (oil leak) and they said it was a new design. Don't know if that will help or not.
Ed
Ed, were you asking about the need for urea urea refills? Reason I ask is that's new for the 2011s over the 2008-2010s. David
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Old 08-25-2010, 03:11 PM   #33
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I would not be looking forward to refilling the urea tank every few K miles. With our 2008 Duramax & Allison 1000, we get 10.3 - 11.5 MPG pulling our 15K 5er @ 60 - 62 MPH hilly to less hilly (lowest spd we can get into OD) and about 14-15 MPG bobtail (often with more city driving and higher Interstate speeds).

Dave
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:09 PM   #34
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Guess I don't understand your comment highlighted in red. All the literature I've read, explain it clearly. Full box frame, 14" disc brakes, variable control turbo exhaust brake, etc. etc. So I don't understand your statement. Please help me understand. Here are just a few bits of info. that GM is making.


The fully boxed frame and all-new front and rear suspensions are the biggest reasons for the huge increases in Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings:
  • Massive components include three-inch-wide rear leaf springs and precision-forged upper control arms
  • The new independent front suspension allows each front wheel to react independently to rough terrain, helping keep each wheel in a vertical position and more firmly planted on the road
  • To better manage larger capacities, the steering knuckle is taller and 66% heavier than before
  • The rear suspension includes 20% wider leaf springs with an asymmetric design that reduces wheel hop on acceleration and better handles increased payloads
  • Our all-new chassis features a high-strength, fully boxed steel frame that's five times torsionally stiffer than before and lets Silverado 3500HD shoulder up to 6,635 lbs. of payload(5,9) - more than Ford F-350 or Ram 3500.
    The suspension got a complete redesign with bigger, stronger components engineered to handle increased loads and improve ride quality over the previous generation.



    For heavy-duty trucks, torque is king. And the legendary, available Duramax 6.6L Turbo-Diesel V8 engine wears the crown:
    • More maximum hp and torque than any competitor - 397 horses and 765 lb.-ft. of torque - the most powerful heavy-duty ever made
    • 21,700 lbs. of maximum towing(4,6) - more than Ford or Ram
    • More than 11% improvement in highway fuel economy(7) over the previous generation

Tom, this sounds great but did GM do away with placing the door latch under that big arm rest? That has been a turn off to me. I just rented a 10 Ford for work because of the placing of that latch. Some times it is kind of hard to get my hand under there to open the door.
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Old 08-25-2010, 11:38 PM   #35
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Tom, this sounds great but did GM do away with placing the door latch under that big arm rest? That has been a turn off to me. I just rented a 10 Ford for work because of the placing of that latch. Some times it is kind of hard to get my hand under there to open the door.
I guess I never paid any attention to it. I've been opening the door for 5.5 years and it's never been a problem to me.......must be a personal preference. rockin'
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:50 AM   #36
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Ed.....yes the '11 uses DPF ..........I do 9.9 MPG average pulling on my old '05 model......about 15/16 on the road without load going 60 MPH......what's the problem with that? Did you buy it to pull or baby sit fuel economy? What kinda mileage did you expect? Don't know about the tube to the turbo as I've been retired to keep up on the latest issues. rockin'
That is the mileage I get driving around town. You're too smart to ask a question like that.
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:02 AM   #37
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That is the mileage I get driving around town. You're too smart to ask a question like that.
Ed
I went back and reread my comments and questions. Sounds a little smart-ass and kinda condescending. For that I apologize. Those that know me, know that explaining things in writing is not my strong suit. "Knowing all", doesn't mean I write or express it well!!! Sorry Ed. I'll do better next time. Promise. rockin'

Anyone else out there need "slam-banged" around today? I'm here to help you!
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:11 AM   #38
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I am fond of saying many RVers have a few screws loose.. Normally I"m speaking of the screws that hold the wires in the electrical distribution box but in this case

The air conditioner mounting bolts. (4 large bolts that go from the lower unit to the upper unit)

These can work loose if not re-tightened from time to time and when that happens water, epically condensate from the very same air conditioner can seep down past the gasket.

Then it can get in the roof.. Now one would think that the leak would show up right there (Drip down from the A/C) but this one spent 7 years working as a professional roofer and knows for a fact water can be sneaky, following the underside of the roof quite some distance before deciding to drip down and announce itself.

LIkewise vents and anything else going through the roof.
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:50 AM   #39
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Now one would think that the leak would show up right there (Drip down from the A/C) but this one spent 7 years working as a professional roofer and knows for a fact water can be sneaky, following the underside of the roof quite some distance before deciding to drip down and announce itself.

LIkewise vents and anything else going through the roof.
Dropped the trailer at Fretz RV (Souderton, PA) yesterday to have the generator serviced and someone, besides me, look at the seals, etc to ensure everything was OK. They found one of the vent seals needed to be replaced. I guess it doesn't take long for those seals to deteriorate and start that confounded leak no one can seem to find! David
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Old 08-26-2010, 06:20 PM   #40
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Dropped the trailer at Fretz RV (Souderton, PA) yesterday to have the generator serviced and someone, besides me, look at the seals, etc to ensure everything was OK. They found one of the vent seals needed to be replaced. I guess it doesn't take long for those seals to deteriorate and start that confounded leak no one can seem to find! David
Davydee, do have the vent covers installed? Just curious.
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Old 08-26-2010, 07:03 PM   #41
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Davydee, do have the vent covers installed? Just curious.
Just over the fan-tastic vent (rear) and the kitchen (middle). Didn't have one over the bedroom vent as I trying to keep a somewhat low profile for the trailer. I didn't ask and the work ticket doesn't mention which vent. Would have been a logical question to ask. Another rookie mistake - Sorry!

Side note: the trailer did go through a hail storm while being repaired at Smith Center. Only that front vent (uncovered) was damaged. The two Maxx Air vent covers survived intact.
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