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Dr4Film · 05-30-2012, 08:38 PM

If it were me, I would install the Halon Tank such that the head is as close to and possibly just above where the 120 volt heaters are located. That's where over 98% of all Norcold fires had stated.

I know of only one Norcold fire that started in the tubes near the freezer when the tube ruptured and the unit was running on LPG. Of course the LPG flame was the ignition source for the hydrogen gas that was emitted from the tubes and the coach was a total loss. Oh, by the way, he had the Halon SS-30 mounted exactly like yours, horizontal at the bottom of the compartment and it never went off.

My permanent fix was to remove the POS Norcold and install a Samsung RF197 residential unit. I have now moved the Halon SS-30 over to the battery compartment.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

rockintom · 05-30-2012, 09:10 PM

Actually Chief.......it's this last video that got me. It was the "straw that broke the camel's back" for me. Man, that wind really fueled the fire on this to me. I guess it makes it more personal since we've been in that parking lot. From the way it looks, the truck musta been seperated from the 5th wheel after the fire.....can you imagine what the trailer (or car) to the left smells like now, especially if a window was open!!!

rockin'

docj · 05-30-2012, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

My Business - Home

I have seen this man put on a presentation.. I respect him. From what I know (Which compared to him is next to nothing) it appears he knows what he is talking about.

He also supplies the hardware discussed above and more.

I've seen the man's presentation and have replaced all my extinguishers with the aqueous foam type he sells. I have a residential fridge so I don't need a refrigerator system.

I've also installed an automatic extinguisher system in the engine bay; I hope I never need to know how well it will work.

gdbontly · 05-31-2012, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockintom

I never gave alot of thought to what you discussed above. I made a call to Jim at Fire Fighter 1. He nicely explained that the dip tube in THIS FE is flexible and will pickup and function properly at all angles except when the head is pointed straight down. He said that most FE have a stationary dip tube and designed to function only with the head in the near upright position.

Been dragging my feet on this as well; just ordered my SS-30 with 90 deg head. To clarify the mounting issue, Jim told me it didn't matter which direction the "head" was pointing down, but the bottle cannot point down. With the 90 angle, I can mount the bottle horizontally and have the head point either up or down. I'd like to install the FE horizontally towards the top of the refridge compartment with the head pointing down. I haven't checked yet to see if there's enough space at the top. If not, I'll just mount it at the bottom (horizontally with the head pointing up).

rockintom · 05-31-2012, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdbontly

Been dragging my feet on this as well; just ordered my SS-30 with 90 deg head. To clarify the mounting issue, Jim told me it didn't matter which direction the "head" was pointing down, but the bottle cannot point down. With the 90 angle, I can mount the bottle horizontally and have the head point either up or down. I'd like to install the FE horizontally towards the top of the refridge compartment with the head pointing down. I haven't checked yet to see if there's enough space at the top. If not, I'll just mount it at the bottom (horizontally with the head pointing up).

Glenn,

Thanks for the clarification on the head positioning. You can understand where I was coming from. On mine, the FE has a straight head. If the head is pointed down, the body is also pointed down (not functional). On a unit with a 90* head, the body could be horizonal and the head could be up or down and be OK (functional). Makes sense to me. Bottom line is that the body can be mounted veritcal or horizonal and be good, due to the flexible dip tube. Again.....thanks for pointing that out. rockin'

IMDSailor · 05-31-2012, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chief02

More video of the previous post. Notice how the fire is coming from the roof at first, right in the area where a refer vent may be? hmmmmm

Chief02, would that vent area not be the best place to install an extinguisher, just for that very reason? My thinking is that the Halon would travel down the vent to the bottom, extinguishing as it went. My reasoning is that, that is where it would get hottest first. If the extinguisher was mounted at the bottom of the compartment, potentially below the source of ignition, the extinguisher may not release at all.

Stewart

chief02 · 05-31-2012, 12:04 PM

A couple of things at work here. First is the vapor density of the agent, is it heavier or lighter then air (will it rise or sink) second, a fire will cause upward convection the may carry some of the agent away from the burning materials. So, maybe mounting midway on the cooling unit is best if there is room. I think I will order mine with and extention hose. But I want to get more info about the agent being used. Is it true halon wich has stringent limited use these days. Or is a one of the new halon replacemnt. I'm also looking at other systems. Dry ABC powder is much cheaper but comes with a mess afterwards. But a mess like that I can deal with. lol

IMDSailor · 05-31-2012, 12:08 PM

I just posted this link in another related thread.
Fireboy-Xintex pre-engineered total flooding fire extinguishing systems
I'm not sure if you can remote the head on this unit. That would be the answer tho.

steelheadbluesman · 05-31-2012, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chief02

A couple of things at work here. First is the vapor density of the agent, is it heavier or lighter then air (will it rise or sink) second, a fire will cause upward convection the may carry some of the agent away from the burning materials. So, maybe mounting midway on the cooling unit is best if there is room. I think I will order mine with and extention hose. But I want to get more info about the agent being used. Is it true halon wich has stringent limited use these days. Or is a one of the new halon replacemnt. I'm also looking at other systems. Dry ABC powder is much cheaper but comes with a mess afterwards. But a mess like that I can deal with. lol

I just ordered the FF1-SS30. Mfgr claims it is actual Halon, which is no longer available. I would have chosen dry powder, but I couldn't find any.

chief02 · 05-31-2012, 01:18 PM

About | OnGard dryer vent fire suppression system

this one is ABC dry powder $109 no shipping charge

rockintom · 05-31-2012, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chief02

A couple of things at work here. First is the vapor density of the agent, is it heavier or lighter then air (will it rise or sink) second, a fire will cause upward convection the may carry some of the agent away from the burning materials. So, maybe mounting midway on the cooling unit is best if there is room. I think I will order mine with and extention hose. But I want to get more info about the agent being used. Is it true halon wich has stringent limited use these days. Or is a one of the new halon replacemnt. I'm also looking at other systems. Dry ABC powder is much cheaper but comes with a mess afterwards. But a mess like that I can deal with. lol

Chief....you pose a great question and I can shed some light on the subject. A while back (winter before last) while in Hemet, I took the CERT training class and in our class (and booklet) while we were talking FEs, they talked about Halon, and that is not used any more as it is very dangerous to use as it takes the oxygen out of the air. So bottom line was it was a GREAT for extinguishing the fire, but a no-no on the fireman. It has been unlawful to make Halon for some time, but Fire Fighter 1 purchased all there was already made and could get a hold of. When their Halon is gone, then they'll start using the alternative compounds. But they still have some Halon left. Jim wrote me a very long and detailed email explaining all this. His claim is that Halon is a superior material AND SAFE in this application as the rear of the refer (or genbox area) as it is in a confined/closed area. Most of the Halon doesn't escape to an open air area especially since it is a smaller extinguisher (1 lb.) He claims it snubs out the fire very quickly by sucking the 02 out of that small area, so effective and safe to use according to them. It makes sense to me......Hope that helps. rockin'

RickS · 05-31-2012, 11:30 PM

Some interesting stuff here.

"ANSUL® SAPPHIRE® fixed nozzle, fire suppression systems use 3M™ Novec™ 1230 fire protection fluid for total flooding applications. The agent has 0.0 ozone depletion potential, an atmospheric lifetime of just five days, and a global warming potential of 1.0."

ANSUL Sapphire "Clean Agent" System - YouTube

rockintom · 06-01-2012, 07:55 AM

Great infomation Rick. Thanks for sharing!

Dr4Film · 06-01-2012, 09:14 AM

I really don't think the dry chemical FE's are the thing to use unless you want to throw away everything it touches that is electrical.

Regarding Halon for the Norcold cavity, it is the BEST choice and small bottles too.

I use strictly either AFFF foam or Halon tanks. Those dry chemical tanks are now sitting in my trailer (rolling garage) in case I have a BBQ fire or a campfire that goes out of control.

My Norcold (aka NotSoCold) has been gone for weeks now but if it were me, I would install two units, one low specifically just above the 120 VAC heaters. This is exactly where the POS Norcold Recall sensor device has been installed. The second tank would go further up towards the top of the vent stack.

Now, regardless of where the fire originates one or both Halon tanks will surely extinguish the fire BEFORE much damage is allowed to occur.

Dr4Film ----- Richard