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Old 06-11-2012, 11:51 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdbontly View Post
Tom, if the back of the fridge catches fire, the heat will rise. I read somewhere (can't remember exactly) that a temperature-trigered FE mounted below a heat source never discharged (or discharged too late). In talking to Jim at Fire Fight, he said higher up would be more effective. I hope I understood him correctly. It certainly won't be any trouble to move it to the bottom, but there's obviously no way to mount it anywhere else. The heat shield up top needed to be replaced anyway, it didn't fit properly, so no wasted effort there.
I called Jim this AM for clarification and he's claims that the FE mounted high in the lower compartment or FE mounted in the upper compartment are both good.

You just don't want to have it mounted low in the lower compartment....make sense to me. rockin'
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Old 06-11-2012, 12:21 PM   #44
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I got my Fire Fight SS-30 yesterday, and am planning my install. From all the info you guys have posted (thank you all!), I'm mounting it as high as I can in the lower part, hopefully a little above the outside vent, but it's pretty crowded. Thanks again -- I feel very good about my decision because of all the discussion.

I do have one question -- is there a problem hanging it from the fridge tubing that gets really hot? That would make it easy, but maybe not the best due to overheating the FE? Any thoughts?
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:02 PM   #45
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I got my Fire Fight SS-30 yesterday, and am planning my install. From all the info you guys have posted (thank you all!), I'm mounting it as high as I can in the lower part, hopefully a little above the outside vent, but it's pretty crowded. Thanks again -- I feel very good about my decision because of all the discussion.

I do have one question -- is there a problem hanging it from the fridge tubing that gets really hot? That would make it easy, but maybe not the best due to overheating the FE? Any thoughts?
Hi steel,

Before I tie wrapped my FE to the heating tube, I felt them and they never got hot enough for me to be concerned. Jim from Fire Fighter told me he's hung them that way on many with no issues. The tubes seem to be robust enough that I'm not concerned of fatiguing the tubes with vibration, etc. I will be watching closely this area when we get to traveling again in Oct. rockin'
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:59 PM   #46
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Hi steel,

Before I tie wrapped my FE to the heating tube, I felt them and they never got hot enough for me to be concerned. Jim from Fire Fighter told me he's hung them that way on many with no issues. The tubes seem to be robust enough that I'm not concerned of fatiguing the tubes with vibration, etc. I will be watching closely this area when we get to traveling again in Oct. rockin'
Good info, Thanks Rockin'.
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:26 PM   #47
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Extinguisher Great But.....

The fire extinguisher necessity for possible refrigerator fires is a great idea; but how good is it when the fire is in the same housing where you've mounted the extinguisher and it's too hot to grab it? Suggestion would be to mount it in either the propane housing or inside the basement on the same side where the refrigerator vent/motor is located.
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:56 PM   #48
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Yo-Yo didy......I don't think you are understanding the type of FE we are talking about. We are talking about a Halon FE that has a heat sensitive piece in it and mounted in the refer outside compartment. In this case, the extinguisher goes off at a head temp of 165*F. In other words it goes off all by itself (when a fire exist) without your help. That way if your not around or asleep, you're safe. It is suppose to snub out the fire quickly before it does more damage. Refer fires are way too common in my opinion to not do this, especially if you call your coach HOME. rockin'
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:52 PM   #49
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most rv fires state in the frig area. That is why I do not travel with my propane or my frig on. I fought fires for 30 years and learned from others mistakes and misfortunes. yet there are many who have said I don't know what I'm talking about since it has never happened to them. AND I say to them it hasn't happened to them YET.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:21 AM   #50
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Quote:
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The fire extinguisher necessity for possible refrigerator fires is a great idea; but how good is it when the fire is in the same housing where you've mounted the extinguisher and it's too hot to grab it? Suggestion would be to mount it in either the propane housing or inside the basement on the same side where the refrigerator vent/motor is located.
My exact thoughts. Too hot to handle.

But the main question I have is:

Where is your screwdriver to get the panel off?

By the way, I carry five fire extinguishers spread around the coach.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:04 AM   #51
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Received my ss-30 the other day and installed it similar to rockin's but had to use a 2x2 block to act as a stand off. Had a steel bar as support and ran a machine bolt and locktite nut, then used two cable ties to secure the upper end. Shake down cruise sked for the June 28th. Will up date when I return to Sunriver July 6th.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:24 AM   #52
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Received my ss-30 the other day and installed it similar to rockin's but had to use a 2x2 block to act as a stand off. Had a steel bar as support and ran a machine bolt and locktite nut, then used two cable ties to secure the upper end. Shake down cruise sked for the June 28th. Will up date when I return to Sunriver July 6th.
Pix would be nice stumpf! Thanks. Also did you get a straight head ss-30 or 90* head? rockin'
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:30 AM   #53
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I would like a picture also, if you can manage. I'm having a tough time mounting the SS-30 and still have room for my 12v fan in the bottom area.... Looks like I'll have to rewire my fan, then stand the FE up on the left side.
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:41 AM   #54
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Danke tom.... Now ich comprendo.
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:29 PM   #55
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Well, I finally got my SS-30 and installed it in a crazy kind of way. Wanted to have it tilted up, and wanted the fusible link as far from the hot fridge tubing and as close to the intake air supply (the outside compartment panel) as possible, and also keep it sort of upright.

I used existing holes in the outside panel frame by threading #12 copper house wire through the holes and around the body and neck of the FE. By crimping and twisting the copper wires, one wire up and the other toward the outside, I was able to suspend the FE in the position I wanted, tilted up at just the right height, and reasonably tight.... At least I think so. I know it ain't 'purdy', but if you guys look at the pics, let me know how you think it will work. Any constructive criticism will be welcomed!

I appreciate all the comments that came before, they really helped me settle into this whole FE/norcold fridge fire thing, so thanks guys.
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