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Old 11-24-2009, 06:42 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Still Working "NOT" View Post
Call Jack or Ralph in the morning. They'll ship you one since you are still under warranty. Simple change out since Rockin can do it.
Yep - thought about it, but was too lazy to call. I'll do that. Thanks!! David
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Old 11-25-2009, 05:20 AM   #16
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I got my first whack on the head from the bar on the opposite side of the T-handle as one side of the screws broke off securing the bracket holding the hydraulic strut. The screws appear to be aluminum and may have been over-torqued at either the factory or by a technician at the dealer to make sure they were tight. I am hesitant to relocate the bracket or even to drill out the broken screws myself. Anyone have a readily accepted remedy for this condition ... it sounds like it would be a common problem to happen. The screws did not appear to be stressed before they broke off, but did fail rather suddenly. Of course it has to be the side where the utility center is located.

Dave
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Old 12-10-2009, 07:52 AM   #17
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Update - New latch on its way here from Smith Center.
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Old 12-18-2009, 05:29 AM   #18
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T-handle arrived, but something tells me it's a little more complicated than removing a couple of screws.
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Old 12-18-2009, 05:48 AM   #19
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Dave,
Remove the inside latch bar, secured by an allen screw, then remove the two screws securing the handle assembly. Should come right out -- replace the new handle in the same orientation as the old handle, replace the latch bar and adjust as necessary for a tight seal.
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Old 12-18-2009, 11:10 AM   #20
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There are many kinds of locks.. however if the lock cylinder is not turning. there is but two solutions

!: Remove the lock mechanism to a locksmith and request repair

2: Replacement

Fact: Keys wear out.. Now a proper "NEW" key in my car can only be removed in the "LOCKED" position

THe key in my pocket can be removed in any position

There is enough slop in the pins that both keys work, but... The Code-cut key works better (it's the master for the others)
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Old 12-18-2009, 07:28 PM   #21
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I hafta agree with Chief! No brainer. rockin'
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Old 12-19-2009, 08:15 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KU9L View Post
I got my first whack on the head from the bar on the opposite side of the T-handle as one side of the screws broke off securing the bracket holding the hydraulic strut. The screws appear to be aluminum and may have been over-torqued at either the factory or by a technician at the dealer to make sure they were tight. I am hesitant to relocate the bracket or even to drill out the broken screws myself. Anyone have a readily accepted remedy for this condition ... it sounds like it would be a common problem to happen. The screws did not appear to be stressed before they broke off, but did fail rather suddenly. Of course it has to be the side where the utility center is located.

Dave
Screws from two of my door strut brackets have fallen out in the past two years, one just a few weeks ago. I replaced each one with a larger sheet metal screw. OK since. I keep an eye on all of them, cause that door hurts!
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Old 12-20-2009, 07:41 AM   #23
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Dave,
Remove the inside latch bar, secured by an allen screw, then remove the two screws securing the handle assembly. Should come right out -- replace the new handle in the same orientation as the old handle, replace the latch bar and adjust as necessary for a tight seal.
Thanks Chief!! I'll get out there as soon as we dig out of the snow!
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Old 01-15-2010, 07:29 PM   #24
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T-handle arrived, but something tells me it's a little more complicated than removing a couple of screws.
Nope - piece of cake. Handle comes with it's own seal, and the screws use a philips head screw driver. Hardiest part was ensuring that I put the handle on so that all the keys go in the same way. And I didn't drop anything in the mud!
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