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06-11-2009, 08:51 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,088
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Now that summer is here, it's hot and it rains a lot....this might be a good time to check the caulk and sealant that protects the things we love so much.
Davydee is on the right track by being proactive in checking screws/fasteners on his unit. That and checking the caulk and sealant will go a long way in keeping his Excel in great shape and having to face less issues with moisture problems that AFFECTS all RV's and not just Excels. I know because I had to deal with these issues on every RV or boat I've owned. The moisture problems that most will have are never noticed until a lot of damage or other issues appear.
I don't claim to be an expert on these things and learn as I go. What I don't know, like others, will try to learn and will continue to do what I do until I learn something new that will work better for me.
Below is a sample of what I've learned by performing maintenance and repairs on my unit that deal with trim and caulk. Yours might be different but would guess possibly the same. Mine is a 2001 unit and the newer units might not have the same issues or at least not yet.
If there is enough interest in the subject....I will do a larger/longer post of this type on the areas that I've had issues with or areas that I see, on my unit, that had more issues than other sections.
I don't want this to be an Excel thing....as ALL RV's have these or similar issues....you can read them in other sections on this Forum. This is just what I own.
workhorse,
__________________
2000 Alpenlite - 29 ft Valhalla - 2011 F350 DRW CC
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06-11-2009, 09:23 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 466
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While washing her up for a trip this June I noticed that the caulk on the front cap at the roof line is starting to crack. Still reasonably pliable, I filled the cracks in and will probably redo all of it this Fall.
That said this thread is very timely for me!
__________________
2001 HO Cummins powered Dodge 2500
2002 Springdale 286RLDS
Wife-Angela Daughter-Ashley Son-Joshua
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06-12-2009, 08:54 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 507
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 I'd like the long version!! Davydee
__________________
David & Donna Driver SKP# 105170 | Fulltimer | 2009 F450 Lariat Plus w/Nav | 2011 MS 36RSSB3
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06-12-2009, 11:01 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 122
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Back in December we had to have the bedroom slideout rebuilt because the floor was rotten in our 2007 model. Since then I've been paranoid about pressing on the wood up under the other slideouts and this morning I feel what seems to be soft pockets just under the edge in a couple of areas. Any advice on how to head this off before it gets significantly worse ? I don't feel it is a caulk issue as all beads of caulk are tight but when it rains and water runs down the sides of the slideouts it will roll under the botton edge an inch or so before dripping off on ground. I suspect it absorbs through the black material and starts decay process. I had also backed out some of the screws in the trim pieces a while ago and can see some rust at beginning of screw head so reset all trim screws, on slideouts with silicone in the screw holes.
Is there anything that could be "injected" into these soft spots (like a marine epoxy) that would fill in and solidify these areas ?
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06-13-2009, 08:15 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Out there........
Posts: 410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindaxtwo
Back in December we had to have the bedroom slideout rebuilt because the floor was rotten in our 2007 model.
.....
Is there anything that could be "injected" into these soft spots (like a marine epoxy) that would fill in and solidify these areas ?
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Linda,
Too many years ago (30  ) I used "Boatlife GIT-Rot" to repair a couple of soft spots in the deck of a wooden boat. The wood was Marine Plywood and it was covered with a vinyl cover - not entirely unlike your situation. Try this website for some information -
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...rot&match_type=
A Google search may net better results. Hope this helps. Anyway it worked great for me back then.
__________________
Jim & Bona
FT Since '08
'04 Volvo 630, '08 Excel 35FLR
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06-14-2009, 08:21 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 122
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Hey Jim,
Thanks for the info...I certainly will check that out. Sure wish that at least the slideouts were built with Advantech that has a 50 yr warranty against moisture issues. I used this product on my sticks and bricks house that I built. Wouldn't have a rot issue with it. I might expect these types of issues on a 10 yr+ rig that hasn't been maintained but not on one 2.5 yrs old that is well maintained.
Thanks again !!
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06-14-2009, 08:58 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Fulltime TX Escapee
Posts: 4,888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindaxtwo
Back in December we had to have the bedroom slideout rebuilt because the floor was rotten in our 2007 model. Since then I've been paranoid about pressing on the wood up under the other slideouts and this morning I feel what seems to be soft pockets just under the edge in a couple of areas. Any advice on how to head this off before it gets significantly worse ? I don't feel it is a caulk issue as all beads of caulk are tight but when it rains and water runs down the sides of the slideouts it will roll under the botton edge an inch or so before dripping off on ground. I suspect it absorbs through the black material and starts decay process. I had also backed out some of the screws in the trim pieces a while ago and can see some rust at beginning of screw head so reset all trim screws, on slideouts with silicone in the screw holes.
Is there anything that could be "injected" into these soft spots (like a marine epoxy) that would fill in and solidify these areas ?
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Hi Linda,
You were not specific if you were talking about the bedroom slide again or another slide. They (PI) should have install the revised flat style molding and used butyl mud under it verses the old style molding with the vinyl insert which uses the foam tape.
Did they do the molding upgrade on the other slide moldings while you were there? rockin'
__________________
2012 Excel L33ft. GKE Love Fulltiming. Tugger, the wonder truck. '05 Chevy D/A 3500 CC DRW Fold-A-Cover Raycor 660 Auxilarly Fuel Filter
Check out our blog at: http://claphamstravels.blogspot.com
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06-14-2009, 09:29 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,088
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Linda, just trying to get caught up on whats going on....I haven't used that product on areas that I've had rot issues on, but looks like an interesting product. I have used a MinWax Wood Hardener on the compartment door rebuild and other projects I've done. The problem that I see in what you would want to do, by injecting it into the rot area, would seem somewhat difficult because of the covering and working overhead rather than something below you. I think its called gravity?  The Minwax is very liquid and should be easy to use in a needle type applicator used in wood working, but would run out and not soak the area as needed.
I've checked the web and haven't found anything that could be useable without opening the area to have access to the wood? Is the soft areas that you feel just at the edge or does it go back further?
I was lucky when I rebuilt the sofa slide that the floor wasn't damaged even though the bottom foot of the wall was gone. Mine I believe was the result of a bad seal around the window or from the bottom trim. As I'm the 3rd owner...will never know as it was sealed at the time and the area was dry when the repair started.
What would be needed at the bottom of the slide, area where the trim and fabric meet, is a 'drip edge' that would disrupt the flow of water when it hits that area. Instead of flowing onto the fabric, it would slow it down and cause it to drip off. Simular to what is used on a Stick's roof. My slides are in and if the rain stops long enough to go outside, I'll look at the bottom of my slides. Might also want to spray that area of the fabric with a water repellant, from sporting good, if you think moisture is entering from that area being wet. Just a thought.
__________________
2000 Alpenlite - 29 ft Valhalla - 2011 F350 DRW CC
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06-15-2009, 12:26 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 122
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Workshop,
Since you've done some extensive tearing apart of areas on your Excel, can you tell me if the fabric on underside of slideout wraps up around the end and is covered by the end trim ? Wondering if I can take the end trim off, which might let me get a brush or spray bottle between fabric and wood ? Found a site http://www.rotdoctor.com where people have used their products for all types of RV wood repairs. I emailed the rot doctor and he said holes should be drilled in on an angle for best penetration(using their syringe method through the faric) but if I could get access to the wood I would prefer to brush on the epoxy sealer or use spray bottle.
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06-15-2009, 02:30 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,088
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Linda here are two photos.
This was sent to me by 75v when I was starting the repair of the slide's wall. It shows the fabric wraped around all edges of the floor. When I did my repair, the fabric was wrapped over the edge and covered the area where the base of the wall sit. Which provided plenty of coverage. Like I said...when I did the repair, my floor was un-affected by the moisture in the wall even tho the screws were completely rusted through and allowed the wall to 'float' on the right side of the floor.
This photo shows the wall/floor connection with the trim removed. When the trim is installed....the trim doesn't cover the fabric, about half is visible on my unit.
The screws seen on the bottom of the wall is what attaches the wall to the floor. I had five screws and they are fastened to the second/upper level of the floor.
To do what you are asking.... you would have to remove the trim, using a razor knife, cut the fabric as high as you can...all along the wall or as much as you felt you needed. As tight as the fabric should still be, feel you might need to also cut the fabric on the outside wall where it meets the skirt. Cutting as close to the wall as possible.
This should allow an 'L' shaped cut and the fabric should drop down. When installing, I would consider using a spray adhesive on the floor of the slide and roll the fabric back into position carefully, as once the two meet you might not be able to take apart. I would consider using staples at the skirt and up under the trim and then caulk the staples and cut joint. Some have used Gorilla Tape on the joints. I mentioned using an adhesive because this area will have the pressure of the slides roller applied as the slide travels and needs to be stable. Sounds like a lots.
Have you been able to determine how large/small of an area you are talking about? and in how many places? Are you sure it's coming through the fabric?
Chris
__________________
2000 Alpenlite - 29 ft Valhalla - 2011 F350 DRW CC
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06-15-2009, 02:44 PM
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#11
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Community Moderator
Nor'easters Club Newmar Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Salisbury,Ma. 01952
Posts: 13,617
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As our coach's and trailers get older you may notice white streaks coming down side walls on outside. They are not from roof its from your sealants drying out and chalking the sidewalls.
I had a leak on floor inside corner passenger side and the water came down from top of side window thru A frame of windshield and stained the rug.
Water can be a pain to find entrance location there are dealers that can locate under pressure your leak when its a difficult one to find.
This THREADKountry Star Slideout Leak explains what I did to remove the leak and sealant used, its going to be a summer project to do all the seams but those white streaks do show up more now, so its time to get busy.
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06-15-2009, 08:13 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Where ever GPS takes us
Posts: 729
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by 007";513541]This [b][URL="http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/kountry-star-slideout-leak-38560.html
THREAD[/url][/b] explains what I did to remove the leak and sealant used, its going to be a summer project to do all the seams but those white streaks do show up more now, so its time to get busy.
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The link didn't work
__________________
Tim & Roseann Sikora
'11 Excel 36' GKE; '06 Volvo 670, 465 hp, 13 spd; '09 Smart Passion
This World is Ours to Preserve and Enjoy!
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06-15-2009, 08:55 PM
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#13
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Community Moderator
Nor'easters Club Newmar Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Salisbury,Ma. 01952
Posts: 13,617
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Give it a try now.
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