Community Forums

Daveg48 · 10-28-2009, 02:48 PM

Howdy folks. I am new to this place but have already found it to be great help. I have an 02 GS Prairie Schooner that is 33 ft long. I pull it with my 02 Dodge 2500 4x4 with the cummins. Gross weight of the PS is around 14,262. I am looking at an 04 Excel ltd that is 37 ft with washer/dryer and generator. Gross on it will approach 17,500. I do not want to have to buy an different truck too. I have had several people tell me the Dodge will handle it if I do not do a lot of mountain driving. Doing the math shows that I will be illegal but many of us are. Will I be safe? Just want some opinions.
Thanks

ChiefJohn · 10-28-2009, 02:59 PM

'Daveg48', I don't recommend pulled a 17,500 lb 5th wheel with a 3/4 ton and a 1 ton is marginally capable. Others will chime in on both sides of the fence -- we tried it with an F-350 and were not satisfied with the performance and/or narrow safety margin.

Do folks do it -- you bet, and some even try it with a half-ton!!

Always-RVing · 10-28-2009, 03:13 PM

It's a controversial subject about what will pull what beyond the tow vehicle's ratings. There are those that have pulled huge amounts of weight over what the tow vehicle was rated at and say they have no problems. While on the other hand, I have met some that pulled only a small amount over and developed problems with the tow vehicle right off. I know of one person who has an F-550 and 5ver that weighs in at 20k lbs. His 550 now has several problems. You'd think the F-550 would not have a problem, but then it depends upon the driver, the terrain, etc. I met another man pulling a 5ver with his F350 and trashed the F350 the first time out. Others with similar tow vehicles pulling similar weights have no problems. Some are content going up a hill at 20 mph while others take the same hill at 55 mph. Some brake far in advance while others start braking 50 feet before the stop. I know another man parked at the same RV park who has the heaviest 5ver I've seen at 26,000 lbs. I'm sure there are some out there heavier, but that is a huge amount of weight for a little pickup to haul. I don't know how he does it. He really needs to get a used cab chassis tractor. They sell for $15-25k and will not have a problem with that load (Moving or stopping). Some are really pushing the little pickups for more than they were ever meant. And, the tractor type cab & chassis can be titled for private use and do not require a CDL to operate.

Daveg48 · 10-28-2009, 03:40 PM

I underestand that completely and with that being said I should provide a little more info here. I am not retired, well not from all my jobs, and I use the trailer for a mobile office and home. Normally I am not over 5 hours away from my home base. I have never wintered in a fiver and would feel more secure in the Excel with thremopane windows etc. My stay this winter will be in Dodge City Kansas. I would love to have time to travel and see the country but not now. I did some of that in a former life and pulled a three horse gooseneck with living quarter across the US. That being said I will not be putting on the miles that some of you do.

KramalotInn · 10-28-2009, 04:02 PM

According to Dodge's 2002 Towing Guide a Dodge 2500 Quad-Cab 4x4 HO Cummings with a six-speed transmission has a maximum towing capacity of 13,250 lbs and a combined weight rating (GCWR) of 20,000 lbs. It looks like you are overweight with your current trailer. Can it pull the new trailer...probably? Can it pull it safely or more important, can it stop it safely in an emergency? I doubt it!

CaptPat · 10-28-2009, 04:14 PM

I had a 37 foot Travel Supreme (16500 lbs) that I towed with a Ford 350--that is until the trailer pushed me through a stop light at the base of a slight grade.

I got a MDT which gave me great peace of mind that given most situations I could reliably stop the rig when I needed to. An added bonus the MDT was more maneuverable than the 350.

As some have said you can probably get by, but you will be overloading the truck, something to consider in this day is what your liability might be if you are in an accident essentially operating illegal equipment. Just a thought.

Daveg48 · 10-28-2009, 04:29 PM

You guys are not telling me what I want to hear but you are telling the truth. Thanks so much.

ARRET · 10-28-2009, 05:26 PM

I'm pulling a 36GKM with a F350 and my 5er weigh 17500. I'm comfortable with it but you are going to have problems with weight and stability without a dual wheel truck. I tried towing a 12000 5er with a F250 and was not at all comfortable with it. I hooked the same 5er to my F350 DW to take it to trade in and couldn't every tell I had anything on behind me. Your cummins engine will do the job but I would seriously question the capability of the rest of the truck

Still Working "NOT" · 10-28-2009, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daveg48

You guys are not telling me what I want to hear but you are telling the truth. Thanks so much.

Dave,

The Excel your are looking at would most likely be one of their 35' models. With that said I would only consider a 1 ton dually at the very least. I was pulling a 2003 30' RGE with a 3/4 ton F-250. It handle it fine but I could no way put the boat behind it. Pulled the guts out of the pickup and was a wreck waiting to happen.

Since you are going to be in Dodge City, if you are going to be staying at Gunsmoke Campground, I would also consider getting a four wheel drive truck since their drive way is going uphill. With the way the weather is this year I'm looking for lots of snow and ice. You'll need the four wheel drive with the dually as they don't do good with out four drive on snow & ice.

If your need more info, feel free to PM me.

TXiceman · 10-28-2009, 06:35 PM

HERE is an excellent website by one of our forum members that explains att of the weight and towing terms. At the bottom of the article is a spread sheet where you can work through some numbers.

Ken

davydee · 10-28-2009, 07:02 PM

Dave - to add to the discussion, I've got an 09 verison that may closely match what you may be looking at as we're 37 feet, 8 inches in length. When we were loaded for a three week trip, we were right at 17,500. So your estimate of weight is right on. You can see in the signature block what we've chosen to tow it with. Stopping is always my concern. As we're from the east coast, the trip down Teton Pass (just west of Jackson, WY) was a learning experience for us. We moved the gain on the trailer brake controller from 3 to 5 after that experience. I'd be concerned for you if you got into an emergency situation with the 2500. Sorry

- other Dave

BookIIRoadtrash · 10-29-2009, 02:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptPat

I had a 37 foot Travel Supreme (16500 lbs) that I towed with a Ford 350--that is until the trailer pushed me through a stop light at the base of a slight grade.

I got a MDT which gave me great peace of mind that given most situations I could reliably stop the rig when I needed to. An added bonus the MDT was more maneuverable than the 350.

As some have said you can probably get by, but you will be overloading the truck, something to consider in this day is what your liability might be if you are in an accident essentially operating illegal equipment. Just a thought.

I know this thread is about the tow vehicle, but I am wondering why no one has mentioned how to set their trailer brakes. I have mine set so the trailer brakes engage first before my truck. With weight behind me I want it to slow down before my truck does. Other wise the trailer weight is going to keep pushing me and I will not get stopped where I want to. I have seen the brakes on rigs with over a 100,000 mile on it and they are still good. I use the trailer brakes to slow me down, that is why there is that little lever on the brake controller. I very seldom use my truck brakes when I am towing., I don’t want the expense of replacing my brakes and save the truck brakes for that emergency. The only thing is when using the brake controller by hand is it does not activate the brake lights on the trailer so once in awhile I do tap the brake pedal to let vehicles behind me know I am slowing down.

BookIIRoadtrash · 10-29-2009, 02:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batman_777

It's a controversial subject about what will pull what beyond the tow vehicle's ratings. There are those that have pulled huge amounts of weight over what the tow vehicle was rated at and say they have no problems. While on the other hand, I have met some that pulled only a small amount over and developed problems with the tow vehicle right off. I know of one person who has an F-550 and 5ver that weighs in at 20k lbs. His 550 now has several problems. You'd think the F-550 would not have a problem, but then it depends upon the driver, the terrain, etc. I met another man pulling a 5ver with his F350 and trashed the F350 the first time out. Others with similar tow vehicles pulling similar weights have no problems. Some are content going up a hill at 20 mph while others take the same hill at 55 mph. Some brake far in advance while others start braking 50 feet before the stop. I know another man parked at the same RV park who has the heaviest 5ver I've seen at 26,000 lbs. I'm sure there are some out there heavier, but that is a huge amount of weight for a little pickup to haul. I don't know how he does it. He really needs to get a used cab chassis tractor. They sell for $15-25k and will not have a problem with that load (Moving or stopping). Some are really pushing the little pickups for more than they were ever meant. And, the tractor type cab & chassis can be titled for private use and do not require a CDL to operate.

I see the same thing with the motor home folks, some times some of the ones I meet on the road, I think they are paying taxes on both sides of the road and very seldom see one that knows how to make a right hand turn using only one lane. I do think you are right that everyone should at least have a class C CDL and if no prior experience should have to do a Driving School.

davydee · 10-29-2009, 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woodhicker

I know this thread is about the tow vehicle, but I am wondering why no one has mentioned how to set their trailer brakes. I have mine set so the trailer brakes engage first before my truck. With weight behind me I want it to slow down before my truck does. Other wise the trailer weight is going to keep pushing me and I will not get stopped where I want to. I have seen the brakes on rigs with over a 100,000 mile on it and they are still good. I use the trailer brakes to slow me down, that is why there is that little lever on the brake controller. I very seldom use my truck brakes when I am towing., I don’t want the expense of replacing my brakes and save the truck brakes for that emergency. The only thing is when using the brake controller by hand is it does not activate the brake lights on the trailer so once in awhile I do tap the brake pedal to let vehicles behind me know I am slowing down.

Great point. However, if a driver is using a Ford integrated brake controller with hydraulic disc brakes, there's a delay in the electric over hydraulic system of about a half a second. It results in the tow vehicle always slowing first. You get use to it, but it's there. Not real noticeable in normal driving, but you're reminded of it if you have to stop quickly.