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Old 10-21-2011, 04:00 PM   #15
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<a href="Pictures by virgil47 - Photobucket" target="_blank"><img src="http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0-21165632.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

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Old 10-21-2011, 04:03 PM   #16
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http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...0-21165632.jpg

Here is a picture of my new crack.

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Old 10-21-2011, 04:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakinSmoke View Post
Well, Virg, you're right again.......I ain't never seen one like that.
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:31 PM   #18
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Thanks for the photo. That is one strange crack and one where I wouldn't have expected.

A couple of more cuts/scrapes on the fingers and I would have thought someone had stolen my hands!!!

Don't know why after 3 1/2 years my crack got longer? Maybe now towing with a F350 with less give and take and firmer tow....or....after replacing all the screws on the 'nose cap' and curbside of the unit has eliminated some of the give and take it used to have. Just don't know and really doesn't matter at this point I guess.

Only have a close 4 day trip planned in the next several months...so gives me a chance to figure out a plan.
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:34 PM   #19
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I'm curious about this material-



Does anyone know why the fiberglass is bonded to the wood?
That looks like what I've always heard referred to as "sandwichboard"- particle board with veneer on both sides...

Thanks!

Francesca
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:10 AM   #20
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Don't know if I can answer your question....but have to guess that the fiberglass is bonded to the ply backer to make it stronger and allow it to be bonded/attached to the studs without exterior fasteners running up the sidewalls.

Here is information obtained from PI's, it shows the wall construction. If I remember right...this is from my 2001 Excel literature.




You stated: That looks like what I've always heard referred to as "sandwichboard"- particle board with veneer on both sides... The construction is not particle board, it is solid veneer sheets ran in diffferent orientations to make of the plywood backer. The photo posted does make it look that way...but it is not.

This construction makes for a strong sidewall, unless it cracks.
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:36 AM   #21
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Thanks!

That's real descriptive...

I've wondered what "delamination" meant in the case of RV's- I didn't realize that the sidewalls aren't solid fiberglass! Seems like that plywood could soak up moisture and separate, but maybe they've waterproofed it somehow.
So, is that pretty much the way all fiberglass sided rigs are constructed these days?

Thanks again

Francesca
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:23 PM   #22
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The good people at TriamRV in Ocala took a picture of the crack and told me they would email it to Curtis Peterson and get back to me about what should be done. Meanwhile, they drilled it out at the apex or pinnacle of the crack, caulked it and covered it with eternabond tape. Repair looks good. It'll be interesting to see what Curtis says.
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:42 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakinSmoke View Post
The good people at TriamRV in Ocala took a picture of the crack and told me they would email it to Curtis Peterson and get back to me about what should be done. Meanwhile, they drilled it out at the apex or pinnacle of the crack, caulked it and covered it with eternabond tape. Repair looks good. It'll be interesting to see what Curtis says.
Thanks for the followup. After last time....I can't believe you didn't include a dadblame pic of the temp fix....when are you gonna learn, Virg???!!!!
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Old 10-27-2011, 02:02 PM   #24
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Thanks for the followup. After last time....I can't believe you didn't include a dadblame pic of the temp fix....when are you gonna learn, Virg???!!!!
I know there is a derisive quote about the minds of people who can not decipher word pictures...I'll get back to you.
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:17 AM   #25
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With a short trip planned for this weekend...decided I needed to do something to the crack. Either put a larger Dicor patch on it or attempt a repair that might stop the crack and fiberglass damage from getting worst.

Decided to attempt the repair. Maybe an ideal crack and cut in the glass would have been 90 degree vertical rather than something about 45. But deal with what one has.

I reviewed a photo that was initially posted by sidkaye when his crack was repaired at PI. This gave some idea as to 'how' my framing might be installed. I felt that I couldn't put screws into the glass to secure the glass....as the lack of movement and flex in the area is what caused the crack. So felt I needed to do something that allowed some movement between the area beneath the 'sleeper' and the short wall section. Besides I drilled a hole just below the line I cut to place a screw to draw the sidewall closer to the frame...as there was a 'slight bump' there, and had nothing to secure to....so no framing or moisture damage? Don't know.

Here are a series of photos of the repair. Will see how it looks and functions after the short 110 mile trip. Will see how well HOPE does!

Next option is to see if I can order a large section of wall glass and attempt a replacement....



Photo of the present crack...




Photo of the framing of the front section...




Line drawn for cut...




Cut line...




Patch material cut to fit...




Patch installed. Cut area was filled with a Dicor 'non-leveling' sealant as was the back of the patch. This should allow for weather proofing and remain flexable.




Initally was to cover the patch with a strip of Dicor material....found that there was a series of hair line cracks below the patch strip that wasn't seen below....? Had to install a larger patch than I wanted to and will see how it all holds up. Getting the Dicor to stick well in 50 degree temps is alittle harder than if it was 80. So will be repling in the future.




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Old 11-30-2011, 07:56 AM   #26
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Nice job work.......you are a great craftsman. I bet it works great for you. Let us know after the trip out. rockin'
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Old 12-08-2011, 08:07 AM   #27
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Made the trip, the Dicor patch stayed in place and not worse for wear. It did appear to lift somewhat...but had some even before the trip. With the temps here before we left, think the tape and fiberglass was a bit cool to get the bond I could have gotten if warmer during the install.

One of the other things I noticed was by placing the tape below the trim pieces, that it caused it to raise when the screws were tightened. I will be replacing the Dicor patch with one made of Eternabond at some point. It will remain whiter longer, is thinner and has a better bond...and hopefully will not raise up. Will have to try it under and outside the trim.


Patch after install:




Patch after trip:





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