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Old 09-03-2008, 06:07 PM   #1
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I had a crack appear between the floor and the outside wall on my large slide-out between the two rams. There is a angle iron welded on the ends of the slide-outs and a few screws through the iron to hold the outside wall on my 30ft., 04 trailer. Two screws were gone, some were 20 inches apart an some were 12 to 15 inches apart, and only about five altogether. I put in one and half inch, one quarter inch lag bolts five to seven inches apart down the angle iron. It seemed to tighten every thing up. Then I found loose screws behind the slide out trim on that holds the rubber seal in place. This is when you are in the trailer looking behind the vertical trim board at the front end of the slide-out. Two of the screws had nothing behind them to ever have done any good, just a empty space until you hit the outside wall. Is there anything a person can put in the hole that will harden and hold a screw and really do any good. I do believe that a bit more care could have been benifical when this trailer was built in '04.
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Old 09-03-2008, 06:07 PM   #2
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I had a crack appear between the floor and the outside wall on my large slide-out between the two rams. There is a angle iron welded on the ends of the slide-outs and a few screws through the iron to hold the outside wall on my 30ft., 04 trailer. Two screws were gone, some were 20 inches apart an some were 12 to 15 inches apart, and only about five altogether. I put in one and half inch, one quarter inch lag bolts five to seven inches apart down the angle iron. It seemed to tighten every thing up. Then I found loose screws behind the slide out trim on that holds the rubber seal in place. This is when you are in the trailer looking behind the vertical trim board at the front end of the slide-out. Two of the screws had nothing behind them to ever have done any good, just a empty space until you hit the outside wall. Is there anything a person can put in the hole that will harden and hold a screw and really do any good. I do believe that a bit more care could have been benifical when this trailer was built in '04.
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Old 09-05-2008, 02:37 PM   #3
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Jim I assume this is the angle iron you were referring to. On mine I have screws into the floor and wall about every 5-6 inches the length of the 'run'. I have two bolts at each end that attaches the slide out to the ram assy and a single bolt at the bottom of the ram plate that helps 'control' the skirt while in operation.

Believe the 'angle iron' helps to unite the ram assy and slide room making it function as a single unit and thus making it stronger.

Was the angle drilled and no screws or no holes at all?




When you were referring to the interior trim where the screws were loose...is this the trim your were refering to? Were the screws at the top or bottom and when they were taken out...were they 'clean' or 'rusted'. As this trim is a 'boxed' end ( ] ) that covers the end of the wall, the screws on the outside would also screw into the same areas. Is this the area you were asking about?

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Old 09-05-2008, 05:43 PM   #4
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There were very few holes drilled in that angle iron and one had a screw missing and one had a screw about half way out----and the holes that were there were not evenly spaced. I just think that on that day things were a bit loose as far as quality control. You have the right picture on the seal looking from the inside(I wish I had the skill to put pictures on with my questions]. The screws at the top and bottom were snugged in tight---- two of the screws were hanging half out and at first appearance I thought they were bent but they were not. All the rest of the screws seemed to be ok. I won't say the loose screws were bright but they were not rusted. I think I know where you are headed-----rot-rot, but I can't find any sign of moisture. I checked the screw on the outside and everything seemed to be ok, that piece fits up nice and snug. I just thought of this , I didn't check to see if the outside screws and the inside screws were at different places up and down the wall.
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Old 09-06-2008, 08:11 AM   #5
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Jim, glad to here that there isn't a possibly of water damage. Without seeing and touching your trim screws can't say what the possible cause of the screws being loose would be. Maybe just stripped out in the wood that secures it? Maybe just screwed into the panel and not the frame members. On my unit the outside trim screws are closer to the edge and slightly offset then the inside screws. Believe the outside to have 'greater' value.

Below is a photo of the trim from underneath my unit showing its design. The slide and trim is on the right. Wall, trim and gaskets on the left. You can see how the trim 'caps' the wall's end edge. The 'circle' gasket at the top is the same trim you see from inside the slide that seals the slide when extended.

To answer your question if anything can be done to tighten those screws.....without knowing if its hollow behind, other than paneling, or just stripped it would be hard to say from where I sit. If just stripped, installing a one-two size larger screw should tighten it up, but can't think of a filler to fill the void through the hole?

Hope the photo helps.


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Old 09-06-2008, 11:19 AM   #6
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I reached in after bringing the slide-out in a few inches and measured with a tooth pick and the toothpick wentin roughly two inches, I think it went to the outside wall----and I took out three more screws for a total of five---all bright with no wood reidue on the threads. I did feel a slight bit of moisture on my finger down at the bottom but it could have come up from below off the road as we run through lit rain coming out to Omaha.
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:03 AM   #7
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Workshop, I talked to The factory this morning and they told me that that it is not a big deal to have missing screws on the inside of the vertical seal at the front of the slide-out as it is a one piece cap that covers the end of the trailer's frame and is ok if the outside is solidly attached. I did crawl underneath and look up along the seal and there is no rot. They think the stops need adjusting to keep the front ram from pushing out so hard onthe wall and causing the crack between the floor and wall. The stops are on the rear ram and you get to them by removing some tin work. I think I got that part right. And they said I could be one tooth off between the front and rear rams. I noticed the rear of the slide-out is slighty behind the front in going down when moving it out. The front ram will still push on the slide-out skirt before the slip clutch slips. As you all can tell, the factory was willing to answer all my questions and very courteous. And they are now making appointments for Nov. I am going to talk to my Guthrie Center dealer when I get back and in the meantime, be very careful when sliding it out. I am not sure I have the right tools with me to work on it now.
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Old 09-08-2008, 12:02 PM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Farmer Jim:
Workshop, I talked to The factory this morning and they told me that that it is not a big deal to have missing screws on the inside of the vertical seal......

....They think the stops need adjusting to keep the front ram from pushing out so hard on the wall and causing the crack between the floor and wall. The stops are on the rear ram and you get to them by removing some tin work. And they said I could be one tooth off between the front and rear rams. I noticed the rear of the slide-out is slighty behind the front in going down when moving it out. The front ram will still push on the slide-out skirt before the slip clutch slips.

....As you all can tell, the factory was willing to answer all my questions and very courteous. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Jim, I would agree the outside screws are the important ones and the inside fuctions to help keep the trim flush with the wall. If everything is secure, I don't think I would be removing the trim to correct it.

When you are referring to having a crack between the wall and floor, are your talking about a crack in the outside fibergalss gelcoat in the area where the floor and wall would join? Or are you referring to a gap between the angle iron and the wall/floor from underneath. With the mention of the rams, or inner rails, being out of timing or alinment is something else.

When you bring the slide in or out...does the skirts stay in line with the exterior wall when it is in travel and pulling tight.

I have had to do an alignment and timing of my slide. The rear was out about 3/4 inch from the front. Found that I had a stop when the slide was brought in but not extended and it was on the aft ram near the ram skirt plate. There wasn't a stop on the ram when extending the large slide. Is on the Enterainment slide. After many attempts to set the timing or alignment using 'equal distance' or nose cone alignment, ended up using the slide flange trim to match up with the exterior wall trim as the factor when I had it aligned. In other words the exterior wall and slide was lined up. Doing that, all other measurements would be out. My rear ram travels first when moving the slide in/out. I extend and retract my slide by 'feel and look' rather than letting the cluch click.

I would agree, PI was very helpful in e-mails and phone call in giving me the info to do the alignment myself.

The post I'm working on presently is on the Barker slide hardware and the following one on the alignment.

Would be interested to know when the wall's edge is even with the slide's flange when bring in the slide...where the other matches up.

Hope I didn't confuse?
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:45 PM   #9
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Workshop, my crack between my floor and outside wall is from the front ram forward about a foot and if you stand outside and eye ball it along the lower part of the slide-out lookin from front to rear you can see a bulge in the skirt area ahead of the fender. Fiberglass----ok----just a crack between the floor and the wall ahead of the front ram. By hitting the in-switch a couple of times, the crack closes and the wall appears normal. With the crack open I can see one bent nail that held the two together. SC said to toenail them after adjusting the ram. I see the inbound stop on the rear ram you talked about and I think he said the outbound stop was on the rear ram under the cover. I once had a American Star and it had a switch which kicked off as the motor pulled down at the end of the cycle[I suppose it measured the current], worked kind of in a neat way. You are right---use the 'feel and look'at the end of the movement cycle.
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