Community Forums

TomR · 07-27-2011, 06:23 PM

I have been reading many threads in SOB sites about the inability to keep a unit cool in the really hot...say 95 degrees and up...heat...particularly when you are parked with little natural shade.

I have become a "believer" in the quality and integrity of the Excel units...and perhaps some of the other "fulltime/residential" type units.

I am sure plenty of you have been there...maybe there right now...ie; 100 degrees and parked in no shade!

What interior temperature do you find you can keep your unit? I am not sure I want to spend my time on all the creative methods of trying to keep a unit "down" to 80-85 degrees...maybe my wife and I are less tolerant and want a more comfortable interior temperature.

I would appreciate comments about the cooling temperatures that can reasonably be expected in an Excel. We are certainly willing to have two AC units if that does the trick.

Any significant difference between an Excel 5er and an Excel TT?

ALso, have any of you ordered w/o the skylights to help achieve effective AC?

Thanks All...Tom R

TXiceman · 07-27-2011, 06:55 PM

Excel uses the same A/C equipment as other manufacturers and other RVs face the same issues keeping cool in hot weather.

What brand and brand and size A/C equipment is installed in your RV? Do you have one or two units?

The key to hot weather use of any RV is shade the windows as much as possible or better shade the RV. Applying insulation to the windows helps as well.

To see if the A/c is working at max, put the blowers on high, crank the thermostat down to about 70 degF and let it run for at least 15 minutes like this. Now get a temperature reading of the air temperature entering the unit as close to the unit as possible. Then get an air temperature reading leaving the unit as close to the unit as possible. The leaving temperature should be 18 to 20 degF lower than the inlet temperature. If not, pretty close to this range, the unit is not operating properly.

Things to check are air filters, clean evaporator coil and air leaks in the unit allowing air to bypass from the outlet directly to the inlet. I have seen some pretty sloppy units and installations from the low end units up to the high end units.

You would get more and better responses in the general RV forum.

Ken

TomR · 07-27-2011, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TXiceman

Excel uses the same A/C equipment as other manufacturers and other RVs face the same issues keeping cool in hot weather.

What brand and brand and size A/C equipment is installed in your RV? Do you have one or two units?

The key to hot weather use of any RV is shade the windows as much as possible or better shade the RV. Applying insulation to the windows helps as well.

To see if the A/c is working at max, put the blowers on high, crank the thermostat down to about 70 degF and let it run for at least 15 minutes like this. Now get a temperature reading of the air temperature entering the unit as close to the unit as possible. Then get an air temperature reading leaving the unit as close to the unit as possible. The leaving temperature should be 18 to 20 degF lower than the inlet temperature. If not, pretty close to this range, the unit is not operating properly.

Things to check are air filters, clean evaporator coil and air leaks in the unit allowing air to bypass from the outlet directly to the inlet. I have seen some pretty sloppy units and installations from the low end units up to the high end units.

You would get more and better responses in the general RV forum.

Ken

Thanks Ken...just a "wanabee" learning just a bit of what I don't know!

I see you own an Avion...I was just reading an Airstream thread about the problems of cooling in 95 degrees...which we seem to have a lot of this year. They seem to spend a lot of time working on fixes to try and improve the temps when hot out.

I posted in Excel site to learn if the higher insulation and heavier construction might make them more efficient...

I would plan on two units in any TT over say 27'...and most 5ers over 32'.

Thanks...Tom R

Endeavor2BnC · 07-27-2011, 07:38 PM

We are currently sitting in Edinburgh, IN at Camp Atterbury. We are on a stone pad with NO shade. The rig is sitting North to South. We have an '11 36' GKE w one a/c. Today's temp was 94 w 90% humidity. In short, HOT, HOT, HOT. We have installed outside 80% UV screens on all the windows except the bdr. The shades are up to let in as much light as possible. We have the a/c set at 76*. We have a 4" fan in the bedroom to circulate the air.

Current readings are: floor - 70*, outlet - 46*, inlet - 62*. The thermostat temp is 76*. We are very comfortable. The highest temp I've seen today was 79*. We are very satisfied with the cooling system.

TXiceman · 07-27-2011, 08:03 PM

The Excels are insulated a better than the most. I believe DRV, Mobile Suites has the thickest walls and best insulation values.

On the Avion, we do not have any problems keeping cool...two 15,000 BTUH Colemans and converted to 50 amp service. The 4th of July, we were camped north of Houston in mostly sun, just a little shade and during the middle of the day (100 degF peak), we easily held 75 degF with the oven going for 90 minutes. Most of the day, we ran on one unit and had to go to the second unit from about 2PM to 5PM. The Avion is 35' long.

In the part of the country we live in, ANY RV over 30', needs 2 A/C, TT, 5er or motorhome if you want to be comfortable. Still you can help any of them with window awnings, and/or Reflectix insulation cut to fit windows. We are true believers inslots of shade trees. At out home, the only way to see the sky is to look straight up...lots of trees with a hole cut large enough to get the house in.

ken

TomR · 07-27-2011, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Endeavor2BnC

We are currently sitting in Edinburgh, IN at Camp Atterbury. We are on a stone pad with NO shade. The rig is sitting North to South. We have an '11 36' GKE w one a/c. Today's temp was 94 w 90% humidity. In short, HOT, HOT, HOT. We have installed outside 80% UV screens on all the windows except the bdr. The shades are up to let in as much light as possible. We have the a/c set at 76*. We have a 4" fan in the bedroom to circulate the air.

Current readings are: floor - 70*, outlet - 46*, inlet - 62*. The thermostat temp is 76*. We are very comfortable. The highest temp I've seen today was 79*. We are very satisfied with the cooling system.

Doesn't sound like you can ask for better than that!

Are the 80% UV screens a "snap-on" type of connection or ? I would guess they help quite q bit?

I would have thought 2 ACs "prudent" in a 36' unit...this is good input...Thanks...Tom R

Still Working "NOT" · 07-27-2011, 08:46 PM

One trick I use to help is to place vent pillows in the vents. If it keeps the heat in during the winter it will also keep the cool in during the summer. I do have two 15,000 btu air units on the Wild Child. I mounted the second one on the back to keep it cool. This does allows the front unit to keep the bedroom decent during the days.

I keep the front air at 72* and the rear at 75*. I am setting in a mostly open sun here in western Kansas with today being 103* outside and never check but I would guess it was around 73* in here this afternoon.

The sun shades that Tim has do make a big difference or you can put awnings over each outside window. I had both on the 2003 30RGE Classic and I could tell the difference in it. Since I have Thermopane on this unit I have never given a lot of thought to putting shades or awnings on. If I did I'm sure I would see a bvig difference.

rockintom · 07-27-2011, 11:32 PM

Something that I think is worth mentioning here is since '10 Excel has been using the new Polar Mach verses the Coleman Mach on previous years. Without getting into a lot of detail, the new Polar Mach is 15,000 BTU just like the Coleman Mach. The overall performance and cooling is far superior than the previous model. I understand it is also more energy efficient. The PM is also a lower profile unit. The PM also has a larger condenser area and a higher air volume at the vents. My experience with Polar Mach has been outstanding. I understand that Dometic has a new and improved unit too. Hip-hip-hooray for modern technology! rockin'

Endeavor2BnC · 07-28-2011, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomR

Doesn't sound like you can ask for better than that!

Are the 80% UV screens a "snap-on" type of connection or ? I would guess they help quite q bit?

I would have thought 2 ACs "prudent" in a 36' unit...this is good input...Thanks...Tom R

The screens are snap-on type. There are several types on snaps that can be employed.

We thought we'd need 2 a/c's also but wanted to start with one. We are very happy with this set-up. We are going to add screens to the bedroom windows. We have the inside silver covers but when we use those we can't open the windows for light or air flow.

gdbontly · 07-28-2011, 07:54 AM

Another vote for the exterior shades. Based on Tim's recommendation, we ordered the same ones and they really make a big difference.

We also considered installing the second A/C, but so far we see no need for it. We usually keep the thermostat set around 78 degrees. Coach stays nice and cool in the near 100 degree temps here in the Albuquerque area.

TomR · 07-28-2011, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdbontly

Another vote for the exterior shades. Based on Tim's recommendation, we ordered the same ones and they really make a big difference.

We also considered installing the second A/C, but so far we see no need for it. We usually keep the thermostat set around 78 degrees. Coach stays nice and cool in the near 100 degree temps here in the Albuquerque area.

The screens seem to make great sense.

Question...do the "snaps" have to be mounted on the sidewall by somehow making a hole in the wall of the unit? ie; do you have lots of small holes with the receiving part of the snap.

Seems like that would "hurt" to do that?

Thanks...Tom R

Ol-Forester · 07-28-2011, 08:38 AM

We camped at West Lafayette, IN a couple weeks ago. It is a new state park with a prairie setting and has little or no shade. Outside temps were up in the 90's, had the thermostat set at 71 in the morning. By mid afternoon inside temp was 75. I thought that was pretty good for a 34' coach with one air conditioner.

Endeavor2BnC · 07-28-2011, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomR

The screens seem to make great sense.

Question...do the "snaps" have to be mounted on the sidewall by somehow making a hole in the wall of the unit? ie; do you have lots of small holes with the receiving part of the snap.

Seems like that would "hurt" to do that?

Thanks...Tom R

The snaps that we used do make holes in the rig. Each hole is filled with silicone. You can also use snaps that use tape to adhere to the fiberglass. You can do a search for EZ Snaps and read about them. Either one works well.

gdbontly · 07-29-2011, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Endeavor2BnC

The snaps that we used do make holes in the rig. Each hole is filled with silicone. You can also use snaps that use tape to adhere to the fiberglass. You can do a search for EZ Snaps and read about them. Either one works well.

I opted for the EZ Snaps because I didn't want to drill holes for the standard snaps. EZ Snaps recommends placing the snaps approximately 12" apart, so there's a BUNCH of them, and they are relatively expensive ($50 plus shipping from Canada for a set of 60; I'm using 140 of those little buggers)! I've learned that the high temps make the pads and adhesive very soft, so last time I removed the shades, some of the bases pulled off of the coach. I still like the concept of the EZ Snaps; if the fabric starts to wrinkle, I can re-poke the holes and re-install over the "female" part of the snaps. To keep the "male" bases from pulling off of the side of the coach, I plan to drill a small hole in the center of each one of the bases (through the wall of the coach)

and insert a small stainless screw (I'll dab some silicone in each hole before installing the screws). EZ Snaps also sells the standard "male" snaps (the part that you screw into the coach). I could switch to those since I'm having to drill into the sides anyway; this will still allow me to readjust the fabric if needed. But since the 3M bases are already installed, it'll be much quicker and much cheaper to purchase and install the little screws.