Fixing flaking stain

[Bruce and Jenna]

The stain on my cherry stained maple woodwork is flaking off. Not the doors, just the frames for the cabinets. In wet areas, like the bottom of the stove cabinet and bathroom.



I obtained some stain from PI. Now how do I apply it? Sand off the edges of the flaked area first, or just apply the stain? And what kinda applicator?

[PapPappy]

No expert here....and you may get better advice, but I'll toss in my two cents!

It looks like the polyurethane/varnish is what came off, and took a coating with it. It is effected by moisture, so it makes sense that near the floor, where you might mop, it would get worn.

You will want to sand it lightly, to get any other "poly" off before staining again. Sand it to where you don't see/feel the coating, but don't need to sand down to bare wood. Then, in an area that isn't too obvious, stain to try and match the existing stain....wiping off or adding more stain, as needed to match. Keep in mind, it may get a bit darker when you add the polyurethane to it later.

Once it's dry, coat with the poly.....giving it 2-3 coats (check the instructions on the can...light sanding between coats)....with the extra coats only helping protect it from future moisture problems. Personally, I like the water-based poly, but they don't recommend it on Mahogany. You might want to talk with one of the people at HD or a paint store, for more advice. Taking the RV to Sherwin Williams, you might have the guy tell you what products to use, as I'm sure they would love to take a look inside the RV.

Another option might be to add molding to that section of the cabinets. The rubber kind that is used on tile floors. It is just glued in place, and you wouldn't need to worry about wear and tear on it in the future. This might be your "Plan B" if "Plan A" doesn't look as good as you'd like.

Good Luck....send us "after" pictures!!

[rockintom]

Bruce,

Looks like where Clancy has been wee-weein'!!!! I'm sorry, I just couldn't resist!

Our ol' termite-lovin' workhorse will be in here to give you really good professional assistance. He's so dawg-gone good, his friends call him "woody". I think it's time to get back cleanin' my house like a good boy.

[Hermandutchman]

you talk about flake and guess who answers, ol rockin

[BookIIRoadtrash]

Originally Posted by Hermandutchman

you talk about flake and guess who answers, ol rockin

Good One!!!!

[rockintom]

And Herman...I thought you were a pretty nice guy when I met you at the reunion....but now....I now know OK! Good one. rockin'

[Workshop]

Woody here?

Several questions:

Is the finish actually flaking off and can be scraped off with a finger nail ? or is it just slightly worn on the upper frame areas?

It has been my experience that a finish stain will penetrate the wood to change it color. A lot of the newer 'stain - finish materials' that are available now to simplify life is a one step process that applies most of the stain in the 'finishes top coat' and doesn't penetrate the wood as much. From the photos and the finish problem….that what it appears.

I don't see a varnish or poly top coat finish. If it is, it's not thick and was possibly sprayed on. You should check with PI and see if the stain you received is 'a stain' or 'stain - finish materials'. That will determine if anything is needed after the stain is applied.

Not being there….I don't know if I would sand the frame areas larger than the 'bad spot' if I had another choice. I think that sanding all those small areas into one big repair might make the repaired area noticeable if the repair finish didn't match. If sanded to aggressive, and sometimes it doesn't take much…it could make the stained area darker.

Depending on if the area to be repaired is slightly lower than the good finish….and sanding was needed for the results you want, I might try using a small piece of 'wet/dry' sandpaper (400-600 grit) wet with the stain to sand the area lightly. Or use a 00 to 0000 steel wool again with stain to rub the spot to blend the finishes and remove the ring or ridge if desired. Always go with the grain to prevent cross grain markings.

For applying stain…I often use a cloth rag for something this size. In this case with small areas…I might try putting stain on the tip of the cloth and dabbing the area or use a small artist brush to 'paint' the stain on. Let it set and wipe off. Might have to apply several times and vary the set time to get the color match you want. Depending on the finish top coat…might have to apply the stain to a larger area when finished to blend it all together if needed.

MinWax makes a Stain Marker that might be used on the smaller areas here or in other places. It also makes a Tung Oil that can be applied as a top coat and a Paste Wax that leaves a nice finish.
I sometimes use 0000 steel wool to rub/buff out a finish to blend it together before applying a top coat.

Be sure to use Blue Painter tape on the floor to prevent the stain from 'staining' the floor.

Seeing and doing is easier than explaining?!?!?

workhorse

[rockintom]

See there....I told you ol' "woodhorse" could explain it very quick and easy! Heckfire, I didn't give that much detail to do my grey tank job! Clear as mud.....workhorse you may have forgotten who you are addressing. Bruce's skill level may equal Virg's!!!! .....boy am I cruising for a brusin'....

And then I wonder why everyone is always pickin' on me...

[Bruce and Jenna]

Originally Posted by rockintom

See there....I told you ol' "woodhorse" could explain it very quick and easy! Heckfire, I didn't give that much detail to do my grey tank job! Clear as mud.....workhorse you may have forgotten who you are addressing. Bruce's skill level may equal Virg's!!!! .....boy am I cruising for a brusin'....

And then I wonder why everyone is always pickin' on me...

When I consider the comment, I consider the source. In this case, I don't consider the comment at all.
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Mr. Wood,
The stain flakes off by scratching it with a fingernail. Yes, it appears that the stain was applied just to the surface, thus now exposing the unstained wood. Very disappointing. All the doors are fine. Maybe they soaked the doors, but sprayed the frames after installing?

Makes me wonder how long the rest of the frames will last. Some of the edges of the frames, like the openings for the doors, look like this too. Should I consider applying a real varnish on all the frames to avoid further deterioration?

Pap,
Thanks for your suggestions too. Unfortunately, some of the flaking stain is higher than floor level, like the closet in the bath. O/W moulding would be a good option.

[rockintom]

Originally Posted by Bruce and Jenna

When I consider the comment, I consider the source. In this case, I don't consider the comment at all.

I deserved that one....great comeback Bruce. Good one!!!

[MonacoMama]

Bruce...SacsTC first asked me if you had a dog...I did not ask him why...but he did suggest trying out a small inconspicuous area and test it with a paper towel.

...and I have to tell ya ...SKIA has been pretty good about taking all the pokes in the last 48 hours ...You have made your Mama proud, Tom!

[rockintom]

Originally Posted by MonacoMama

Bruce...SacsTC first asked me if you had a dog...I did not ask him why...but he did suggest trying out a small inconspicuous area and test it with a paper towel.

...and I have to tell ya ...SKIA has been pretty good about taking all the pokes in the last 48 hours ...You have made your Mama proud, Tom!

Remember.....sooooo sensitive!

[BookIIRoadtrash]

Rockin and Bruce please quit bickering.........remember........................ ............




Deja Brew

[rockintom]

HPD,

Good one!

I do, believe you are just wishin' you were in the middle of this one!!!! rockin'