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Old 07-07-2018, 07:27 PM   #15
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A couple years ago I had run some too long screws through the basement floor into both tanks. I dropped both tanks and got some ABS mending material, cement and fabric and ABS flat sheet. Patched all those holes remounted the tanks and added lots of better straps, length and cross wise. Also added a couple more steel plates under the whole thing. Keep in mind there must be some slack in those straps for the tank to expand slightly, but not too much. All has been good for three years now after many miles on bouncy roads. I try to always empty holding tanks before driving. Or at least dry keeping them under half full.

Whereís tank replacement makes a lots of sense, I do believe that if the split is along the flat top seam it could be fixed with a mending kit. One time I repaired a split that formed in the top round portion of the reinforcing ribs in the bottom of the tank. If you have not seen a tank you may not understand that comment.


I used rubber ABS joint sections with screw bands from a box store to reconnect all of the pipes rising out of the tank. None of this was easy work or fun for one person under the trailer.

I also replaced all of the tank valves while the under belly was open. Also built an easy access panel to access the valves in the future. As has been recommended before I would encourage all Excel owners to add tanks bands before troubles happens.

Like others I normally drive with about half full fresh water tank, allows unplanned night stops.
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Old 07-07-2018, 08:28 PM   #16
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Fred you make some great points. I agree and endorse all but my experience with a repair on the lower area near the seam area didn't hold all that long. You must be a better repair person than ol' rockin'. And it also been in my experience, if you "disturb" a tank valve it will not seal up (internally) if it has been used for a while. At a minimum replace all the valve seals when working on it. Or new valve assys. if they are elderly.
I'm surprised your rig didn't have an access door to the valves. All three of our Excels did. But I've heard that they simply did do all of them in production.
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Old 07-09-2018, 05:50 PM   #17
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Tom,
I was not clear enough, I replaced the entire value assembly for both tanks. Also removed the Ez pivot and attached another 3Ē value at the hose attachment point. I like this much better.

I would never suggest all waste tank breaks can be patched. Flat surfaces are simple with the repair kit. Tank comes out stronger. Any round area becomes tricker.

To store the waste hoses, I setup a typical 5x5Ē pvc fence post with a pvc rain gutter section for a tray. Put on two post caps for the ends. I now have three of these drawers, two for sewer stuff and one longer fishing pole cases and other long poles.
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Old 07-10-2018, 11:34 PM   #18
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I have the same year as yours. Mine does have the extra external straps. Two of them. I don't know what size main straps were used as in a prior post someone (Tom?) stated for a while PI had used thicker straps in an effort to resolve the issue, but may have returned to the thinner straps to clear inventory.. I have been fortunate so far and have not had the tank break. I do boondock a few times a year and have to travel with the tanks near full, sometimes over washboard dirt roads. After PI went out of business I bought a warranty from Good Sam, knowing from this forum that the tanks were an issue. The Good Sam paper works states it will cover the tanks. Now one of two things will happen, the tank will break and they will not cover it due to some clause I did not read, or the tank will break the day after the warranty expires!!
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Old 07-19-2018, 03:22 PM   #19
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Is it necessary to drop belly blanket to achieve full benefit from adding straps?
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:15 PM   #20
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Depends. You can add a couple of heavy straps, branches under the blanket and improve it some. I added both length wise and cross straps inside the insulation and a couple more outside or under the insulation. I think it would be very difficult adding lengthwise straps without dropping the underbelly.
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:56 AM   #21
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Thought I would jump on this thread since I just developed a grey tank leak on my 30RSO.
We were testing to see how much more water the grey tank would after the full light came on. After 20 MORE gallons the tank started leaking. It appears to be be on the bottom near the outlet but not sure. I have the inspection, service plate off but can''t tell for sure where the leak is. WE have Good SAM coverage but I would like to see if I can find the leak. How do you remove the belly paper to expose the tank?
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Old 08-01-2018, 01:35 PM   #22
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If I remember correctly it was stapled to wood strips that were screwed to steel frame parts. Getting it off was easy. Putting back up was another very different story, working solo. I ended up replacing the whole fabric system with coroform?? Plastic like cardboard. Itís used for printing yard signs and stuff. I bought a couple of 4 x 8 ft sheets. Screwedit to some wood strips and tem cut thin aluminum strips and secured all edges to the wood or steel. Added a few drain holes in case of a leak. Works well. Best to replace any insulation that got wet.

Good luck.
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:56 PM   #23
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Hardface, There is lots of post on this forum on this issue so I suggest searching it out. I can promise you based on our experience over the years you have a crack in the grey water tank near the front corner of the tank just under the seam. Very standard on our rigs. Save yourself some grief and replace the tank and properly support the tanks and never travel with much liquid in either black and grey tank. Don't allow your B&G tanks to get completely full. Also add additional straps to the outer belly blanket for additional support. The issues, in my opinion, is a combination of a weaker tank quality and also poor mounting design.
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Old 08-02-2018, 08:54 PM   #24
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Grey water leak update

Found the leak on the tank today, the tank is cracked. I'm trying to tell if this was an attempted repair (see attached pic) or did someone get sloppy with glue on install. Might make a difference on insurance coverage. there is this same type of glue on the other fittings as well. Thoughts? The leak is the pink area on the left side near the end of the glue.
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Old 08-02-2018, 09:03 PM   #25
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My best guess is attempted repair. Were there any signs of someone having the belly blanket off before?

One thing that puzzles me is that you stated earlier the leak started when the tank was near full. If the area you show as the source of the leak, it would leak anytime there was liquid in the tank. I can see that it would leak more when as the tank got more full due to weight of the liquid (added pressure). Just sayin'
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Old 08-02-2018, 09:12 PM   #26
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My tanks have the same yellowish glue in the same areas, likely factory install of drain pipe. Having made several tank repairs that have held up for three years and many miles, my opinion is in that location a repair is iffy, but not impossible. Would need to get that excess glue off from there. If I tried thT repair Iíd use an ABS specific repair kit. Has cleaner, glue, abs sheets and mesh cloth for curves.

Might be best in buying a new tank. Iíve pulled and reinstalled these tanks solo. Getting the pipe joints made can be tricky if not well planned out. Good luck.
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Old 08-02-2018, 10:29 PM   #27
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Well said Fred! I think it was around 2007 when they started using the yellow ABS cement at PI on assembly. Looks like hell, and some guys were pretty sloppy with it. More is always better ya know!!!
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Old 08-02-2018, 11:00 PM   #28
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I think itís been opened up before but itís never leaked a drop before I filled the tank to the brim. While Iím sure I can do the repair Or replacement I have Good Sam coverage for the tank. I will visit with repair shop and see what they say about it. Iím sure when they see the glue they will say the tanks been altered and deny coverage.
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