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Old 05-26-2013, 12:46 PM   #15
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OK here you go.

This is the type of caulking gun. Notice the notch style shaft. Is is a positive click type. Don't buy the friction style (without notches) as they wear out fast. To release pressure between uses, twist the handle and pull back.

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This is how the cut tip looks and size of hole. It's just barely cut from the end.

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This is a side view showing the small 90 degree cut back on the top side to stop the caulking from peeling up over the top.

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Good luck and happy caulking!
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:17 PM   #16
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That's the way I was taught to cut the tip and somehow forgot about it over many years.

Great info....thanks for taking the time to share with us "entry level" repair folks! Come in here and chat anytime!
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:20 AM   #17
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One last thing that I eventually figured out........do a practice run without actually running caulk to make sure you know where you are going with the gun. Gone into a corner many times and had to reposition and screwed up the flow. Is that too much think in'?
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:27 AM   #18
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I would like to be better at caulking than I am, and these tips will certainly help, but I still have a couple of questions. Are we talking about 100% silicon caulk? Probably should be mildew resistant also, right? The original question mentioned dicor, which is a lap sealant for the roof. I'm also interested in replacing the dicor around the skylight and vent covers on my fiberglass roof, so these tips would apply for that also, right? I plan on using the self leveling dicor, so maybe smoothing it out won't be necessary, but otherwise scraping the old stuff off, cleaning with alcohol and applying a bead like I would for silicon caulk.
Thanks. - John
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:24 AM   #19
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John,
Quickly as we have an appt. to make. Yes, PI says 100% pure silicon. Dicor makes all kinds of caulks and all. You use Dicor self leveling on the roof won't need any smoothing out as it does it itself. Dicor remains kinda soft and pliable, so removal of the old is not really an issue. Don't forget you could use Eternabond tape to have a more permanent seal. rockin'
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:41 AM   #20
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I disagree with PI. I think they need to re-evaluate their recommended caulk.

I will not use 100% silicone on my trailer.

There are MUCH better caulks for RV's. Proflex RV sealant is my favorite. Much better adhesion and lasts longer.
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Old 05-30-2013, 06:40 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janieD View Post
I would like to be better at caulking than I am, and these tips will certainly help, but I still have a couple of questions. Are we talking about 100% silicon caulk? Probably should be mildew resistant also, right? The original question mentioned dicor, which is a lap sealant for the roof. I'm also interested in replacing the dicor around the skylight and vent covers on my fiberglass roof, so these tips would apply for that also, right? I plan on using the self leveling dicor, so maybe smoothing it out won't be necessary, but otherwise scraping the old stuff off, cleaning with alcohol and applying a bead like I would for silicon caulk.
Thanks. - John
You have to use the right caulk for the right job.

I'd advise only using silicone where it suits it's use. Mildew resistant around plumbing fixtures and areas subject to water. That does not include exteriors. There are many caulks formulated and recommended for exterior use.

As far as technique, you have to match your prep of the caulking tube with the application. Large gaps require a larger hole cut in the tube.
Still use the rule of thumb.....less is better in the application, you can add more if your pass doesn't quite fill your gap.
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:40 PM   #22
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I tried using the Geocel Proflex on some exterior trim recently. I'm puzzled, as it has remained sort of tacky - and that was probably a month ago. It seems to have cured - that is, it doesn't scrape away, and is relatively firm. But I didn't expect the tackiness.

I think I may switch to a non-leveling Dicor - I've not used it yet, but am imagining it will be more like what the factory originally used to bed windows & trim on the exterior. The factory stuff is still somewhat pliable even after 13 years.
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:15 PM   #23
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Steve, have you tried wiping the tacky surface of the ProFlex with rubbing alcohol?
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:28 PM   #24
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Steve, have you tried wiping the tacky surface of the ProFlex with rubbing alcohol?
Nope, but I will now...
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steverino View Post
I tried using the Geocel Proflex on some exterior trim recently. I'm puzzled, as it has remained sort of tacky - and that was probably a month ago. It seems to have cured - that is, it doesn't scrape away, and is relatively firm. But I didn't expect the tackiness.

I think I may switch to a non-leveling Dicor - I've not used it yet, but am imagining it will be more like what the factory originally used to bed windows & trim on the exterior. The factory stuff is still somewhat pliable even after 13 years.
Steve,

I had a similar situation with GE II 100% silicone a couple of years back. Long story....longer...I called their hotline and the guy said normal, keep an eye on it and call us back if it doesn't get firmer in 3 months!! Anyhow, I now see their advertising on the tube...new and improved, quicker curing time. I used it and found it to cure up pretty much overnight. Just FYI. rockin'
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:28 PM   #26
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Great thread, thanks for sharing your tips/methods gentlemen!

I've done a little bit of caulking myself over the years having done most of my own home renovations so I just wanted to point out that I've had bad experience using the water or spit on finger method with anything other than latex based caulks.....was I alone in these negative experiences? LOL!

Which brings me to another question, have you guys tried using those caulking tools you see at the home stores now??? They take place of your finger in smoothing over the caulk.
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Anyhow, I cleaned my roof today, including the channels that follow the roof line on the sides as they were mucked up with algae/dirt. While doing this some of the terribly applied caulk began to come off during this cleaning, hence search on here.

Looking for any tips to removing any stubborn old caulk I might run into?
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:00 PM   #27
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There's a product called Meckanika gel caulk remover. It breaks down silicon caulking for better removal. It's at Ace and Home Depot. A tube of it for your caulking gun costs @ $16. but it works.
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